How To Improve The 91 FJ80? (1 Viewer)

[jomichael]

I have a 91 and I love it. The engine is a dog, but got it with 0 rust and 150k with everything working. I added 285/85/17 wheels and tires with a 2.5" lift.
I hear a lot of complaints about this particular year and want to see what solutions there are for overcoming them easily and would like your recommendations.
1. Non full floating rear axle. Can I swap in a later model pretty easily? Did the later models have rear disks?
2. Small brakes. I have 17" wheels, can I swap in a later model system or a Power Stop system? Do I need to swap the master cylinder as well?
3. 3FE is slow. I will regear to 4:88 and add ARB air lockers so it is back to factory slow. When it dies, if ever, I'll do a swap.

Any other negatives about this year that can be overcome without a mountain of effort? Again, I love the truck, but looking to upgrade where possible.

 

[Marco Lau]

Welcome.
I have owned my 91 for over 6 yrs now. There is really no negatives on these trucks, the 3-FE is not fast, but it is perfect for the types of adventures for me. The engine is simple and reliable. Do a desmog, advance timing and the engine will be more responsive. I am on 4.88, 37s, desmog and with an upgraded nomad valve body for the A440F, really not much to complain. If you want to pull steep grade @ 75mph, get a 100 series or do a V8 swap. Or get a 1FZ-FE, and then complain more when your end up fixing the head gaskets and paying 3X more with factory lockers.....use the extra coin you saved on mods or gas and enjoy. I love the 3FE, and i would never get rid of it for a 1FZ. Regear if you want to go with 35s or larger tires, ARB air lockers are better than electronic lockers IMO.

Cheers

 

[UsedLuxury]

I have a 92, I plan on swapping both front and rear axles to a later year so I have disc on all 4. You can upgrade the brake system in a lot of different ways, you need to search and figure out what you want and what you're willing to spend.
I desmogged my 3fe and it made a noticeable difference in power and throttle response. I haven't ran a full tank yet so I'm not sure what my MPGs are but from what I can tell mileage has improved.

 

[Marco Lau]

I have yet feel the need to upgrade my brakes even though I am on 37s, beadlocks, front/rear bumpers/ winch, recovery gear. tools etc. I can lock up all 4 tires with plenty of stopping power.

 

[-Spike-]

I have a 91 and I love it. The engine is a dog, but got it with 0 rust and 150k with everything working. I added 285/85/17 wheels and tires with a 2.5" lift.
I hear a lot of complaints about this particular year and want to see what solutions there are for overcoming them easily and would like your recommendations.
1. Non full floating rear axle. Can I swap in a later model pretty easily? Did the later models have rear disks?
2. Small brakes. I have 17" wheels, can I swap in a later model system or a Power Stop system? Do I need to swap the master cylinder as well?
3. 3FE is slow. I will regear to 4:88 and add ARB air lockers so it is back to factory slow. When it dies, if ever, I'll do a swap.

Any other negatives about this year that can be overcome without a mountain of effort? Again, I love the truck, but looking to upgrade where possible.

I'd focus on the things you don't like, rather than the things other people complain about. Does it bother you that you have a semi floater? If not, why mess with it?

You can swap in a later FF axle. I'd think you would need the newer brake master cylinder as well, but I'm not sure about that.
I'd consider lower gears than 4.88. The only drawback is a lower top speed. Does that really matter?
I'd avoid air lockers like plague, but that's a debate you can read about at your leisure. I like the factory lockers, but I'd take aftermarket electric lockers over air lockers.

 

[Marco Lau]

I have a 92, I plan on swapping both front and rear axles to a later year so I have disc on all 4. You can upgrade the brake system in a lot of different ways, you need to search and figure out what you want and what you're willing to spend.
I desmogged my 3fe and it made a noticeable difference in power and throttle response. I haven't ran a full tank yet so I'm not sure what my MPGs are but from what I can tell mileage has improved.

You have disc. In the front and full float already, so why swap in front?

 

[Marco Lau]

Read up on how to adjust the rear brake proportioning valves if your rig is lifted. That made the most improvement for me granted your brakes are in good shape already before you went down the road for a full float swap..

 

[OGBeno]

Buy a Prius. Instant upgrade.

 

[Dusten]

On the front I did brakes off a 97 lx450. But I was also do for front brakes. So it coincided.

 

[jomichael]

Welcome.
I have owned my 91 for over 6 yrs now. There is really no negatives on these trucks, the 3-FE is not fast, but it is perfect for the types of adventures for me. The engine is simple and reliable. Do a desmog, advance timing and the engine will be more responsive. I am on 4.88, 37s, desmog and with an upgraded nomad valve body for the A440F, really not much to complain. If you want to pull steep grade @ 75mph, get a 100 series or do a V8 swap. Or get a 1FZ-FE, and then complain more when your end up fixing the head gaskets and paying 3X more with factory lockers.....use the extra coin you saved on mods or gas and enjoy. I love the 3FE, and i would never get rid of it for a 1FZ. Regear if you want to go with 35s or larger tires, ARB air lockers are better than electronic lockers IMO.
View attachment 2960963

Cheers

Nice looking truck! Thanks for the advice.

 

[jomichael]

I have yet feel the need to upgrade my brakes even though I am on 37s, beadlocks, front/rear bumpers/ winch, recovery gear. tools etc. I can lock up all 4 tires with plenty of stopping power.

That's interesting, so you never feel brake fade while descending hills or driving down from mountains on roads? 37" is a lot to stop with such a small diameter rotor. I can definitely feel the stopping power isn't as strong with my new wheels. I think there may be an issue with my master cylinder as well, when sitting at a stop light and keeping a set pressure on the pedal, the truck will start creeping forward and I have to press the brake more to stop. MC might be leaking?

 

[jomichael]

I'd focus on the things you don't like, rather than the things other people complain about. Does it bother you that you have a semi floater? If not, why mess with it?

You can swap in a later FF axle. I'd think you would need the newer brake master cylinder as well, but I'm not sure about that.
I'd consider lower gears than 4.88. The only drawback is a lower top speed. Does that really matter?
I'd avoid air lockers like plague, but that's a debate you can read about at your leisure. I like the factory lockers, but I'd take aftermarket electric lockers over air lockers.

I think I am mainly concerned about braking. The debate over ARB air lockers and aftermarket elockers is still raging, not sure which way to go.

 

[jomichael]

Read up on how to adjust the rear brake proportioning valves if your rig is lifted. That made the most improvement for me granted your brakes are in good shape already before you went down the road for a full float swap..

Will do, thanks for the advice.

 

[onemanarmy]

That's interesting, so you never feel brake fade while descending hills or driving down from mountains on roads? 37" is a lot to stop with such a small diameter rotor. I can definitely feel the stopping power isn't as strong with my new wheels. I think there may be an issue with my master cylinder as well, when sitting at a stop light and keeping a set pressure on the pedal, the truck will start creeping forward and I have to press the brake more to stop. MC might be leaking?

Is your brake booster and master cylinder from 1991?

 

[jomichael]

On the front I did brakes off a 97 lx450. But I was also do for front brakes. So it coincided.

Was it a bolt up affair? Did you change the master cylinder? Do you think the upgrade was worth it? This seems like the easiest upgrade.

 

[JohnVee]

Buy a Prius. Instant upgrade.

That's from firsthand experience right there, folks!

 

[Dusten]

Was it a bolt up affair? Did you change the master cylinder? Do you think the upgrade was worth it? This seems like the easiest upgrade.

The dust shields need removed or modified.
Otherwise it's a bolt on affair.
I felt it was worth it especially since I already had to buy rotors and pads so calipers were the only added cost.

No on the master. From what I've read all lc's use the same bore and stroke.

 

[Dusten]

Here's the difference in rotors

 

[White Stripe]

I love my 92 man. I've found parts are harder to find. A 80 in general is expensive to baseline. I replaced the rear axle with a disc brake axle. My lspv was leaking and so were the axle seals, and it had 300k on it. So do I fix it or go disc axle swap? You can buy a used non locking disc brake axle for less than 500 bucks. So I swapped the axle out for disc's. Easier to change bearings, full floater, axle shafts are easily upgraded. Its actually quite a bit more work than fixing the drum brake axle would have been but not terrible. Its not a necessary swap but i think its sn upgrade. Sounds like you have a bad brake booster. Remember toyota parts don't last forever. I've replaced my booster, master, and all brake hoses. At 300k miles and 30 years most of all the mechanical parts on my cruiser were worn out. Your looks like it's in a little better shape than mine was when I started. I have lots of modern upgrades to mine now.

 

[Corbet]

Just drive it as is. Fix what breaks.

4.88’s are not going to make it any faster. They will give you much more control when wheeling. They will help accelerate from a dead stop. At HWY speeds it will only change the shift points with respect to MPH

A full float will give you better brakes. But on 33’s living in TX not sure it’s worth the expense unless it also solves other issues.

Power, LS conversion is the only game changer there. Make sure 3FE is in good tune and accept it for what it is.

Take those D-rings off the ARB bumper eyelet’s. They are not recovery points. Spool your winchline all the way in or secure the hook up higher. Hiving it attached that low will lead to line damage if you wheel it hard in the rocks.

Sliders are better money spend IMHO than anything you mentioned previously. But you never mentioned your intended use For the truck.