How Do I Go About Doing A Tune-Up? (1 Viewer)

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Doc

Joined
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I have cap/rotor/plugs/plug wires in hand (OK, in box) from Mr. Dan. (Ok, bought the plugs at Oreily's when I was there earlier this week)..

I've never attempted a tune up myself. My mechanic wants $140 to install all of that stuff and do the tune up, which include the PCV valve. (whatever that is) I'd like to save that cash for the suspension project on the 60.

Is there an online walk through someplace? I don't want to just rip into it and screw something up.
 
And specifically, when advancing the timing will I be turnign the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise when looking at the top of the cap?
 
Nothing terribly difficult about replacing those items, but the spark plug boots can be a little tricky sometimes to remove. It may help to remove the 2 bolts holding the heater valve to the firewall to allow you room to get the #6 boot out.

Shine the timing light on the crank and watch the timing mark move as you turn the distributor. No need to remember which way to turn it to advance the timing.

The walk through is in the service manual. Got a plug gapping tool? Got a plug socket with extension?
 
I do have a gapping tool and plug socket with extension, I've changed the plugs once before, so I'm not worried about that part.

And I do have the FSM, and have been looking in there.

How often does the PCV need to be changed?
 
That last plug is a bitch. If you feel the need to climb up on the engine, be wary of the plastic fitting at the top of the radiator. Break it and you will hear from your wife, " How much money were you trying to save?" It means a new radiator.
 
Change the PCV when it's gummed up and doesn't rattle. Try not to drop the brittle grommet pieces into the intake.
 
I would do each item change seperately a little at a time so you don't have problems with the engine performance and misdiagnose the wrong part of engine. For example, change the plugs first, drive around a day see how well it runs, then change the rotor and dis cap the next day and drive,etc.
This way you can also see how each change affected the vehicle performance and if you have a problem you know where to look. I like to see how much of a difference each improvement makes on the vehicle.
 
While Archie's advice is good for a 1 :banana: DIY, I think the interval could be reduced from a day to maybe 10 minutes. You'll know if you broke something. A tip would be to use a little duct tape to secure the plug socket to the extension when doing #6.

Why are you changing the timing?

-B-
 
from my experience, just change the cap, rotor, wires and plugs -- no need to touch the timing -- unless you want to --

e
 
Agreed, I wouldn't mess around with the timing unless the truck was presenting sympton that would make it necessary.
 
I want to advance the stock timing about 6 degrees to gain power and fuel efficency. (sp?)
 
Doc said:
I want to advance the stock timing about 6 degrees to gain power and fuel efficency. (sp?)


Careful with that. You can cause pre-ignition that could colapse a piston. If you chose to advance it, be prepared to run higher grade fuel as well.
 
cruiserdan said:
If you chose to advance it, be prepared to run higher grade fuel as well.

Thus wiping out any savings from increased mpg. There's no cost effective magic bullet for increased fuel efficiency.
 
MoJ said:
Thus wiping out any savings from increased mpg. There's no cost effective magic bullet for increased fuel efficiency.


Yup is kinda like suck it up and be happy. If you wanna drive an 80 with a fat tractor motor your gonna be grabbing your ankles at the pump. :flipoff2: Just make sure its not junk standing behind you at the pump. :whoops:
 
MoJ said:
Thus wiping out any savings from increased mpg. There's no cost effective magic bullet for increased fuel efficiency.


Well, there is one thing one can do to get more mileage ... install a turbo system; it'll give ya 1.5 to 2.0 mpg more, BUT, i would not call it "cost effective". :flipoff2:
 
turbocruiser said:
Well, there is one thing one can do to get more mileage ... install a turbo system; it'll give ya 1.5 to 2.0 mpg more, BUT, i would not call it "cost effective". :flipoff2:


Might not be cost effective but there is nothing to compare to listening to that spool up....

:D :D :D
 
Ok, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are in. It was cake. Truck still starts and runs fine. Whew!

I did not check the PCV, mostly because I have no idea where it's located, and didn't have time to look in the FSM before starting on the fluids in the 60 (all diffs and transfer case, will do tranny tomorrow).

Didn't touch the timing, mostly because I don't own a timing light! ;p

Hey, I checked my tranny fluid in the 80 and it showed 'HOT' full, not 'COLD' full, I'm guessing it's overfull? I found the drain bolt, but where is the add port? Dip stick tube is too small.....

Oh, and there appeared to be oil on plugs 5 and 6, what might cause that?
 
Doc, did you do the full voodoo routine -shifting etc- when checking the trans fluid?
E
 
oil on the spark plugs could mean worn piston rings or valves.Oil could be leaking past the rings or valves into the combustion chamber. check those plugs again later to see how bad it gets. Do you have problems with misfiring, hesitation or hard starts?
 
Oil on the spark plug electrodes or on the insulator?
electrodes is rings or valve stem seals.
oil on the top part of the plug is a valve cover gasket. Specifically, the ring that goes around the plug hole. A little is not much to worry about. Wet plugs and/ or swollen spark plug boots is.

You add ATF through the dipstick tube. Get a long skinny funnel. They make them just for that.

The PCV is right in the middle of the valve cover. You have a vacuum hose going to it. Don't mess with it now if you are going to do the valve cover gasket later. It's very simple to change unless the grommet breaks into pieces and falls down in the valve cover.

I have much better performance from advancing the timing. It is something best done correctly.
 

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