HOW TO: World's Most Expensive Jumper Cables

[sandcruiser]

now, I'm no professional, but I don't think that's how you're supposed to drive

Is your idea to have a - disconnect to prevent fire hazard? Seems like a tricky place to be opening the hood and fiddling with the battery.

 

[NLXTACY]

I also use one pair connected to the ground only soley for the purpose of disconecting the neg terminal in the event of a roll over.

I meant this

 

[MT-PTK]

I got the idea while leaning against the hood of a California Highway Patrol car.

That was you??!?!?!?

Btw, Great job with the cables!!!


William

 

[ntsqd]

I'm guessing that there is an arc welding lead type socket and plug in the ground cable to allow disconnecting the battery afer a roll.

Would've been simpler, more commonly recognized, and more robust to use a battery disconnect switch or a marine battery combiner switch, but to each their own.

 

[Spook50]

Just came across this thread. I am SO doing this once I finalize a dual battery setup.

 

[NLXTACY]

Just came across this thread. I am SO doing this once I finalize a dual battery setup.

Just to add another reason for doing so, someone's wife in the 80 section was jumping someone else and mis-wired the cables. Now he is trying to figure out all the problems that it caused.

 

[rrv333]

Big Pimping!

 

[Elbert]

at one time or maybe they still do.....l I think Snap-on and maybe others offered a similar jumper cable setup (excluding relays...etc).

 

[ntsqd]

Anderson Power Products is the mfg. of those connectors. Most of the winch kits use the 175 amp body size even though that's grossly over-driving their current rating.
Note that even within the same size of connector that they are uniquely keyed so that only like colors will mate. Can not connect a blue to a red etc.
SB Family

There is an SBE family of connectors rated up to 700 amps. These also have communications contacts in the connector.
SBE® fingerproof 2-pole connector with auxiliary contacts

What I would do, were I so inclined:
Order 2 of these: Connector, Wire/Cable - Battery and Cable Connectors - Wire Connectors - 3BY23 : Grainger Industrial Supply (2X $17.51), one of these: Connector, Cable Handle - Battery and Cable Connectors - Wire Connectors - 3BY29 : Grainger Industrial Supply ($16.90), a set of these: Booster Clamp Parrot Jaw - Battery Accessories - Automotive Electrical - 2FGD1 : Grainger Industrial Supply ($63.80), one of these: Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product ($46.44) , and 1/0 cable & lugs from my local battery shop as they supply very supple welding cable (~$3/ft for 1/0 in bulk + ~$1.25 per lug). So about $320 for everything.

The Anderson connectors are rated to have a 25lbs. to 35lbs. connect/disconnect force so I don't feel that the latch mechanism is necessary. The keyed battery switch means that the connector is dead and only I make it be live without needing a solenoid, and the switch can be positioned such that the hood need not be opened.

 

[NLXTACY]

You can get a whole kit from Galls for just over a hundy.

As far as the latch mechanism, I got it for my wife. She had a hard time connecting and disconnecting and with the latch mechanism it works easily everytime.

 

[ntsqd]

I deliberately chose the the highest quality/capability items. For just over a $100 they had to cut corners somewhere. If I'm going to go to the effort of a dedicated system I'd rather have the higher quality parts.

I wondered if the latch mechanism had a cam-in/cam-out function. Sounds like it does. that sure increases it's worth to some applications.

 

[Spook50]

Found this thread again while cleaning out my bookmarks. Looks like Wrangler no longer sells through their website, which leads me to wonder if they still have any of the products listed in the original post. Was hoping to finally do this in the spring when I get around to doing some serious improvements to my 62. Looks like that may not happen now. Bummer.

 

[NLXTACY]

Found this thread again while cleaning out my bookmarks. Looks like Wrangler no longer sells through their website, which leads me to wonder if they still have any of the products listed in the original post. Was hoping to finally do this in the spring when I get around to doing some serious improvements to my 62. Looks like that may not happen now. Bummer.

oh it’s all easily found still. I make so much of this stuff that I just take for granted that this stuff is out there.

 

[Spook50]

oh it’s all easily found still. I make so much of this stuff that I just take for granted that this stuff is out there.

I did manage to find alternatives for the 200A solenoid so far. Too bad you can't really go compact for one of those, given how the design just doesn't allow for it.

 

[NLXTACY]

I did manage to find alternatives for the 200A solenoid so far. Too bad you can't really go compact for one of those, given how the design just doesn't allow for it.

it’s just a Ford-style starter solenoid

 

[cruiserpilot]

I had full cables and plug to the rear of my 60 for years. Never used it, I had a plug out front and out
back and 16’ custom cables but removed it all mostly because the cables were huge package to
carry around for less than once a decade use. Now just regular cables. Cool to have though

 

[ntsqd]

If you buy a Ford type contactor be sure to buy a premium model. The generic models have been getting a lot of bad reports on the various Ford forums that I frequent. Some even advise buying them out of junk-yards as that is one of the best ways to avoid the products made from chinesium.

My employer makes products that I know will work well in this application and you will never wear one out. I've no idea where to buy them or what they cost although I'm sure they're nowhere near the price that Pep Boys has on the Ford part.
Example: https://www.gigavac.com/sites/default/files/catalog/spec_sheet/gx12.pdf