Apologies if this has been posted before, but this looks pretty helpful and easy. Can you buy just the original/OEM CDL switch?
How to add a Center Differential Lock to a truck that doesn't have one (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chbrow10
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Yes
- Thread starter
- #3
Tank, from Toyota or somewhere else?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Use a standard emergency flasher switch and just change the label
- Thread starter
- #5
Right, that is what the guy used in the video. I'm wondering where I buy the CDL switch from?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
dealer, part out, or:
Late 80 Series Toyota Emergency Dash Switch
Late 80 Series Toyota Emergency Dash Switch (EDS-1)
I don't think any FZJ80s came with the button in the US. I used an ETC button (curved) on my '93 that I bought off a part-out for a couple of bucks. Funny that if it says CDL, it goes for $50+. On my '95, I stole the emergency flasher button of my parts rig.
Slee carries them.
Slee - Electrical Switches
Specialist in Toyota 80 Series Land Cruisers. Hard to find parts, off-road accessories and custom fabrication
www.sleeoffroad.com
93-94 is 84725-60010
95-97 is 84725-60040
95-97 is 84725-60040
There is no new news, only a new audience. I did this mod over 20 years ago. 
I am trying to source a female connector the CDL switch plugs into.There is no new news, only a new audience. I did this mod over 20 years ago.
Anyone have a part# for this connector that is capped behind the dash?
Replied to the great C-dan in case he has it in a memory bank.
Thanks
I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my center diff lock. I've got a 1997 HDJ81 with an automatic transmission, though I think it's the same transmission as the US version.
Mine does not have the CDL switch (yet), so I was testing the system as is... I shifted the transfer case into Low and the center diff lock indicator on the dash lights up exactly like I expected. I backed the car up a few feet, then pulled forward again to it's parking spot, no turns, before switching back into High. A couple minutes later, I tried to repeat the process, but this time when going into Low, the diff lock indicator did not light up. I ignored it... though maybe something was bound up because I had just done it or maybe the system has an override to prevent switching back and forth.
Fast forward a couple weeks... I receive the CDL switch I ordered (a 1997 so 84725-60040), open the dash, remove the terminating connector with the jumper wire, attach the switch, but the switch won't active the center diff lock... or at least the instrument panel indicator doesn't light up. Out of curiosity, I put the car into Low, and again the center diff won't lock. So, I remove the switch and put the jumper back. Again... no center diff lock indicator when switching into Low. There's engine noise so I could be wrong, but I don't hear anything like it's trying to switch and can't.
So.... I'm thinking something went bad in the CDL mechanism between my first and second tests, the time I shifted into Low range a second time and the center diff didn't lock up. There is a small chance it is the indicator light that went bad, but doesn't the ABS light come on in low too? it's not going on either, so I think it's just not switching.
How does the center diff lock work? Maybe if I understand the system better, I can figure out ideas of where to look for the problem. What and where would I test to figure out why the center diff is not locking up? What generic conditions could happen to prevent the center diff from locking up either with the switch or when entering Low range?
Mine does not have the CDL switch (yet), so I was testing the system as is... I shifted the transfer case into Low and the center diff lock indicator on the dash lights up exactly like I expected. I backed the car up a few feet, then pulled forward again to it's parking spot, no turns, before switching back into High. A couple minutes later, I tried to repeat the process, but this time when going into Low, the diff lock indicator did not light up. I ignored it... though maybe something was bound up because I had just done it or maybe the system has an override to prevent switching back and forth.
Fast forward a couple weeks... I receive the CDL switch I ordered (a 1997 so 84725-60040), open the dash, remove the terminating connector with the jumper wire, attach the switch, but the switch won't active the center diff lock... or at least the instrument panel indicator doesn't light up. Out of curiosity, I put the car into Low, and again the center diff won't lock. So, I remove the switch and put the jumper back. Again... no center diff lock indicator when switching into Low. There's engine noise so I could be wrong, but I don't hear anything like it's trying to switch and can't.
So.... I'm thinking something went bad in the CDL mechanism between my first and second tests, the time I shifted into Low range a second time and the center diff didn't lock up. There is a small chance it is the indicator light that went bad, but doesn't the ABS light come on in low too? it's not going on either, so I think it's just not switching.
How does the center diff lock work? Maybe if I understand the system better, I can figure out ideas of where to look for the problem. What and where would I test to figure out why the center diff is not locking up? What generic conditions could happen to prevent the center diff from locking up either with the switch or when entering Low range?
It could be a bad low 4 position switch, a bad difflock indicator switch, a bad difflock control module, a wiring issue or a bad actuator.
Have you moved the vehicle when attempting to lock it or are you stationary?
Have you moved the vehicle when attempting to lock it or are you stationary?
ppc
M Go Blue
There are sensors on the transfer case that control the functionality that often as they age and are not used can have random failures. Another possible cause is a blown Diff fuse.
With the CDL dash switch installed that eliminates/overrides the need for a functioning 4Low Position switch. You can use that switch in either High or Low. When activated by the dash switch you should hear the relay and actuator. The engine does not need to be running just turned on.
The CDL Sensor switch is what lights the dash indicators for both CDL and ABS.
There are numerous threads and posts you can search for more detail.
With the CDL dash switch installed that eliminates/overrides the need for a functioning 4Low Position switch. You can use that switch in either High or Low. When activated by the dash switch you should hear the relay and actuator. The engine does not need to be running just turned on.
The CDL Sensor switch is what lights the dash indicators for both CDL and ABS.
There are numerous threads and posts you can search for more detail.
I've backed up a few feet and then pulled forward to the starting point, but haven't driven around.
I'm thinking maybe it's a relay or fuse as I can't hear anything when I shift into Low or activate the CDL switch (and I tried this with the new switch and the old terminator plug to make sure the switch I have isn't faulty). There's a 30A fuse in the panel by the steering wheel labeled DIFF, but the fuse is fine. I didn't see a relay under the hood labeled anything like diff or transfer case.
Driving a short distance straight back and forth may not be sufficient to get everything lined up. I would hit the button and then zig-zag the truck to see if it locks. If not move on to additional diagnosis.
There should be an audible click coming from one of the kick panels when you shift into low or activate the added switch. It comes from the left kick panel on a left-hand drive truck. I do not know if it reverses sides in a right-hand drive. The click isn't loud so listen carefully. If there is no click there is a problem with the circuit.
I had an intermittent problem with mine, related to cold weather. My lock function was sporadic and when It was not working there was no click. Once the vehicle warmed up it would start working. It ended up being the actuator... $$$.
There should be an audible click coming from one of the kick panels when you shift into low or activate the added switch. It comes from the left kick panel on a left-hand drive truck. I do not know if it reverses sides in a right-hand drive. The click isn't loud so listen carefully. If there is no click there is a problem with the circuit.
I had an intermittent problem with mine, related to cold weather. My lock function was sporadic and when It was not working there was no click. Once the vehicle warmed up it would start working. It ended up being the actuator... $$$.
You need to ensure your 80 has a transfer case with a CDL - hf1a (as fitted to my 80) does not and is for factory part-time 80's - not sure if hf2a all do as I don't fully understand if all full-time 4wd 80's got a t-case with the extra 'stuff' (CDL, viscious coupling section, etc.) and if the CDL is electrically selectable or not.
I've documented it has a locking center diff, but it currently relies only on automatically locking the CDL when entering low range. It does not yet have a selectable CDL switch which would allow locking the center diff while still in high range. To the best of my knowledge and research, ALL 80 series have CDL functionality and at a minimum will lock the center diff when entering low range. Some model years included additional functionality (which this thread is addressing) of a CDL switch which would also allow you to lock the center diff in high range.
With the truck off and in park turn the key to the ignition and have someone cycle the low range lever or press the CDL button while you lay under the car and listen for the actuator to cycle. If you aren't hearing anything then try driving far enough to get things warmed up and then repeat the process for listening for the actuator. I've also had the issue of the CDL not wanting to cycle when its cold.
If you're hearing the actuator cycle but not getting a dash light then the indicator switch may be bad. If the indicator switch is bad then the CDL may be locking but the dash is not reporting it.
