Long story to follow: (skip to the photos for a quick read)
So was in the middle of the job tearing things down to remove the head on a 95 model FZJ80 and couldn't get to the rearmost lower exhaust manifold nut. For those that haven't done this job yet, the first five exhaust manifold runners have two nuts/studs each holding them to the head. But the #6 Exhaust runner has three studs/nuts. upper front, upper far rear, and lower rear.
You can get to the upper rearmost #6 exhaust manifold nut from above with a combination of sockets and extensions, not too bad (with the valve cover, heater pipes, hoses, manifold heat shields, and kickdown cable bracket removed already). The front upper #6 exhaust manifold nut/stud (and all the others going forward) are all easily accessible.
But the lower rearmost nut on the back/rear lower side of the rearmost (#6) exhaust manifold runner is pretty much impossible to remove from above. Some people already know this, just wanted to share hoping others don't bang their heads against the wall trying to get to that one nut/stud from above.
I approached it from below on my back, right side of vehicle, squiggle in head first behind the right front wheel then forward a bit and look up, follow the block up to the head and the exhaust manifold at the rear. Using an extra long flex head 14mm (x 12mm) ratcheting box wrench (ICON brand) got it loose and most of the way out. Finished up from above (same wrench still attached from below) when the stud got very loose.
Tips: if the area is oily and grimey, wash it off first. Also helps to have good lighting (pointing up) so you can find the nut and securely place the wrench on it. Also one thing I do when I can't find a nut or bolt when looking up from below, but know where it is from above (but can't get to it with a tool) is to put some bright yellow paint on the nut/bolt (just using my finger) so it stands out better when trying to find it from below,if that makes sense.
The set of ICON brand wrenches were from HF (#56694), price was $199 for five wrenches, so $40 a wrench. Northern Tool sells a similar 12 mm x 14 mm flex head box wrench by itself (and other sizes) for $59 each, so the HF ICON kit is a better buy if you need/want the other sizes.
These two wrenches (ICON and Northern Tool) looked pretty much identical, but the ICON wrench appeared to have a slightly better chromed finish, FWIW. The ICON were made in Taiwan and appear to be fairly good quality (best part, they're not made in Comm Chynna).
So here's the photos, they tell the story:
Looking down and rearward from above (right rear side of engine), heat shields removed, rear lifting hook is at top of photo, firewall inches away toward top of photo, transmission kick down cable in the background, the manifold nut in question is closest (in the photo) to the hook.
There is very little room to work in this area between the firewall, the lifting hook and the location of the nut. Just not enough space to get a tool on that nut working from above and then remove it, particularly if it hasn't been touched in 25 years (wetness is from Aero Kroil Penetrating oil daily x 4 days before starting):
Close up view of the rearmost lower exhaust manifold nut, rear lifting hook at top of photo:
Looking up from below: front of vehicle is to the right in the photo (this side of the engine was cleaned off some before starting). Click on photo and magnify for more detail.
Close-up view from below of the long flex head ratcheting wrench on the nut; note the rearmost upper exhaust manifold nut has already been removed (stud with yellow paint still in place): For orientation the Firewall is to the left.
Close-up view looking from above down onto the flex head wrench in place on the lower rearmost nut:
So was in the middle of the job tearing things down to remove the head on a 95 model FZJ80 and couldn't get to the rearmost lower exhaust manifold nut. For those that haven't done this job yet, the first five exhaust manifold runners have two nuts/studs each holding them to the head. But the #6 Exhaust runner has three studs/nuts. upper front, upper far rear, and lower rear.
You can get to the upper rearmost #6 exhaust manifold nut from above with a combination of sockets and extensions, not too bad (with the valve cover, heater pipes, hoses, manifold heat shields, and kickdown cable bracket removed already). The front upper #6 exhaust manifold nut/stud (and all the others going forward) are all easily accessible.
But the lower rearmost nut on the back/rear lower side of the rearmost (#6) exhaust manifold runner is pretty much impossible to remove from above. Some people already know this, just wanted to share hoping others don't bang their heads against the wall trying to get to that one nut/stud from above.
I approached it from below on my back, right side of vehicle, squiggle in head first behind the right front wheel then forward a bit and look up, follow the block up to the head and the exhaust manifold at the rear. Using an extra long flex head 14mm (x 12mm) ratcheting box wrench (ICON brand) got it loose and most of the way out. Finished up from above (same wrench still attached from below) when the stud got very loose.
Tips: if the area is oily and grimey, wash it off first. Also helps to have good lighting (pointing up) so you can find the nut and securely place the wrench on it. Also one thing I do when I can't find a nut or bolt when looking up from below, but know where it is from above (but can't get to it with a tool) is to put some bright yellow paint on the nut/bolt (just using my finger) so it stands out better when trying to find it from below,if that makes sense.
The set of ICON brand wrenches were from HF (#56694), price was $199 for five wrenches, so $40 a wrench. Northern Tool sells a similar 12 mm x 14 mm flex head box wrench by itself (and other sizes) for $59 each, so the HF ICON kit is a better buy if you need/want the other sizes.
These two wrenches (ICON and Northern Tool) looked pretty much identical, but the ICON wrench appeared to have a slightly better chromed finish, FWIW. The ICON were made in Taiwan and appear to be fairly good quality (best part, they're not made in Comm Chynna).
So here's the photos, they tell the story:
Looking down and rearward from above (right rear side of engine), heat shields removed, rear lifting hook is at top of photo, firewall inches away toward top of photo, transmission kick down cable in the background, the manifold nut in question is closest (in the photo) to the hook.
There is very little room to work in this area between the firewall, the lifting hook and the location of the nut. Just not enough space to get a tool on that nut working from above and then remove it, particularly if it hasn't been touched in 25 years (wetness is from Aero Kroil Penetrating oil daily x 4 days before starting):
Close up view of the rearmost lower exhaust manifold nut, rear lifting hook at top of photo:
Looking up from below: front of vehicle is to the right in the photo (this side of the engine was cleaned off some before starting). Click on photo and magnify for more detail.
Close-up view from below of the long flex head ratcheting wrench on the nut; note the rearmost upper exhaust manifold nut has already been removed (stud with yellow paint still in place): For orientation the Firewall is to the left.
Close-up view looking from above down onto the flex head wrench in place on the lower rearmost nut:
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