How to: adding 100 series hatch/camping/work lights (3 Viewers)

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APKhaos said:
The source [Aqua Signal] does not specify an output value, so no way to tell how much light this thing delivers. It may be a good choice, but hard to tell without knowing the output vs the two light setup that others have used.

To add to this, there is some limited space behind the trim. Make sure it doesn't require too much space...
 
I just completed this light install. The hardest part was putting me Hatch trim back on after all of the wiring was complete. Also, snaking the wire through the rubber grommet was challenging.

I placed the three way switch in between the hatch handle. It took about three hours to complete the install and the light is wired directly to the second battery via my blue sea fuse panel.

I am looking forward to trying this new mod out on my next camping trip.
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wow awesome mod, not too sure about the red, but def loving the white!
 
ay nako said:
wow awesome mod, not too sure about the red, but def loving the white!

Yeah, it might not be for everyone. The benefit is really saving your night time vision. When you are working in white light you ate pretty blind when you turn it off. With red light, your eyes adjust much easier.
 
here is an old trick we used to do at the car stereo shop for running wires through rubber tubes/grommets. take a large zip tie cut the end off drill two holes in it put the wire in as shown then use the tip of the zip tie to feed through the grommet, when it reaches the other side just pull it through. a little vaseline helps too

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Great idea, could have used this many times!
 
I would really like to have the same setup that Mxndrnks put in his truck. I like the white and the red as well. He has a link for the lights in post #42 of this thread. I have a question though....

I understand why a lot of you guys put in a new fuse panel for this type stuff. In my instance, do I really need a new fuse panel. I have already done this mod and love it... https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/591994-cigarette-lighter-power-outlet.html
I explained in that thread that I don't use my power outlets for anything but maybe a phone charger or flashlight charger. My question is that if the Whelen lights draw 0.3 amps each, can i tie into my now always hot power outlet that is at the back of the LC?

I am not even close to thinking I know anything about this electrical stuff. But it seems like what I read says that the larger the demand (or draw), the larger my wires need to be. In my mind, these LED's are not a very large draw, therefore I am not sure if I need to install a whole new circuit.
 
I am not an expert in electrical... but based on what you wrote, I would think you would be ok as well. I already had a fuse panel installed from when I got my fridge. Maybe an "expert" can chime in...
 
You don't need a fuse panel but best practice would be an inline fuse close to where you are tapping power from. Should your wiring fail it won't takedown your other accessories on the circuit. The power outlet circuit has it's own fuse of course so need is really optional. As I said, best practice.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
 
Still looking for cool flush mount lamps. The Whelen are cool but I want flush... Something no bigger than 2.5 inches / 1 inch deep.

I did my proof of concept with the Seasense but they are way too big.

I used a relay so my hatch lights shutoff when the hatch is closed / on when you open it. Easy.
 
I saw SanDiegoCruisers whelen lights in person and while not flush they were pretty unobtrusive. I'm with you I would like flush but I'd settle for the whelen given the lack of cool options.
 
The Whelen lights have a rubber gasket around the outside of the light, making the light appear to have a factory look to it. The Whelen lights are not cheap, but they serve the purpose well. MxnDrnks did a great job in sourcing them!
 
RobRed said:
For those interested in doing the Courtesy Switch Mod (lights off when hatch closed) I have created some diagrams for the wiring: TLC FAQ - Camping / Hatch Light Wiring
Nice Rob.

I guess you could tap into the same wire to trigger a relay. The relay could then get its main power source from the blue sea aux battery circuit allowing the lights to be powered from a 2nd battery.
 
Nice Rob.

I guess you could tap into the same wire to trigger a relay. The relay could then get its main power source from the blue sea aux battery circuit allowing the lights to be powered from a 2nd battery.

The third diagram shows the relay trigger and the lamps tapped to the same power source... that power source could be an aux battery/fuse box if you have it

Here is an excerpt of my upcoming article:

I have previously wired my rear cargo 12 volt outlet to my aux battery so I will be tapping 12 volts for the lamps from this area. If you haven't done the same you will need to source a constant 12 volt source:

-Run a 18AWg wire from the Main battery to the outlet location with a fuse at the battery end
-Complete the Make Your Power Outlets ALWAYS On mod
-If you have an Aux battery / fuse box, run a wire from there to the outlet/relay/switch location
-You can still do this without any of the above but your lamps will only work if the key is in the ACC postion
 
Thanks Mxndrnks for the lamp source and Rob for the schematic. I'm going to do this but also wire in the license lights to be on when the switch is in the white on position. I had some LED wedge bulbs leftover that I put in those lamps.

I'm going to use the following illuminated switch and mini 10A relay:

"Keep It Clean SW2 Illuminated 3 Position Rocker Switch with Arrows"
Amazon

Directed Electronics 8616 Relay Assembly Mini
Amazon
 
I went camping this weekend. This was my first opportunity to test out the lights. This photo was taken with my iPhone, so it is kind of poor quality. You can also see the reverse light mounted on the Slee bumper. I twisted it around to light up camp.

Lights worked great. I was reading my Overland Journal at 9:30pm!
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