HOW TO: World's Most Expensive Jumper Cables

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Great set-up! The only thing is that a few places like Warn already make a set up like this, however I don't know their cost.


Zack
 
This is a very good question...

ASSUMING you don't have dual batteries...

OR you do and you still managed to kill both :hillbilly: ...

Then this will NOT work for you. The reason is the starting vehicle needs to have the negative terminal connected and the dead vehicle needs to have the negative terminal grounded somewhere OTHER than the negative terminal. So wont work.

Already thinking of a solution.....

a perko switch should do the job.



nice work joey. you should post this in the 80 section as well. they'll eat this up for sure.
 
Great set-up! The only thing is that a few places like Warn already make a set up like this, however I don't know their cost.


Zack

Yes they do, but still pricey AND it doesn't have an activation switch or solenoid.
 
a perko switch should do the job.



nice work joey. you should post this in the 80 section as well. they'll eat this up for sure.


ding ding ding! Yeah I actually did this for the 80s but I was in the 60 section when I posted it up and didn't realize it until I already posted. Oh well. :meh:
 
I must be a red neck.

I used a pair of 4gauge jumper cables $45.00.
I cut the end off of one end and used the Glad Hands ($25.00). Glad Hands are very similar to the red connectors you have but without the cam lock mechnism.

I have my winch wired with Glad Hands ($25.00 x 2 ) in such a way that I can unplug it and plug in the jumper cables without ever lifting the hood.

For less than $150 it is done. I have two of my vehicles set up that way and will be working on the third vehicle.
 
D'ANIMAL that's all it is. Although I don't have a winch so I needed to start from zero. Also, I wanted to be able to turn off and on. But yes, it can definitely be done on the cheap.
 
Not to be a kill-joy, but:

Option No. 1

Option No. 2

Option No. 3


I like would make two suggestions:

1) Add the LED to their side of the solenoid, but make it green and properly polarized. Then also add a red LED and install it reversed polarity. If the green lights up you know that they connected their end correctly. If the red lights up you know that they did not.

2) One of these fuses for when you, or they, or both brain fade.
 
Not to be a kill-joy, but:

Option No. 1

Option No. 2

Option No. 3


I like would make two suggestions:

No no no, don't worry about it at all. My system is closer to option 3 but with 1/0 cable. Plus none of those allow you to turn it off or on :grinpimp:

Mine is expensive only because I was making from scratch and I just ordered parts, some of which weren't used.
 
I like would make two suggestions:

1) Add the LED to their side of the solenoid, but make it green and properly polarized. Then also add a red LED and install it reversed polarity. If the green lights up you know that they connected their end correctly. If the red lights up you know that they did not.

2) One of these fuses for when you, or they, or both brain fade.

I will be experimenting with LEDs but that helps, thanks. As far as fuses, I decided against it because I've never seen a set of jumper cables WITH a fuse. Figured there was a reason for it. Not sure what the amperage possibility is to jump a car but I am estimating it could be over 400A which is why I wanted to make sure I used a HD solenoid capable of 1000A of in-rush.
 
I got the idea while leaning against the hood of a California Highway Patrol car. :cheers:
Where all good ideas tend to come from ;)


Why only 1/0?? I would have gone bigger. Chicks dig big Cables..
 
I'm going to be going up to mammoth for some mountain biking. My parents have a condo up there. I'd welcome any cruisers to join me whether it's winter or summer. We could get an FJ snow party goin.
 
My thinking on the fuse is that if you get reverse polarity and don't catch it b4 turning on the relay that it will blow instead of a battery. Put two of them in parallel is 400 amps isn't enough. Fuses don't pop instantaneously, they do allow for some in-rush current b4 blowing. I was recently looking into this for another purpose and found that most mfg's list current vs. time blow rates.
 
Well 99.999% of the time it will be me connecting the cables. One side is fool proof with the quick disconnects. The other is a freaking red and black clamp. Well I don't drink so I would have to be just plain stupid to cross cables and well at that point I would deserve the damage.

But I am already working on polarity LEDS JUST in case :p
 
I've connected things backwards. Had to have a 2M ham radio repaired b/c of that. And that was after studying the truck to make sure that I got it right! (Dual batteries next to each other, but wouldn't you know it, one was reversed.)

I have those connectors on the winch for the Dune Buggy (5.38's!), I know that you aren't going to screw that up. It's the other end that isn't always obvious.
 
HAM is on my short list. But I know too little to dive in. So for now I will be doing a CB. Stupid simple, quick, to the point and I dont need an FCC license.
 
I must be a red neck.

I used a pair of 4gauge jumper cables $45.00.
I cut the end off of one end and used the Glad Hands ($25.00). Glad Hands are very similar to the red connectors you have but without the cam lock mechnism.

I have my winch wired with Glad Hands ($25.00 x 2 ) in such a way that I can unplug it and plug in the jumper cables without ever lifting the hood.

For less than $150 it is done. I have two of my vehicles set up that way and will be working on the third vehicle.



I got the idea while leaning against the hood of a California Highway Patrol car. :cheers:

I was thinking more of how an electric fork lift charges, or a block heater for some diesels. ive pondered the idea for a while just never did it.

guess now that all my stereo stuff was stolen the other day its a good time to go ahead and re do it all. (i also have a short now someplace... cocksuckers....)
 

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