What hills have given you problems on 37"s?
Mine goes right up this. From the driver seat:
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From the following rig:
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Cresting the top:
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Ah! Thats not dirt.... Just say'n

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What hills have given you problems on 37"s?
Mine goes right up this. From the driver seat:
![]()
From the following rig:
![]()
Cresting the top:
![]()
Ah! Thats not dirt.... Just say'n![]()
A little off topic but a little on topic, a compromise if you will, is there a good 36" radial option out there? I aware of an Interco bias ply 36", but I haven't seen or heard of a good 36" option.
Interesting that this thread should pop up now... I will soon install J's & long-travel shocks. I'm running older 33's now, and I've been grappling with the decision to stay on 33's when I replace these, or go to 35's. With 35's, I'd need 5 (for the spare), so the cost would be substantially more. I've been wondering how much real benefit a 35 adds when aired down, as compared to a 33 that's equally aired down; and whether that benefit offsets the lower performance on stock gears. Mine is a DD, driven to & from the trails, and occasionally loaded down on mountain roads. Decisions, decisions...
What hills have given you problems on 37"s?
Mine goes right up this. From the driver seat:
![]()
From the following rig:
![]()
Cresting the top:
![]()
As far as wheeling on slickrock I think this says it all Crown Vic on Hell's Revenge- Moab, Utah - YouTube
As far as wheeling on slickrock I think this says it all Crown Vic on Hell's Revenge- Moab, Utah - YouTube
... To me applying brake = loss of control in these situations. ...
If there was a simple/cost effective tcase option out there all of the gearing problems would be solved. Spending the big bucks on gears most of use won't do, and playing with with tcase is much easier than re-gearing the axles in my eyes.
If there was a simple/cost effective tcase option out there all of the gearing problems would be solved. Spending the big bucks on gears most of use won't do, and playing with with tcase is much easier than re-gearing the axles in my eyes.
Or you can just do the 5.29's. Case gears aren't cheap, and lower diff gears are nice, if not required, onroad. There is no reason to overthink this stuff - 5.29 is a low gear ratio and it works very well in all conditions.
I agree that there are trails in Moab that you can take rental heeps or even a crown vic on. But if you believe that all trails are like that, you need more exploring time in the area.
Why? I see brakes as a tool to control wheel speed, rig speed, act as a "quick/cheater locker" to maintain traction, etc. I two foot wheel, so use them almost as much as the throttle on the trail. Going down hill in a big heavy station wagon is going to require brakes, regardless of tire, don't use the brakes much, if any more on the 37"s than did on the 295's.
Agree that the '80 is somewhat under-geared, but it is what it is and actually works pretty well.The auto helps, if it were a standard trans, it would be a bigger problem. I have owned a set of 5.29 gears for a longtime, they are sitting on the shelf, someday I may even install them? But the rig works and I prefer wheeling to wrenching.
Believe it or not, my rig has also gone downhill, using the brakes for smooth, even control, as they were designed to work.
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If you have got to ask... you don't need them.
It's not just the cost of the 37s It's also the gears you will need. If you are running 37s with stock gears you're fooling yourself ( just try some really steep ascents and descents) I feel the gearing on mine is way too high and I'm only running 285s