steffan
SILVER Star
I've done two of them now with my 1/2" wratchet so
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
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steffan
SILVER Star
steffan said:
Nice, thanks for the info.
3/4" here. Many have snapped 1/2" gear, but YMMV. HF has all the 3/4" bars & sockets, & you may need to internet order if not in store.
This did the trick for me:
HF torque bar
socket set
This did the trick for me:
HF torque bar
socket set
alia176
SILVER Star
What ever you end up using, just don't let your breaker bar hit the chassis rail. As long as the bar is secured to the chassis rail, you should be ok with probably either the 3/4" or 1/2" bar. I made the mistake of letting my bar smack the rail and it broke!
Just finished the majority of this job this morning..
-Had to chisel out two fan clutch nuts due to stripping.. that was fun
-Broke a Made in USA Craftsman 14mm deep socket on the flywheel trying to get the crank bolt off that way
-Instead I bungied tight my 3/4 HF breaker bar with 30mm impact socket to the frame rail and bumped the starter and heard a big KER PLUNK and the crank bolt was loosened... wasn't quite as scary as I thought going in though gives your the nerves for a second or two haha.
-I had no issue getting my 7 oil pump cover screws out.. got the PH3 Bosch bits from Lowes as another user suggested.. tapped them in with a hammer 20 or so times to be sure put the 1/4" socket on and held it tight in with right hand and loosened slowly with left.. heard the CLICK CLICK which means the screws broke loose.. stopped and took it the rest of the way out with just the Bosch bit by hand.
-Kept my new oil pump o-ring in with some new oil .. didn't put any FIPG or anything else on.. hopefully I don't regret that
Tightened new torx screws to 8lb ft as much as I could by feel 
-Crank seal with 2" piece of PVC and hammer
-Need to sand two spots on the crank with 1000-1500grit sandpaper to make sure its all smooth.
-Plan on buying another quality 14mm deep socket for tightening the crank bolt back to spec. I figured the bolt was really tight after being in their since new and the flywheel thing for loosening probably wasn't going to go that easy but torquing the bolt back down again shouldn't break another socket
It was mostly a sucky job because of the stupid fan clutch nuts and not just bumping the stater first but o well live and learn.. have to wait til Monday to finish up since no stores are open to get new nuts/sandpaper/socket
-Had to chisel out two fan clutch nuts due to stripping.. that was fun
-Broke a Made in USA Craftsman 14mm deep socket on the flywheel trying to get the crank bolt off that way
-Instead I bungied tight my 3/4 HF breaker bar with 30mm impact socket to the frame rail and bumped the starter and heard a big KER PLUNK and the crank bolt was loosened... wasn't quite as scary as I thought going in though gives your the nerves for a second or two haha.
-I had no issue getting my 7 oil pump cover screws out.. got the PH3 Bosch bits from Lowes as another user suggested.. tapped them in with a hammer 20 or so times to be sure put the 1/4" socket on and held it tight in with right hand and loosened slowly with left.. heard the CLICK CLICK which means the screws broke loose.. stopped and took it the rest of the way out with just the Bosch bit by hand.
-Kept my new oil pump o-ring in with some new oil .. didn't put any FIPG or anything else on.. hopefully I don't regret that
Tightened new torx screws to 8lb ft as much as I could by feel -Crank seal with 2" piece of PVC and hammer
-Need to sand two spots on the crank with 1000-1500grit sandpaper to make sure its all smooth.
-Plan on buying another quality 14mm deep socket for tightening the crank bolt back to spec. I figured the bolt was really tight after being in their since new and the flywheel thing for loosening probably wasn't going to go that easy but torquing the bolt back down again shouldn't break another socket
It was mostly a sucky job because of the stupid fan clutch nuts and not just bumping the stater first but o well live and learn.. have to wait til Monday to finish up since no stores are open to get new nuts/sandpaper/socket
the nose.. i assume .. the shiny part sticking out after the pulley is off
I will have pictures on Monday after I start putting it all back together right now its all apart waiting to put the crank seal on until I can take care of the bumps.
the two spots look like small surface scratches but if you push hard with your finger you can feel the difference from the rest of the shaft.. Others have had to sand the "nose" due to little chips/scratches.
Well I got everything buttoned up.. crank bolt torqued down using a 14mm on the flywheel.. 300 plus a little more.
I have one problem though.. my one thread post for the clutch fan will not let the nut thread on.. probably from chiseling the one nut off I screwed something up.
How hard is it to change the threaded posts that the clutch fan goes onto?
I guess they are M8 1.25 thread pitch posts.. but how long?
Can I start the truck to make sure everything works with just 3 nuts holding it all together.. I figure should be fine to make sure it runs ok right?
I included some pictures
UPDATE: Truck started and ran fine.. oil pressure is normal.. time will tell on the oil leaks
NOTE: If you were as unfortunate as I to ruin the threads on one of the threaded studs the fan clutch nuts ride on you can get the replacement from here.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=h3ofjx
Click on "Self locking studs - thread lengths are different) then pick the "Metric" category from the left side
and choose the M8 35mm long stud which matches the factory pretty much ($0.98 a piece)
I have one problem though.. my one thread post for the clutch fan will not let the nut thread on.. probably from chiseling the one nut off I screwed something up.
How hard is it to change the threaded posts that the clutch fan goes onto?
I guess they are M8 1.25 thread pitch posts.. but how long?
Can I start the truck to make sure everything works with just 3 nuts holding it all together.. I figure should be fine to make sure it runs ok right?
I included some pictures
UPDATE: Truck started and ran fine.. oil pressure is normal.. time will tell on the oil leaks
NOTE: If you were as unfortunate as I to ruin the threads on one of the threaded studs the fan clutch nuts ride on you can get the replacement from here.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=h3ofjx
Click on "Self locking studs - thread lengths are different) then pick the "Metric" category from the left side
and choose the M8 35mm long stud which matches the factory pretty much ($0.98 a piece)
Last edited:
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
Hey guys, I am getting ready to tackle this mini job, just gots quick question. I just ordered all the gaskets/seals and was wondering if there was a o-ring or a gasket in this location. I have a pic I stoled from timer00 of the area I am talking about. It's on the # 1 oil pan:
x2. IIRC, there's an aluminum or copper crush washer behind the plug you're referring to.
Well I have driven 15-20 miles now and have been leak free as far as I can tell.. I cleaned off the residual that squeezed out initially and am driving the truck today so will be able to tell if there is any more seep. The oil galley plug looks to be leaking as Kernal said because the residual oil that squeezed out of the oil pump cover area covers that area in oil when its leaking and its hard to soak it up from the "groove" area where that plug is.
Nice detail bruddah! Mahalo for the effort!
redeye
SILVER Star
So, is there a gasket behind that large hex plug? I've got leaks from the same areas on both my 80's and want to order all the appropriate parts.
Blackdog
"Y'all smell that?"
Wait and see....
I just did this job two weeks ago. This thread was CRUCIAL to my success. Thanks for all the info everybody put into this DIY GUIDE. My engine looked far worse than these pix. My suggestion is wait until after you replace your oil cover gasket and front main seal before you even think of opening that plug. You will most likely find that you have resolved your leaks without going deeper than you need to. My project was super smooth, but go into this with the expectation of stripping a cover screw. Be prepared and take your time.
I just did this job two weeks ago. This thread was CRUCIAL to my success. Thanks for all the info everybody put into this DIY GUIDE. My engine looked far worse than these pix. My suggestion is wait until after you replace your oil cover gasket and front main seal before you even think of opening that plug. You will most likely find that you have resolved your leaks without going deeper than you need to. My project was super smooth, but go into this with the expectation of stripping a cover screw. Be prepared and take your time.
Blackdog
"Y'all smell that?"
Wait and see....
I just did this job two weeks ago. This thread was CRUCIAL to my success. Thanks for all the info everybody put into this DIY GUIDE. My engine looked far worse than these pix. My suggestion is wait until after you replace your oil cover gasket and front main seal before you even think of opening that plug. You will most likely find that you have resolved your leaks without going deeper than you need to. My project was super smooth, but go into this with the expectation of stripping a cover screw. Be prepared and take your time.
PS
Landtank's rope method for tightening the crank bolt is the magic bullet
I just did this job two weeks ago. This thread was CRUCIAL to my success. Thanks for all the info everybody put into this DIY GUIDE. My engine looked far worse than these pix. My suggestion is wait until after you replace your oil cover gasket and front main seal before you even think of opening that plug. You will most likely find that you have resolved your leaks without going deeper than you need to. My project was super smooth, but go into this with the expectation of stripping a cover screw. Be prepared and take your time.
PS
Landtank's rope method for tightening the crank bolt is the magic bullet
cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
Well, this job ranks as one of the crapiest jobs you'll have to do eventually on an 80. By no means is the techincal aspect of the job difficult, but the little bugger screws are a pain in the arse! The hardest part about the job in my experience is the 4 bolts on the fan/clutch and these 7 little sh@t screws from hell. I was 3 for 3 from the start, then ended up stripping the last 4.
Well, luckily my pops came over and helped me drill the last 4 screws and then used a screw extractor attached to a vise grip. Done! POPs is the man, saved my ass again.
Here are some random pics of the job, I haven't buttoned up everything quite yet. I need to order dizzy o ring as mine is leaking bad. And also will be ordering 4 new fan/clutch bolts as one got stripped while removing it. So the 80 will be down for a week, oh well.. Pics:
Old O-ring/seal, you can def. see some flat spots:
One of the 4 screw we had to drill and extract out:
Clean oil pump cover:
O-ring installed, tapping in the new crankshaft seal using the old one as seating tool:
Well, luckily my pops came over and helped me drill the last 4 screws and then used a screw extractor attached to a vise grip. Done! POPs is the man, saved my ass again.
Here are some random pics of the job, I haven't buttoned up everything quite yet. I need to order dizzy o ring as mine is leaking bad. And also will be ordering 4 new fan/clutch bolts as one got stripped while removing it. So the 80 will be down for a week, oh well.. Pics:
Old O-ring/seal, you can def. see some flat spots:
One of the 4 screw we had to drill and extract out:
Clean oil pump cover:
O-ring installed, tapping in the new crankshaft seal using the old one as seating tool:
Last edited:
Finished mine.
Great write-up and thread. This was very valuable for my own oil pump seal replacement. My experience:
- My Craftsman 14mm deep wall socket cracked and went flying off the torque converter bolt when I was using it to prevent engine rotation.
- I used the starter-bump method to break the crank pulley bolt free
- 1st 4 screws wouldn’t budge. Interestingly, I stopped heating them and 2 of the remaining 3 came out using the philips bit. Maybe the heat expanded the bolts?
- Had to remove the fan shroud to get the drill on the last 2 bolts. Didn’t remove the battery or battery tray to do it but wish I had.
- Left-handed 7/64 drill bit didn’t budge any remaining bolt. Same goes for Ryobi #1 Screw Extractor.
- Got the rest out using Grabit #2 and #3 screw removers. Although advertised as reusable, they were 1 and done for me.
- A 2” PVC coupling was perfect to install the front crank seal.
- I tried using a tree saver strap to hold the crank pulley while torqueing it. No dice; it would slip before tightening. A mountain bike tube around the pulley and the strap over that did the trick.
- Couldn’t get the fan shroud back in and aligned properly. Kept trying. And trying. Removed the battery and battery tray and slipped it right in. [sigh]
Great write-up and thread. This was very valuable for my own oil pump seal replacement. My experience:
- My Craftsman 14mm deep wall socket cracked and went flying off the torque converter bolt when I was using it to prevent engine rotation.
- I used the starter-bump method to break the crank pulley bolt free
- 1st 4 screws wouldn’t budge. Interestingly, I stopped heating them and 2 of the remaining 3 came out using the philips bit. Maybe the heat expanded the bolts?
- Had to remove the fan shroud to get the drill on the last 2 bolts. Didn’t remove the battery or battery tray to do it but wish I had.
- Left-handed 7/64 drill bit didn’t budge any remaining bolt. Same goes for Ryobi #1 Screw Extractor.
- Got the rest out using Grabit #2 and #3 screw removers. Although advertised as reusable, they were 1 and done for me.
- A 2” PVC coupling was perfect to install the front crank seal.
- I tried using a tree saver strap to hold the crank pulley while torqueing it. No dice; it would slip before tightening. A mountain bike tube around the pulley and the strap over that did the trick.
- Couldn’t get the fan shroud back in and aligned properly. Kept trying. And trying. Removed the battery and battery tray and slipped it right in. [sigh]
