Cost aside anyone can wheel with 37's.
35's keep it challenging but always get you there
35's keep it challenging but always get you there
How important are 37" tires?
- Thread starter MYSHERPA
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- Thread starter
- #22
What about other factors such as road manners with 37s compard to 35s, does it turn the 80 into a dog going up hill on a canyon road?
Cost..............what cost?? My 37s were $350 for a full set of 5. Rims were $350.
Find me any 35s that are less than $700 for a set of 5..........
now gears to run them...............well thats a whole other can o worms
Find me any 35s that are less than $700 for a set of 5..........
now gears to run them...............well thats a whole other can o worms
I've wheeled 35's. Hard. They were good.
I wheel 37's now. They are better. I run the same trails and they aren't as 'hard'.
Brother Rob will eventually get 37's, and then he will sing their praises. Trust me, I know him.
I will never put 35's on my truck again, unless 37's suddenly got 3-4 times as expensive as 35's.
I also happen to be running stock gears at the moment. I've never stalled the truck, it's always had enough power to get over whatever ledge I think the truck is capable of getting its belly over. I do have 5.29's waiting on a shelf, and am anxious to get them in. Not a deal breaker though.
I wheel 37's now. They are better. I run the same trails and they aren't as 'hard'.
Brother Rob will eventually get 37's, and then he will sing their praises. Trust me, I know him.
I will never put 35's on my truck again, unless 37's suddenly got 3-4 times as expensive as 35's.
I also happen to be running stock gears at the moment. I've never stalled the truck, it's always had enough power to get over whatever ledge I think the truck is capable of getting its belly over. I do have 5.29's waiting on a shelf, and am anxious to get them in. Not a deal breaker though.
I'm a cheap/broke fawker, if and when I can get 37s for the price of 35s, I'll upgrade. Until then, I'm happy with the poverty pack.
Besides, I gotta find a white 80 with a snorkel first.
That's what I said. Then Tools (coughyourbrothercough) found me a deal, ~$850 for a set of 4.
Too bad you still had like-new 35's on your truck that month.
Too bad you still had like-new 35's on your truck that month.
That's what I said. Then Tools (coughyourbrothercough) found me a deal, ~$850 for a set of 4.
Too bad you still had like-new 35's on your truck that month.
Exactly my point. When I bought my last set it was $200/ea for a 35 vs. $300 for a 37. I didn't see enough advantage to justify the $500 increase in cost.
Since I would have had to buy a spare, it would have be closer to $800.
jfz80
Cruisin’
what is it they say......If you have to ask, you probably dont need it
Seeing as how we still dont know how you intend to use your truck Im gonna say NOT important but possibly useful.
Nice to have? Sure. Not necessary though.
Ive been on 37'' iroks for the last 3 years but just stepped down to 35'' KM2s and love them.
On road it is much nicer to drive as far as accelleration and braking and back on stock BS it tracks better. I mean, its almost...... um peppy
They do make the trails a bit tamer but I havent seen the obstacle that was 37's only around our trails, leaving those on 35's without chance. You may just have to take 2-3 chances. I just wheeled GSMTR for a week on the KM2s and loved it. Little better throttle response, no loading up the RPMs before forward progress on a ledge, but those are both likely due to stock gearing on both. I followed a good friend who has been my friendly rivalry in the 80 build world and he just went up to 37's in a sense catching up to me and I had just stepped down to 35s. At first I was bummed to be the little 80 in the group again but we wheeled Golden Mtn and another trail systems together and I went everywhere he did with no issues and the biggest advantage of the 37's was clearing the pumpkin over the pesky boulders in the middle of a skinny v notch trail that you couldnt get to either side of.
So 35's and some diff armor will keep you in th game just fine.
but the 37s do look good (theres another one of those opinions you are relying on
) provided they have enough lift.
To each his own. I think 37s on no or limited lift look kinda rediculous but for yOHda it works just how he likes it and thats what matters. time to make your own decision.
Good luck, its all about the backspacing to get it right.
Seeing as how we still dont know how you intend to use your truck Im gonna say NOT important but possibly useful.
Nice to have? Sure. Not necessary though.
Ive been on 37'' iroks for the last 3 years but just stepped down to 35'' KM2s and love them.
On road it is much nicer to drive as far as accelleration and braking and back on stock BS it tracks better. I mean, its almost...... um peppy
They do make the trails a bit tamer but I havent seen the obstacle that was 37's only around our trails, leaving those on 35's without chance. You may just have to take 2-3 chances. I just wheeled GSMTR for a week on the KM2s and loved it. Little better throttle response, no loading up the RPMs before forward progress on a ledge, but those are both likely due to stock gearing on both. I followed a good friend who has been my friendly rivalry in the 80 build world and he just went up to 37's in a sense catching up to me and I had just stepped down to 35s. At first I was bummed to be the little 80 in the group again but we wheeled Golden Mtn and another trail systems together and I went everywhere he did with no issues and the biggest advantage of the 37's was clearing the pumpkin over the pesky boulders in the middle of a skinny v notch trail that you couldnt get to either side of.
So 35's and some diff armor will keep you in th game just fine.
but the 37s do look good (theres another one of those opinions you are relying on
) provided they have enough lift.To each his own. I think 37s on no or limited lift look kinda rediculous but for yOHda it works just how he likes it and thats what matters. time to make your own decision.
Good luck, its all about the backspacing to get it right.
Cost wise, you are correct. Otherwise,
You guys crack me up. All of you are getting 37's and 5.29's eventually. The only question is how much money you are going to spend fighting it along the way.
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine
SILVER Star
All things being equal, you will 'probably' work harder wheeling a trail with 35s. Just banging into more obstacles. Of course, for some, that's fun!
We went 37s on our 1995 FZJ80 and have never looked back. You do a lot less approach/hit/reverse/try again with them. Usually. YMMV.
Dave
We went 37s on our 1995 FZJ80 and have never looked back. You do a lot less approach/hit/reverse/try again with them. Usually. YMMV.
Dave
I've wheeled on 33's, 35's and now 37's... To be honest, I have never taken my 80 on 37's somewhere it didn't go on 35's. However, I am now able to be easier on the truck when wheeling...
No, you don't need 37's... but I wouldn't trade them!
No, you don't need 37's... but I wouldn't trade them!
maybe it does look ridiculous. but i love it. low COG and wider for stability just makes more sense to me. 
My last tworigs were 40"mtrs on one tons( tacoma sas w linked suspensions front and rear). I love the 80 on 35s. Wheeling is a challenge on norcal trails again...
Some of u guys are getting a little carried away with bumpstopping all ur up travel away just to run a bigger tire and little to no lift...
Some of u guys are getting a little carried away with bumpstopping all ur up travel away just to run a bigger tire and little to no lift...
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I agree. I think a 4" lift with the cutting required to get 5-6" up travel on 37s would be worth it.
Something else not mentioned is the rolling distance difference between a 35 an a 37 inch tire. This becomes most important when climbing a vertical face of a ledge.
Assuming that the rig has the power and gearing to spin both a 35 has a circumference of 110" while a 37 has 116". That 6" may not sound like much but it can make the difference in whether your rig rolls up a face or not.
Granted the 80 is a heavy rig that will never be a "rock crawler" in the purest sense, but my opinion is that if you can afford the rubber and the suspension to handle them and use them to the fullest advantage, why not.
I dont feel that my travel is the probem with 37s and 2.5" lift, the advantage I see to me having more lift is the belly clearance. I dont have any rear bumpstops at the moment and my fronts are stock. I barely tag the front control arms at full lock and My rears barely rub the inner wheel wells at full stuff. Im not worried about the rub inside the rear wells, it is a smooth surface and bump stops would eliminate it. The only time I have serious rubbing is over high speed fire road whoops where the suspension compresses up the same on both wheels. I just dont haul ass down fire roads. Just my experience.
Im running stock bumpstops in the front and just changed to different energy suspension bumpstops in the stock location in the rear. the rear bumpstops are longer than stock but they collapse to within 1-1.5" of the originals. my fenders and quarters have been opened up to retain the stock uptravel.
if i dont need the extra lift, then why have it?
if i dont need the extra lift, then why have it?
On weither you need the 37's or not, I was in the same boat as some, it was cheaper to get military 37's than to replace my 35's. I like them.
On fitting them - I'll repeat myself again - it depends on the whole vehicle set-up. I'm running longer travel shocks than most and I can get my 37's to touch w/ J"s, 3" bumpstops, 1" body lift and opened up wheel wells when fully articulated. If I just pull the springs and let it sit level on the bumpstops I have over 3" clearance. If I leave my rear sway-bar on - I'm somewhere inbetween. But I have more bumpstop and less clearance than Prophecy on same tires and rims cause he's running shorter shocks.
Here's a comparison from earlier this spring - 33's, 35's, and 37's x 2.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/466033-3-lxs-80-cpmparison-photos.html
What was interesting between Prophecy's rig and mine was how much easier it was for me with the added travel. I'd say having one more locker helped, but I ran stuff w/o it just to make sure he and his ausielocker would be o.k. And he had trouble getting enough tire pressue to prevent slipping in places I didn't have issue - nothing a little bumpage or change of attack angle didn't fix. The other interesting thing was how capable the guys on 35's and even 33's were. I'm blanking on the guys name with the 35's and FOR suspension - but he was a good driver and his truck was well balanced. Course, he was also eyeing up Prophecy's rim/tire combo cause Prophecy was going to beadlocks. MIB's ya' know.
Do you need them - no. Are they nice to have - yes. If I was going w/ new tires, and had only so much money though, I'd rather have 35's and better suspsension set-up than 37's with L's.
On fitting them - I'll repeat myself again - it depends on the whole vehicle set-up. I'm running longer travel shocks than most and I can get my 37's to touch w/ J"s, 3" bumpstops, 1" body lift and opened up wheel wells when fully articulated. If I just pull the springs and let it sit level on the bumpstops I have over 3" clearance. If I leave my rear sway-bar on - I'm somewhere inbetween. But I have more bumpstop and less clearance than Prophecy on same tires and rims cause he's running shorter shocks.
Here's a comparison from earlier this spring - 33's, 35's, and 37's x 2.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/466033-3-lxs-80-cpmparison-photos.html
What was interesting between Prophecy's rig and mine was how much easier it was for me with the added travel. I'd say having one more locker helped, but I ran stuff w/o it just to make sure he and his ausielocker would be o.k. And he had trouble getting enough tire pressue to prevent slipping in places I didn't have issue - nothing a little bumpage or change of attack angle didn't fix. The other interesting thing was how capable the guys on 35's and even 33's were. I'm blanking on the guys name with the 35's and FOR suspension - but he was a good driver and his truck was well balanced. Course, he was also eyeing up Prophecy's rim/tire combo cause Prophecy was going to beadlocks. MIB's ya' know.
Do you need them - no. Are they nice to have - yes. If I was going w/ new tires, and had only so much money though, I'd rather have 35's and better suspsension set-up than 37's with L's.
- Thread starter
- #39
Sounds like where 37s really shine is on all out rock crawling type stuff. Since I'm going the expedition style route with my 80, 35s sound like they should be fine. As long as I can make it through Canyonlands...
Sounds like where 37s really shine is on all out rock crawling type stuff. Since I'm going the expedition style route with my 80, 35s sound like they should be fine. As long as I can make it through Canyonlands...
You can get through Canyonlands stock.
Unless you are an experienced driver, your driving skill will take a while to catch up to an 80 with a moderate lift and 35s. I'd keep it simple, by the time you wear out the tires, you'll know if you want to go bigger.
