How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Very nice video,, thanks for taking the time out ,,,, much appreciated.
CRUISER TIME
You are very welcome. Glad it was helpful! We have to stick together; this forum is a great resource. Take Care, Clay
Just wanted to add my .02 on this job. The starter bump with a 3/4 breaker bar and socket worked like a charm as did using a 14 mm impact socket on the flywheel to tighten the crank bolt. That crank bolt is huge at 31 mm in diameter (shown next to a 8 mm bolt)!
I removed most of the oil pump cover screws with a Milwaukee M12 impact driver. It worked really well. One screw was being stubborn and I hammered in a PH3 bit and used an 18" long breaker bar to back it out. There is a lot of room between the oil pump cover and radiator to swing a hammer. The breaker bar worked well and I wouldn't buy a compact impact driver just for this job, but it is a great tool to have.
My cover needed a little lapping. I used 400, 1000 and 1500 grit paper. I should have spent more time on 400 ( or even 320) before moving up in grit. I used new torx drive flat head screws from 1fzfephh.com and a Wiha torque screwdriver to torque each screw to 50 inch pounds (max setting on driver). I don't think I could have turned the driver much more, but I would have run them to 60 or 70 inch pounds if I could. I also added a little blue loctite to each screw for extra insurance.
My largest torque wrench only goes to 250 ft lbs. so I made up a 14 inch extension at a friends shop. I still had to set the wrench to 192 ft lbs. I should have made an 18 inch or longer extension, but it still worked out fine.
I removed most of the oil pump cover screws with a Milwaukee M12 impact driver. It worked really well. One screw was being stubborn and I hammered in a PH3 bit and used an 18" long breaker bar to back it out. There is a lot of room between the oil pump cover and radiator to swing a hammer. The breaker bar worked well and I wouldn't buy a compact impact driver just for this job, but it is a great tool to have.
My cover needed a little lapping. I used 400, 1000 and 1500 grit paper. I should have spent more time on 400 ( or even 320) before moving up in grit. I used new torx drive flat head screws from 1fzfephh.com and a Wiha torque screwdriver to torque each screw to 50 inch pounds (max setting on driver). I don't think I could have turned the driver much more, but I would have run them to 60 or 70 inch pounds if I could. I also added a little blue loctite to each screw for extra insurance.
My largest torque wrench only goes to 250 ft lbs. so I made up a 14 inch extension at a friends shop. I still had to set the wrench to 192 ft lbs. I should have made an 18 inch or longer extension, but it still worked out fine.
Just completed this repair. Did the crank seal and oil pump seal, although once I got into it I could see that my leak was actually the crank seal. The oil pump was not leaking, but I changed it anyway since I was in there.
Took about 3.5 hours and I'm slow. This included degreasing the bottom of the engine when done. I did the starter bump, impact socket on the flywheel, and hammered in #3 bit tricks in this thread. All screws came out readily. Torqued the crank bolt back down with a Harbor Freight torque wrench, and had to stand on the passenger frame rail to get enough leverage. Used the replacement screws from 1FZEPHH, although the screws I took out were immaculate. The video helped immensely.
This is how I felt when I was done...
Took about 3.5 hours and I'm slow. This included degreasing the bottom of the engine when done. I did the starter bump, impact socket on the flywheel, and hammered in #3 bit tricks in this thread. All screws came out readily. Torqued the crank bolt back down with a Harbor Freight torque wrench, and had to stand on the passenger frame rail to get enough leverage. Used the replacement screws from 1FZEPHH, although the screws I took out were immaculate. The video helped immensely.
This is how I felt when I was done...
30mm crank bolt right?
And what's up with that last paragraph? You increased the ft lbs of your torque wrench by adding an extension?
My radiator is shot & oil pump seal is leaking. Hope my little buddy WOB will come over and help.
My first tech post in recent memory, hoped you n00bs enjoyed it.
yes, 30mm socket for the crank bolt. i think you're confusing the "extension" with socket extensions. he's referring to a homemade extension than lengthens the moment arm of the torque wrench.
I made an extension that increases the length from the head of the torque wrench to the socket. It effectively gives you a higher output force for a given input force.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm
It was fairly easy as I have friends with a machine shop and I'm not qualified to run any of their equipment so I brought donuts and supervised.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm
It was fairly easy as I have friends with a machine shop and I'm not qualified to run any of their equipment so I brought donuts and supervised.
Last edited:
Just wanted to add that I did this a couple weeks ago and no leaks... even after a night of mudding and offroading. IHATEMUD, really, but sometimes the woman wants to git-it! I wont bore everyone with the details of my experience since nothing particularly different that what other folks have experienced happened to me. ... it was a 4-5 hour job that took me 3 days. Go ahead and do Dizzy o ring while you are addressing leaks.
My contribution:
With the breaker bar taped to the frame rail and socket on the crank pully bolt the starter didnt quite have enough umph(technical term) to break the bolt loose... So I let the breaker bar hang don from the frame about 8 inches then hit the starter... the extra momentum and shock was able to break it loose.
I used some urethane bushing lube to hold the rubber o ring in place.
I added a super thin bead of black RTV around the outer edge of the oil pump cover to add as an extra layer of leak protection... and I do mean a super skinny bead so it wouldnt actually squish onto the o ring when compressed.
I used factory phillips screws... and torquing them to the 8-12 ft lbs(dont recall which) someone else had posted it did feel as though the heads might strip if I went any further... I dont anticipate the need for aftermarket screws really, but if you plan on keeping the 80 for a long time or doing some other work on the front of the engine torx or hex will be easier to remove down the road.
My contribution:
With the breaker bar taped to the frame rail and socket on the crank pully bolt the starter didnt quite have enough umph(technical term) to break the bolt loose... So I let the breaker bar hang don from the frame about 8 inches then hit the starter... the extra momentum and shock was able to break it loose.
I used some urethane bushing lube to hold the rubber o ring in place.
I added a super thin bead of black RTV around the outer edge of the oil pump cover to add as an extra layer of leak protection... and I do mean a super skinny bead so it wouldnt actually squish onto the o ring when compressed.
I used factory phillips screws... and torquing them to the 8-12 ft lbs(dont recall which) someone else had posted it did feel as though the heads might strip if I went any further... I dont anticipate the need for aftermarket screws really, but if you plan on keeping the 80 for a long time or doing some other work on the front of the engine torx or hex will be easier to remove down the road.
Just finished this job, many thanks to all who have posted here. I was using the job as an excuse to buy tools (42" breaker bar, 30 mm & 14 mm impact sockets, Makita impact driver, 3/4" torque wrench, #2 phillips bits) and putting off the repair until I started noticing the 80's rods rattling when I started it in the morning. Once it hit me that the leak was depressurizing the oil pressure bank overnight, got on it.
Clay what's the next video going to be???
Haha, I have a few more on my Yourube channel - YouTube.com/TexasKnowHow - but I am working on post edit for some simple stuff like diff oil changes, transfer case oil change, mass air flow sensor cleaning and rear brakes for the 80S and 100S. I'll get on it this weekend. Thanks for the kick to get going! Take care, Clay
Oh yeah, I'll be doing a steering pump and associated hoses soon. Mine (80S) is starting to whine and leaks pretty bad. All the front oil leak fixes are still nice and dry!
So I was back under my car to do a coolant flush and took a look at my oil pump gasket (area) and crank seal and verify my leaks had stopped.
Everything looked dry except for this hex nut near the oil pump cover...anyone know what this is and if it is an easy fix??
Everything looked dry except for this hex nut near the oil pump cover...anyone know what this is and if it is an easy fix??
Oh yeah, I'll be doing a steering pump and associated hoses soon. Mine (80S) is starting to whine and leaks pretty bad. All the front oil leak fixes are still nice and dry!
Subscribed...my power steering hoses need replacement and I would like to swap the fluid.
(Videos are SO much easier to work off of...most the time in walk-thrus, I don't know half the parts people are referencing lol.)
Thanks again!
Hex bolt
quote: Everything looked dry except for this hex nut near the oil pump cover...anyone know what this is and if it is an easy fix?? end quote
That is what I've heard folks call an oil gally (sp?) If you find out how to replace the gasket or oring or whatever behind it, let us all know... I didn't mess with mine during all the leak fixes, but it is weeping a little on mine too. Clay
quote: Everything looked dry except for this hex nut near the oil pump cover...anyone know what this is and if it is an easy fix?? end quote
That is what I've heard folks call an oil gally (sp?) If you find out how to replace the gasket or oring or whatever behind it, let us all know... I didn't mess with mine during all the leak fixes, but it is weeping a little on mine too. Clay
Mine is leaking there too, its just a metal washer under there. Dealer only item, will have to drain the oil to replace. Im just waiting for my next oil change.
i think this is the part number for the hex bolt deal we're all taking about now... I'm getting one for my next oil change as well. Thanks guys, Clay
And you are correct manny of the leaks could easily be fix by doing this first and then taken on the bigger job!
Also you do not have to change the oil nor are you going to loose too much oil when you remove the plug, this is a very easy plug to replace however it is tight so you need to apply some torque hand torque or you need to start working out to be able to remove plug
