How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)

[dag4566]

Mine was sealed and JBL in a 2001.

 

[rrc swb]

I just replaced my worn out and busted sub-woofer speaker and have a quick tip.

I was able to remove the subwoofer's enclosure "ribs" in less than 5 minutes using regular pliers.

Just grab the "rib" and turn. It will snap right off and leave a clean flat surface (not that it matters ). If some break off too high, just use a razon blade (and proper PPE).

I have the ML (2) two wires setup and hooked up the Skar EVL-65 D4.

 

[lesgarten]

I just replaced my worn out and busted sub-woofer speaker and have a quick tip.

I was able to remove the subwoofer's enclosure "ribs" in less than 5 minutes using regular pliers.

Just grab the "rib" and turn. It will snap right off and leave a clean flat surface (not that it matters ). If some break off too high, just use a razon blade (and proper PPE).

I have the ML (2) two wires setup and hooked up the Skar EVL-65 D4.

How does the Skar sound?

 

[rrc swb]

How does the Skar sound?

I haven't mounted it yet... I'll do that after work today.

 

[rrc swb]

How does the Skar sound?

It sounds better than stock crappy one.

But don't expect...

I give it a 6/10... or MEH!

 

[lesgarten]

It sounds better than stock crappy one.

But don't expect...

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I give it a 6/10... or MEH!

How ya think it sounds compared to a non rotted stocker?

 

[rrc swb]

How ya think it sounds compared to a non rotted stocker?

Don't know. My subwoofer was bad since I got the truck.

But the other variant is the Tesla radio I have... That might be the issue.

 

[SmoothOperator]

Hey guys, have been reading the whole 16 pages of this thread and am still uncertain about wiring. 2006 LC and I have four wires coming from my stock amp to my sub. I picked up a Kicker 6 3/4” 4ohm dual voice coil sub to install. As I understand it, the original sub was around 8 ohms, which is what I want to get with the new kicker. I’ve seen diagrams of wiring in series to achieve 8 ohms from a 4ohm dvc sub, but they’re all two wire setups. Anyone know how to achieve 8 ohms with my four wire set up LC? Thanks guys…

 

[ramangain]

If and only if the stock amp allows bridging of the two sub channels, just wire the dvc sub in series between + of one channel and - of the other channel.

 

[SmoothOperator]

If and only if the stock amp allows bridging of the two sub channels, just wire the dvc sub in series between + of one channel and - of the other channel.

I have no idea if it allows it or not

 

[ramangain]

Easy enough to test though. If you're worried about it, try that method across a 100 ohm resistor and see if you get any voltage drop across the resistor at low volume levels. If so, the amp can run bridged. If a fuse pops, it cannot.

 

[dperque]

Late to the party but thought I would throw in my experience for anyone still looking at options.

My sub was barely outputting anything since I got the LX a few months back, and I assumed that the foam was ripped. I opened the rear panel and found that the sub was fully intact, so I decided to replace it.

I got the Skar EVL65 D4 Subwoofer for $52, some foam weatherstrip from Lowes for $3 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-17-ft-x-1-2-in-Gray-Window-Seal-Foam-Window-Weatherstrip/1096045), and I used some wiring/connectors/screws that I already had.

I found that the easiest and cleanest way to remove the waffle/grid to make room is to x-cut the corners to separate the grid (I used a butane hot cutter but a dremel would be fine) and then use pliers to snap out the now unsupported strips.

I then wired it up to the 8ohm config shown a few pages back (red to +, black to opposite side -, jumper from - on red side to + on black side). I eyeballed and cut out the weather stripping and wrapped it longways (sticky side facing inwards instead of down) since it is much easier to roll that way. I used the XL stuff, but medium/large would have been fine. I used 1 inch torx wood screws to mount it, but a little longer might have been better. I probably only had 1/4" of grab. I didn't screw through the foam, but pushed the foam inwards, dropped the screw in, then tightened. I then added some small sections of weather stripping to the back of the enclosure, and reassembled everything. I never experienced a working stock sub, but this is plenty powerful for me. No rattle anywhere. Definitely worth the effort if you need a full sub replacement.

Thanks for this. I just replace mine with a DVC Kicker someone referenced in another thread, used the foam, etc. , but can you elaborate a little on the grill/waffle part? any pics? I used snips, dremel to remove a lot of the plastic, but I feel like it still touches too close to the speaker surround when installed and frankly, when clicked back in place, it seems to sit away from the window a little. I've been afraid to get too aggressive on the grill since it's the structure for the fabric.
Did you remove the black waffle from the tan/grey piece that holds it on? what was left of the black waffle when finally back installed? Any pics of what the grill/waffle looked like before reinstalling?
thanks!

 

[dperque]

I haven't mounted it yet... I'll do that after work today.

How did this go with the black grill/assembly kind of not able to sit back on the speaker/box properly? any pics? I just did this same set up with a kicker and removed most of the waffle part, but still feels like it presses against the top of the speaker causing the whole part to barely catch the holes and you can tell there's pressure for it to pop off.
Otherwise, it sounds great.

 

[rrc swb]

How did this go with the black grill/assembly kind of not able to sit back on the speaker/box properly? any pics? I just did this same set up with a kicker and removed most of the waffle part, but still feels like it presses against the top of the speaker causing the whole part to barely catch the holes and you can tell there's pressure for it to pop off.
Otherwise, it sounds great.

I used a box cutter to remove the ribs. I tried to do it with a dremel and it took twice the time.

Let me find pics and I'll edit my post.

 

[dperque]

I used a box cutter to remove the ribs. I tried to do it with a dremel and it took twice the time.

Let me find pics and I'll edit my post.

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Thanks, but I meant on the front. My kicker fit fine without removing anything inside the box, but because the aftermarket speaker sits further out than the factory one did, Im having trouble getting the whole assembly back together. Does that make sense?

 

[rrc swb]

Thanks, but I meant on the front. My kicker fit fine without removing anything inside the box, but because the aftermarket speaker sits further out than the factory one did, Im having trouble getting the whole assembly back together. Does that make sense?

Oh! Yeah now I see what you mean.

I didn't have any issues with the factory "grill". The Skar doesn't stick out much.

 

[Balrog]

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This looks like about the only solution for 16 ohm ML amp - 2x speakers with two 4 ohm coils. Shallow Mount Component Subwoofers at Crutchfield - https://www.crutchfield.com/S-rjlopUBe7lv/cpg/Shallow-Mount-Subwoofers.html?&pg=2

 

[arkmm]

Just take the factory amp out and replace it with a 5 channel amp

 

[Balrog]

.

 

[skiwpk]

I have a complete Pioneer sub assembly from an LC (I believe 2003) if anyone is looking to buy. Bought it for my 06 LX from a part-out here on Mud before realizing that LC and LX sub components aren’t interchangeable.