How-to: Rear Shocks Replacement, Alternative way (1 Viewer)

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Mar 8, 2017
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Federal Way, WA
Brief how-to on rear shocks replacement:

Alternative way of replacing

1. Make sure you got right parts for the job. I used basic OEM replacement that I paid less than $100

2. Locate and remove bottom shock bolt (17mm)

3. Drill the 2.5-in hole from the inside of the vehicle.
  • BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!! If you miss, you will hit fuel line or other lines!
  • MVIMG_20180211_143357.jpg

  • Body metal is really thin.
  • Measurements: 5 in from side trim, 43 in from the rear trim is approx the center
  • MVIMG_20180211_143247.jpg
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    MVIMG_20180211_143343.jpg
4. Remove top nut (22mm). If the nut spins and does not unscrew, drill a single hole in the top section of the old shock and stick a screwdriver to lock it in place.
MVIMG_20180211_144122.jpg


Once you replaced shocks, clean the area of the big hole you just made and spray several coats of protective coating to prevent corrosion. Use silicone and thick rubber to cover up the hole.

It took me over 4 hours to replace both shocks. I am not a mechanic and this alternative way was an improvisation for me.
 
Yep, i did this method, there are a bunch of holes in the rear tub what's a couple more lol. I ended up breaking the strut bolt clean off the strut, so there was no way to do that with a wrench from underneath. Rust bowl sucks, your shock still looks good.


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I paid the local tire shop $45 to replace my driver's side rear shock. Did the others myself. No holes, and it didn't take me 4 hours.

I've done two sets of rear shock replacement on different 100 series vehicles. I find it mind-boggling that folks drill into the rear body to access the top nut, but it's relatively popular. That said, the ones I worked on were western state vehicles with minimal rust. On a rusted vehicle it'd be a different story I'm sure.

I think if you can get it with a breaker bar from above you can also get it underneath with no drilling required and a strap wrench. Removing the rear interior carpet to drill the hole is more work than I put into breaking loose any of the 4 rear shocks I've done.
 
22 mm flex head ratcheting wrench makes quick work of it. Delivered for less than $20 from fleabay.
 
Mine was still a bitch even when I went at it with a gear wench and holding the shock with a pipe wrench. Decided it wasn't worth any more of my time, dropped the $45 and done.
 
Holy smokes y'all, $20 22 mm ratcheting wrench from Home Depot, reach up and over the rear axle/pumpkin, make a few attempts to see what works best, ratchet sucker loose. MAX 20 mins/ side.
 
10 Minute Rear Shock Install Yup,thats been posted a while back , but I’m with the crowd that wouldn’t cut access holes ,it’s just to easy a job. but mine is rust free and only took a few minutes with the flex head ratchet wrench and a pipe wrench.
 
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To all of you who were able to get it done faster and by the manual - good for you. In my case, I could not break loose factory nut from underneath the car. This post is to help people who want to go this route and need measurements to drill a hole.

I treated the edges of openings and covered them with three layers of paint to prevent rust. I also used silicone and sheet metal to completely seal the interior from any moisture.
 
Just for future reference a sawzall will also make quick work of your rear shocks. Get it in at just the right angle and you can cut them just below the top mount.

Had to do this when removing my AHC because my top nut was disintegrated.
 
Just for future reference a sawzall will also make quick work of your rear shocks. Get it in at just the right angle and you can cut them just below the top mount.

Had to do this when removing my AHC because my top nut was disintegrated.
Was going to ask why not do a sawzall or hacksaw?

edt: Sorry for dead thread resurrection
 

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