How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
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If it has nipples, can you milk it?
99% of people wouldn't know it wasn't factory. I'm going to leave the parking light covers on mine though.
99% of people wouldn't know it wasn't factory. I'm going to leave the parking light covers on mine though.
Have you figured out the adjustment? I'm going to attempt mine this weekend when I get home.
- Thread starter
- #45
bamabrock said:
I think the shroud is hitting the bezel. That's what it looks like. Not enough clearance. They are baking now, I will trim tue bezel and report back. I hope my sealant softens up LOL.
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it looks like the top might be hitting, and if so, that would cause them to aim low when you tightened to back locknut. A little trim of the shroud with a dremel should fix it if that's the case. I'm going to mount the projector without the shroud, get it finetuned in the garage, then make the shroud fit before I reseal them. Nice to be able to learn from others' experience, so thanks for being the guinea pig for us 
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- #47
Bingo!!!!!
The bezel does no have enough clearance to be adjusted upward. I need to shave a little off the headlight bezel. Since it's facing downward it won't matter you will never see it.
Thank god
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The bezel does no have enough clearance to be adjusted upward. I need to shave a little off the headlight bezel. Since it's facing downward it won't matter you will never see it.
Thank god
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Last edited:
the bezel (i'm assuming the factory housing; I wasn't planning on disassembling the housing other than taking the glass and the factory light reflector off) or the shroud?
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- #49
Bezel on the headlight needs to be trimmed.
Here is the result. Full range of adjustability is back. Tape is where I was hitting the bezel. Now I can light up the moon.
When it comes out of the even I will post pictures of what needs to be trimmed.
I would no trim the Projectors shroud. That's asking for light leaks ( you will see what I mean when you dig in)
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Here is the result. Full range of adjustability is back. Tape is where I was hitting the bezel. Now I can light up the moon.
When it comes out of the even I will post pictures of what needs to be trimmed.
I would no trim the Projectors shroud. That's asking for light leaks ( you will see what I mean when you dig in)
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #51
bamabrock said:it looks like the top might be hitting, and if so, that would cause them to aim low when you tightened to back locknut. A little trim of the shroud with a dremel should fix it if that's the case. I'm going to mount the projector without the shroud, get it finetuned in the garage, then make the shroud fit before I reseal them. Nice to be able to learn from others' experience, so thanks for being the guinea pig for us
No problem. Not happy about openin them up again but whatever. It happens. Maybe all 20 mud members will use my mistakes to make theirs perfect. I know mine aren't anymore. But they work and look good
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- #52
100% finished. First retro on a 2000 headlight that I know of. Excellent turnout, few speed bumps but managed to get it all patched up and can't wait for the first drive tonight
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Get another set of them and put them in your fogs. 
Did you take pics of the area you cut on the housing?
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- #56
first page. Shows what needs to be cut on the back of the housing. A few posts up shows the bezel cut.
Are you running these in "bi" mode or are you just going to use the halogens for high beam?
what about wiring? it is plug and play, or since you already had the DDM kit in you already had the wiring complete.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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- #60
if you have a DDM relay harness yes all you do is swap out the ballasts and bulbs. You can use the DDM relay or the TRS relay. I just used my old one and I have a extra TRS relay harness laying around. I will use that when I put the DDM 55W Kit in the high beam location soon.
