Thanks for this! However, I was under the impression that the SKAR sub was already 8-ohm, at least from my searches. Am I missing something?
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (4 Viewers)
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I have no background in audio/wiring - so I wouldn't know. I just went with everyone's suggestion and purchased the 4ohm 6.5" SKAR subwoofer and wired it in the 8 ohm configuration. The new sound has been great besides the vibrations from all the power now. I purchased some dynamat to try and alleviate that.
Thank you so much for this diagram @d4nvu Where did you dremel the sub box? Around the edge of edge where you applied the foam tape or to the rear of the box b/c the new speaker is too deep?
I dremeled the rear of the box and it fit without a spacer. If you use the spacer you might get away with not having to dremel. I would double check. You will need longer screws (at least 1") as the OEM screws are too short. I just used some drywall screws that I had on hand. Good luck!
where do you plan on dynamatting?
Nice writeup. I also don't know if mine is working either. I'm not tone deaf and have a great subwoofer (Carver Sunfire) in my house, so I know what a good one sounds like, but I've never head it in my car. When I bought my 2000 LX470 in 2014, the original stereo had been replaced. I recently had CarToys install a Kenwood dmx4707 stereo that supports Apple CarPlay and a backup camera (real reason to replace the stereo) but didn't ask them about the subwoofer, duh! When I go back in to get the backup camera installed I'll ask them about it.
Late to the party but thought I would throw in my experience for anyone still looking at options.
My sub was barely outputting anything since I got the LX a few months back, and I assumed that the foam was ripped. I opened the rear panel and found that the sub was fully intact, so I decided to replace it.
I got the Skar EVL65 D4 Subwoofer for $52, some foam weatherstrip from Lowes for $3 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-17-ft-x-1-2-in-Gray-Window-Seal-Foam-Window-Weatherstrip/1096045), and I used some wiring/connectors/screws that I already had.
I found that the easiest and cleanest way to remove the waffle/grid to make room is to x-cut the corners to separate the grid (I used a butane hot cutter but a dremel would be fine) and then use pliers to snap out the now unsupported strips.
I then wired it up to the 8ohm config shown a few pages back (red to +, black to opposite side -, jumper from - on red side to + on black side). I eyeballed and cut out the weather stripping and wrapped it longways (sticky side facing inwards instead of down) since it is much easier to roll that way. I used the XL stuff, but medium/large would have been fine. I used 1 inch torx wood screws to mount it, but a little longer might have been better. I probably only had 1/4" of grab. I didn't screw through the foam, but pushed the foam inwards, dropped the screw in, then tightened. I then added some small sections of weather stripping to the back of the enclosure, and reassembled everything. I never experienced a working stock sub, but this is plenty powerful for me. No rattle anywhere. Definitely worth the effort if you need a full sub replacement.
My sub was barely outputting anything since I got the LX a few months back, and I assumed that the foam was ripped. I opened the rear panel and found that the sub was fully intact, so I decided to replace it.
I got the Skar EVL65 D4 Subwoofer for $52, some foam weatherstrip from Lowes for $3 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-17-ft-x-1-2-in-Gray-Window-Seal-Foam-Window-Weatherstrip/1096045), and I used some wiring/connectors/screws that I already had.
I found that the easiest and cleanest way to remove the waffle/grid to make room is to x-cut the corners to separate the grid (I used a butane hot cutter but a dremel would be fine) and then use pliers to snap out the now unsupported strips.
I then wired it up to the 8ohm config shown a few pages back (red to +, black to opposite side -, jumper from - on red side to + on black side). I eyeballed and cut out the weather stripping and wrapped it longways (sticky side facing inwards instead of down) since it is much easier to roll that way. I used the XL stuff, but medium/large would have been fine. I used 1 inch torx wood screws to mount it, but a little longer might have been better. I probably only had 1/4" of grab. I didn't screw through the foam, but pushed the foam inwards, dropped the screw in, then tightened. I then added some small sections of weather stripping to the back of the enclosure, and reassembled everything. I never experienced a working stock sub, but this is plenty powerful for me. No rattle anywhere. Definitely worth the effort if you need a full sub replacement.
Awesome write up - I did almost the exact same repair. There are certain songs where the bass hits really hard and sounds great, but I would say the majority of the time the bass just sounds off. I don't know exactly how to describe it, but it just doesn't sound right. Any thoughts on how to address? Anyone else experiencing something similar after replacing with Skar?
That's rad - How do I determine polarization if all else is stock?
If you swapped the + and - wires. Try the other way and see if it sounds better.
OK - awesome. Thank you I'll give that a shot.
Mine sounds pretty good, but it definitely has more punch than kick. Doesn't compare to my 10" box sub in my living room. I'm interested to see how switching the polarity will affect it.
GTV
SILVER Star
I just finished installing the Kicker 6 3/4” sub in my ‘07 LC. Instead of hacking up the sub box I first removed the top locating ring from the original sub and got some butyl type sealant.
I put the seal on the underside of the ring and installed it into the sub box. This filled the gap and was flush with the surface.
Then I simply centered the speaker in the opening, drilled 8 7/32” holes and drove in #8 1 1/4” screws. The seal on the driver and the original foam sealed the top of the ring. Easy peasy.
I put the seal on the underside of the ring and installed it into the sub box. This filled the gap and was flush with the surface.
Then I simply centered the speaker in the opening, drilled 8 7/32” holes and drove in #8 1 1/4” screws. The seal on the driver and the original foam sealed the top of the ring. Easy peasy.
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I replaced my sub with the following, wired to 8ohms. The outer diameter is about 6 1/2" and the depth was just right.
Bazooka 6” 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil Replacement Woofer (WF641.5DV)
It was way better than nothing, which is what I had, but it wasn't quite right and was really moving a lot. I cut out the waffling inside the back of the enclosure and glued down some strips of dense 1/4" thick closed-cell weather stripping. I figured that would tamp down the air and sound waves from bouncing off the back of the enclosure and interfering with the speaker.Amazon product ASIN B07VJYY5GM
I also went the extra mile and covered the outside of the enclosure with Kilmat to cut down on vibration. The sub now functions correctly and sounds great (to me).
Greetings.
My 2004 LX470 with Mark Levinson Sub-woofer was toast. On page 8 of this thread the Pyle sub on amazon (Amazon product ASIN B00079LOTU) was recommended as drop in replacement for 2004 LX470. I bought it and returned it. It was 1/4" too large in diameter for my stock sub box and the holes did not line up. I suspect something has changed on the speaker since that post was written, or somehow my box is not stock??
I did recone it myself successfully with this kit from Simply Speakers (2000-2009 Lexus LX470 Mark Levinson COMPLETE System Speaker Repair Kit FSK-LX470 - https://www.simplyspeakers.com/2000-2009-lexus-lx4700-speaker-foam-edge-repair-kit-fsk-lx470.html). It took several hours, but was straightforward to do.
The resistance of my stock speaker was ~13 ohms.
My 2004 LX470 with Mark Levinson Sub-woofer was toast. On page 8 of this thread the Pyle sub on amazon (Amazon product ASIN B00079LOTU) was recommended as drop in replacement for 2004 LX470. I bought it and returned it. It was 1/4" too large in diameter for my stock sub box and the holes did not line up. I suspect something has changed on the speaker since that post was written, or somehow my box is not stock??
I did recone it myself successfully with this kit from Simply Speakers (2000-2009 Lexus LX470 Mark Levinson COMPLETE System Speaker Repair Kit FSK-LX470 - https://www.simplyspeakers.com/2000-2009-lexus-lx4700-speaker-foam-edge-repair-kit-fsk-lx470.html). It took several hours, but was straightforward to do.
The resistance of my stock speaker was ~13 ohms.
GTV
SILVER Star
I'm very happy with it, has enough bass to vibrate bits of the interior if I want it to.
Hi!
In my 2006 HDJ100 I have a Pioneer sub? I haven’t found anything on it on IH8MUD?
as you can see, the cabinet is ported from factory?
I’m contemplatinh putting a SKAR unit in it, and a bigger amp at some point, but I’m a bit curious about how it will sound in a ported cabinet...?
In my 2006 HDJ100 I have a Pioneer sub? I haven’t found anything on it on IH8MUD?
as you can see, the cabinet is ported from factory?
I’m contemplatinh putting a SKAR unit in it, and a bigger amp at some point, but I’m a bit curious about how it will sound in a ported cabinet...?
