How do I test my center diff lock actuator motor with a 9V battery? (1 Viewer)

[bicycleagent003]

Yeah, bad luck here on the CDL after my T case reinstall. I have the EWD for the CDL, but I'm having a hard time understanding it.
I'd like to check the operation of my CDL motor with a 9V battery. I have read that I can connect the 9V battery to the 6 pin plug (only five in use) coming off the CDL actuator motor. If you know, could you tell me what pins I connect to Neg and Pos on the 9V to cycle the actuator? I also don't see an indication on the six pin plug coming off the actuator as to which pin is what number. Could you post a pic or tell me which way they're numbered?

Thanks for the help.

 

[bhsdriller]

Quick search. There's a diagram and some good notes

locker actuator 9 volt test???

In the past I read about how to test the actuator/motor of the lockers using a 9V battery. Can't seem to find that thread. If anyone can give me a quick run down on how to do it I would appreciate it. Thanks, Dave

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[CriticalBill]

Could you post a pic or tell me which way they're numbered?

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks, guys. I am able to cycle my CDL actuator motor both with the switch in the dash and the 9V battery, but I can't get it to unlock. I've got the wheels in the air, and I'm trying to unstick the front and rear rotations of the drive shafts/wheels with no luck. I cycled the motor to the unlocked position, put the switch in the dash in the unlocked position with the truck off, then plugged the actuator motor back into the harness. No luck.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

[Shipwreck]

Did you lock the center diff lock in the transfer case before removing the actuator motor?
The FSM recommends removal and replacement in the locked position. The actuator and the transfer case must be synced when returning the motor. Meaning, make sure the actuator is in the fully locked position and make sure the toothed gear in the transfer case is also fully extended in the locked position.
See this thread for details:
Removing and reinstalling the CDL actuator - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-and-reinstalling-the-cdl-actuator.1322674/

 

[bicycleagent003]

Did you lock the center diff lock in the transfer case before removing the actuator motor?
The FSM recommends removal and replacement in the locked position. The actuator and the transfer case must be synced when returning the motor. Meaning, make sure the actuator is in the fully locked position and make sure the toothed gear in the transfer case is also fully extended in the locked position.
See this thread for details:
Removing and reinstalling the CDL actuator - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-and-reinstalling-the-cdl-actuator.1322674/

Thank you very much for that help. I did not reinstall mine in the locked position, the fork in the T Case or the actuator motor. That was a mistake. I think I'm going to end up having to pull the actuator motor off the top of the case and manually lock it, do the same with the motor, and reinstall it. They seem to be out of sync. Thanks for sharing that thread. I didn't find that one through search.

 

[jonheld]

Fwiw, locked or unlocked makes no difference, as long as the shift fork in the transfer case is in sync with the motor.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Yeah, if I were smarter I would have done all this on my garage floor. Doh...

 

[Shipwreck]

Fwiw, locked or unlocked makes no difference, as long as the shift fork in the transfer case is in sync with the motor.

True.
The other important thing aside from making sure both are in sync, is to make sure your gear on the transfer case is fully extended (locked or unlocked) and that it doesn't rotate while you are fumbling to get the actuator back in place. It's easy to be off by a couple teeth if things move.
Been there, done that...

 

[joxeale]

I had this issue a few days ago, when I opened the motor, I got about 3 pounds of beachsand come out. Ordered an Aisin replacement and its working like a charm now. They're not cheap tho! Around 500$. Hope yours is salvageable.

The issue it could probably be having is the magnets that attach to the housing fell off and need to be glued (JB welded) back in place. To my understanding, if the're touching the coil, they will not work. Also, give it a good clean inside, more than likely moisture got in and seized everything in there.