starting from scratch......
How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
you need me to explain everything? or are you stating your starting from scratch and installing the whole kit?
was just wondering if it was the same as the DDM kit, if so then i can look that up on the other thread.
- Thread starter
- #64
Everything is interchangeable with no modification, your TRS stuff will work with the DDM stuff. Please read my thread thoroughly though. I got smoke from my headlights when I plugged my XB35 H1 bulbs in the 55W DDM ballasts after 10 seconds.
I guess that answers my question about the "bi" mode... you are using the Morimoto's for low beam only.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
He just dint want to mess around with the bixenon wiring...but I am told that the harness from TRS makes the bixenon mode pnp
- Thread starter
- #67
seriously???? I am swapping them today if that is true!
nice trailblazing UZJ100! although I'm not doing this mod, it was fun to watch. great job on the R&D!
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
I was wrong! I looked at the package wrong...I thought those red pieces were connectors for the bixenon...
Close, but not totally pnp with the TRS harness, I spliced the leads from the mini-mori shutter solenoids to the existing halogen high-beam leads so the 'bi-' shutter gets triggered when I turn high beams on.
Mine went into DEPO housings and I did the splice inside the housing so I can't get a pic now, but it's straightforward to describe. The small gauge red and black wires that come from the shutter solenoid in the bi-xenon end in a small black two-lead connector. The red/black needs to get 12V when you want the 'bi-' shutter to unblock the top of the light pattern, so I just spliced the red/black to the existing white/black leads that power the halogen high beam bulb. I don't think polarity would matter for the 'bi-' shutter solenoid, but FWIW, I spliced black-to-black and red-to-white.
The TRS kit included a mate for that small two-lead connector with 8 or 10 inches of red/black coming out of that connector. I actually spliced that one so that the two-lead connector is in-line if I ever want to disconnect the bi- shutter for some reason.
Result is that when I switch to high beam, the old halogen bulb comes on as usual, and the bi-xenon shutter on the mini-moris flips out of the way to give max light output.
The TRS kit included a mate for that small two-lead connector with 8 or 10 inches of red/black coming out of that connector. I actually spliced that one so that the two-lead connector is in-line if I ever want to disconnect the bi- shutter for some reason.
Result is that when I switch to high beam, the old halogen bulb comes on as usual, and the bi-xenon shutter on the mini-moris flips out of the way to give max light output.
TRS website suggested a drop of oil on shutter pivot points and solenoid shaft, and verifying shutter operation (touch leads to battery to make it actuate) several times before installing, so I did that stuff. Both of mine operated so freely before oiling that I don't see that you should be concerned if you didn't. I sure wouldn't go back thru the PIA of baking to open the seal again just to do that.
The sharp cutoff line you see in your light beams now is the edge of the shutter blocking the top half of light output from the bulb when the 'bi-' shutter is in low beam condition. When shutter flips out of the way for high-beam, it just unblocks the top half of the bulb. The light produced by the bulb is the same either way, it's just the shutter that creates low-beam/high-beam effect.
Looks nice - if you're liking the low beam output (I'm pleased with them too), you might wet your pants when you hook up the shutter wires and see what you've got when on high beam.
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks for the help. I will tackle this in the AM before it gets hot out. I can't wait.
One thing... i did not oil my solenoid. I hope all goes well. It was smooth as butter. But after a few hours of cooking things might change.
Wow, great job. Very nice looking. Now you just need to figure out how to get them to turn with the steering wheel 
That's kind of what I was getting at... why wouldn't you wire the shutter solenoid to open when you activate your hi-beams - in addition to your existing high beam? Seems like that's the way to go.
Right, that's the way I'm running when on high beam (HID+halogen), very happy with the increased light output over the old halogen+halogen. My commute home every night includes a 25 mi run on dark 2-lane thru deer country - more light at night pays for itself eventually in my 'hood.
