How to engage 4wd in Lx 470 2001? (2 Viewers)

[Patassa]

Yesterday I decided to test the low range "L" on a street and did the same as the manual said "Stop the vehicle, put AT in N, shift 4WD lever from H to N to L". It worked well and I could feel little vibration when it went into L. Drove around several blocks, I could defenetly feel more power and torque while going up or down. When I wanted to put it back into H it was much harder for some reason to move it from L to N as if the lever was stuck in L. Eventually I was able to put it back into H (My hand slipped from the lever head and hit the 12V cover cutting my thumb ). Also the lever head moves a little in H. Is it normal? I cannot remember if I could move it slightly before. Otherwise the vehicle drives fine now back in H

You drove around paved streets in L? Was the center diff locked also?

 

[UGN]

You drove around paved streets in L? Was the center diff locked also?

Yes, I drove in L on the street. No, CDL was not locked as it was hard pavement and must be used on slippery surface only like sand, mud, ice, snow, etc.

Also there is nothing in the manual that would prohibit from driving in low range on pavement. The vehicle just drives slower than normal.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Yes, I drove in L on the street. No, CDL was not locked as it was hard pavement and must be used on slippery surface only like sand, mud, ice, snow, etc.

Also there is nothing in the manual that would prohibit from driving in low range on pavement. The vehicle just drives slower than normal.

I concur, you can drive in L anywhere and everywhere you please, as long as you please. It just drives slower!

 

[jLB]

I concur, you can drive in L anywhere and everywhere you please, as long as you please. It just drives slower!

Mostly true. 1998-1999 models auto-engage the center diff lock by default, unless someone has done the “pin 7 mod”, that prevents this default behavior. These models shouldn’t be driven on a “high traction” surface in 4L (unless they’ve been modified not to lock the center diff automatically when put in 4L)

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Mostly true. 1998-1999 models auto-engage the center diff lock by default, unless someone has done the “pin 7 mod”, that prevents this default behavior. These models shouldn’t be driven on a “high traction” surface in 4L (unless they’ve been modified not to lock the center diff automatically when put in 4L)

Very good call. I did the pin 7 mod very early on in my 98.

 

[PharmerDan100]

Hi all, this is useful information for a noob like me, but I'm still a bit confused on what is the "preferred" way (if there is one) to engage the CDL? From the few videos I saw on YouTube it seems the drivers started from a complete stop, with their foot on the brake.

Based on the owner's manual instructions, it seems they only specify stopping the car and placing the transmission in neutral when shifting between "H" and "L", but don't comment on whether or not the car needs to be stopped when engaging the CDL in either setting.

Does the car need to be completely stopped before pressing the CDL button?
Should foot be on the brake?
Not necessarily on the brake, but off the gas?
Is it ok if the car is rolling ~5-10mph, foot off the gas, when pressing the CDL button?

For purposes of testing out the CDL when shopping for a used 100, is it ok to engage on asphalt?
Yes, but only when moving in completely straight line? Or is it ok to turn and do figure 8's on asphalt while CDL is engaged?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Does the car need to be completely stopped before pressing the CDL button? Not necessarily, but I would
Should foot be on the brake? Brake isn't required to engage the center lock
Not necessarily on the brake, but off the gas? Again, I personally would
Is it ok if the car is rolling ~5-10mph, foot off the gas, when pressing the CDL button? 5-10 is faster than you think. My process for center and rear is to stop, hit the button, and start rolling, waiting for the click and light.

For purposes of testing out the CDL when shopping for a used 100, is it ok to engage on asphalt?
Yes, but only when moving in completely straight line? Or is it ok to turn and do figure 8's on asphalt while CDL is engaged? You can, but you'll get heavy driveline binding and tire chirping. I guess technically you could break something if you got too wound up.

All of that said, you'll use the CDL way less than you think.

 

[Bisho]

Hi all, this is useful information for a noob like me, but I'm still a bit confused on what is the "preferred" way (if there is one) to engage the CDL? From the few videos I saw on YouTube it seems the drivers started from a complete stop, with their foot on the brake.

Based on the owner's manual instructions, it seems they only specify stopping the car and placing the transmission in neutral when shifting between "H" and "L", but don't comment on whether or not the car needs to be stopped when engaging the CDL in either setting.

Does the car need to be completely stopped before pressing the CDL button?
Should foot be on the brake?
Not necessarily on the brake, but off the gas?
Is it ok if the car is rolling ~5-10mph, foot off the gas, when pressing the CDL button?

For purposes of testing out the CDL when shopping for a used 100, is it ok to engage on asphalt?
Yes, but only when moving in completely straight line? Or is it ok to turn and do figure 8's on asphalt while CDL is engaged?

You don’t need to stop, but you do want to ensure the front and rear drivelines are going the same speed. I don’t recall any speed limit on pressing the button in the owner’s manual. Just don’t engage it in a turn or if you are already spinning a tire.

 

[PharmerDan100]

I had some follow up questions regarding where to set the automatic transmission lever for various driving conditions.
If I'm understanding the owner's manual correctly, the transmission lever should always be set at "D" by default. It should only be moved to "2" for engine braking, or "L" for even stronger engine braking when going down hill.

That being the case, besides engine braking down hill, are there any other driving conditions when it would be appropriate to deviate from this default setting of transmission lever at D and 4WD lever at L? (designated "D+L")
For example, would there be any advantage to climbing a steep dirt hill at 2+L? Or better yet L+L? Or simply leave at D+L

 

[Bisho]

I had some follow up questions regarding where to set the automatic transmission lever for various driving conditions.
If I'm understanding the owner's manual correctly, the transmission lever should always be set at "D" by default. It should only be moved to "2" for engine braking, or "L" for even stronger engine braking when going down hill.

That being the case, besides engine braking down hill, are there any other driving conditions when it would be appropriate to deviate from this default setting of transmission lever at D and 4WD lever at L? (designated "D+L")
For example, would there be any advantage to climbing a steep dirt hill at 2+L? Or better yet L+L? Or simply leave at D+L

View attachment 3385136

I use all the options off road. Normally 4L and second start, lever in D. Then I’ll drop to 2nd or 1st to control speed downhill, or 1st when I need to for climbing an obstacle.

 

[BullElk]

I had some follow up questions regarding where to set the automatic transmission lever for various driving conditions.
If I'm understanding the owner's manual correctly, the transmission lever should always be set at "D" by default. It should only be moved to "2" for engine braking, or "L" for even stronger engine braking when going down hill.

That being the case, besides engine braking down hill, are there any other driving conditions when it would be appropriate to deviate from this default setting of transmission lever at D and 4WD lever at L? (designated "D+L")
For example, would there be any advantage to climbing a steep dirt hill at 2+L? Or better yet L+L? Or simply leave at D+L

View attachment 3385136

“Climbing a steep dirt hill at 2+L?”

I would say only if it is very dry and stable ground. My daily experiences are not in rocky dry ground near as much as wet slippery mud in the South. I think the goal when traversing thru challenging terrain is to not spin a tire. When the tire spins, controlled traction to move forward is lost and steering is lost. Creeping thru controlling forward progress and steering is the goal, imo.

The quickest way to lose said traction and steering is in a low gear. So I think when gravity is against you going up or down on dry ground is when gears 1 and 2 and 4L is very useful.

Another reason I like the permanent 4wd without lockers. It seems to be beneficial to have power bouncing around from tire to tire as one gets traction then loses traction continuing forward progress. That is more beneficial than locked axles digging holes in slippery conditions versus rocky conditions.

 

[Malleus]

I had some follow up questions regarding where to set the automatic transmission lever for various driving conditions.
If I'm understanding the owner's manual correctly, the transmission lever should always be set at "D" by default. It should only be moved to "2" for engine braking, or "L" for even stronger engine braking when going down hill.

That being the case, besides engine braking down hill, are there any other driving conditions when it would be appropriate to deviate from this default setting of transmission lever at D and 4WD lever at L? (designated "D+L")
For example, would there be any advantage to climbing a steep dirt hill at 2+L? Or better yet L+L? Or simply leave at D+L

View attachment 3385136

FWIW (A343F only), driving with the selector lever in 2 will allow the transmission to shift into 3rd gear (D) on its own. It will not shift into overdrive from 2nd. If you have a LX470, the TCM logic shifts the transmission into overdrive from N, and then into the selected gear, unless 2nd start is selected.

 

[natkidder]

Old thread but... I just test drove a 2001, 100 series and wondering if there should be a dash light specifically for 4lo? None came on when I shifted into 4lo and drove around the parking lot, but the CDL button did give me the diff lock and VSC lights. All the Toyota's I've owned showed a 4lo dash light but not too familiar with 100's or any of the full-time AWD types. Thanks in advance.

 

[leucadiacruiser]

Old thread but... I just test drove a 2001, 100 series and wondering if there should be a dash light specifically for 4lo? None came on when I shifted into 4lo and drove around the parking lot, but the CDL button did give me the diff lock and VSC lights. All the Toyota's I've owned showed a 4lo dash light but not too familiar with 100's or any of the full-time AWD types. Thanks in advance.

No dash light light will illuminate in 4Lo, only with CDL button.

 

[LC Lurker]

Old thread but... I just test drove a 2001, 100 series and wondering if there should be a dash light specifically for 4lo? None came on when I shifted into 4lo and drove around the parking lot, but the CDL button did give me the diff lock and VSC lights. All the Toyota's I've owned showed a 4lo dash light but not too familiar with 100's or any of the full-time AWD types. Thanks in advance.

My ‘03 LX doesn’t show a 4Lo light. Works fine though.

If it feels like it’s in a rush to go forward when you’re coming off the brake, then it’s probably working fine (hopefully that makes sense lol)

 

[natkidder]

No dash light light will illuminate in 4Lo, only with CDL button.

Got it. Much appreciated.

Thank you, it certainly felt like it was in low... just couldn't find any info about a dash light and the seller didn't know either.

 

[BnvS]

Imho, You don't need a light in low since you have a physical gear which you have to physically move into "Lo" that clearly shows you which gear you are in. You can also feel it via engine speed. So 2 physical confirmations clearly give a strong sense of the gear you are in.