How do I choose a chain for my saw?

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e9999

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So, I have a Stihl 025 with an 18" bar. It's been very good to me indeed, but I also now have a 290 with a 20" so I'm thinking about putting a shorter bar on the 025 for the little jobs, pruning trees etc. 14", maybe 12"? A poor man's arborist saw if you will...

My current chain is a Stihl Rapid Micro, 0.325", 63 thous gauge.

Since I will change both bar and chain, I can conceivably choose something else. Of course, if I change the pitch I'll need a new sprocket (see other thread).

So, how do I go about choosing a new chain and bar combo? What are the rules of thumbs? Does the pitch matter? When to choose a 3/8 vs a 0.325? Isn't the 325 somewhat of an odd size?

Some are more kickbacky than other?

Stick with Stihl or Oregon etc OK?

12" or 14"?

Too many out there... Need expert advice...
 
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thanks, but what does it all mean?

e.g. is a .325 better than a 3/8?
the heavier the gauge the better?
different shapes of teeth make a big difference?
fine to use aftermarket bars and chains in practice?

How do you guys choose your chains? Or do you just follow a table like that one?

unfortunately, according to that table there isn't a 12" or 14" with a 325 pitch (or do these only list "recommended" combos with more to be had?). So that means a sprocket change. Which if needed anyway opens up other possibilities too.
 
If you look under 3/8" picco, you'll see 12"-16" bars that will fit your saw.

Under the .325 chain, you'll see 16" and 18" bar and chains for your 025.

I would use Stihl bar and chains. The recommended chain you want is 63pmc-xx (where xx is # of links)
6 = pitch, Stihl Picco
3 = gauge .050
P = cutter type (picco)
M = cutter shape (Micro)
C = cutter shape (comfort)
xx = # of links of chain

3/8" picco chain is used the smaller sized Stihl saws.

I have/used RSC (Rapid, super chisel, comfort). RSC chain is a full chisel chain.


thanks, but what does it all mean?

e.g. is a .325 better than a 3/8?
the heavier the gauge the better?
different shapes of teeth make a big difference?
fine to use aftermarket bars and chains in practice?

How do you guys choose your chains? Or do you just follow a table like that one?

unfortunately, according to that table there isn't a 12" or 14" with a 325 pitch (or do these only list "recommended" combos with more to be had?). So that means a sprocket change. Which if needed anyway opens up other possibilities too.
 
yes, thanks. That 3/8" picco pitch does seem different than the regular 3/8s for some reason. Odd.

and too bad cuz I have some new 3/8" Oregon chains that I would not mind using after shortening them, which may not be possible if the 3/8Picco sprocket pitch is different.

looks like the regular 3/8" is more common for bigger saws than the 0.325 pitch.
 
interesting reading, these guys know about this stuff...
 
well, I officially have to admit I can't make any sense of this chain business.

Surprisingly, I saw on the Oregon website that the shorter bars for my 025 are all for 3/8 chains. Whereas the bigger 290 is all 325. Naively I thought that more powerful chainsaws would use bigger links. I guess not.

On top of that the bar lengths seem very iffy. My "18" " Stihl bar is a bit under 17". What's with that? did it shrink? :)

And the same bar "length" for different models can have different number of links too apparently (for the same pitch).

Overall, seems like you can't mix and match too easily with this stuff.
 
well, I officially have to admit I can't make any sense of this chain business.

Surprisingly, I saw on the Oregon website that the shorter bars for my 025 are all for 3/8 chains. Whereas the bigger 290 is all 325. Naively I thought that more powerful chainsaws would use bigger links. I guess not.

On top of that the bar lengths seem very iffy. My "18" " Stihl bar is a bit under 17". What's with that? did it shrink? :)

And the same bar "length" for different models can have different number of links too apparently (for the same pitch).

Overall, seems like you can't mix and match too easily with this stuff.

MS 290 can use either .325 or 3/8" pitch chain depending on which bar you use.

The 16" bar for the 025/MS250 is about 1 inch shorter than a 16" Rollomatic ES bar. Bars have different shape which would account for differences in the # of links.

I would not be a cheap a$$ and buy some off brand bar and chain. Spend a little extra and buy Stihl.
 
well, I just find myself cutting a lot more small stuff (like 3 or 4") than big stuff and I have the 290 with a 20" bar for the latter if needed. So I thought I'd put on a small bar on the 025 for the small stuff. Easier to maneuver. Maybe even climb in a tree every so often (with all due precautions obviously). A somewhat unwieldy 2-handed poor man's arborist saw if you'd like.
Part of it is that I have a small Homelite too that is much lighter and a shorter bar and I find it a pleasure to use, so I'm tempted to go small with the 025.



(Anybody needs some 3/8 .050" 55 links new chains? Or heck, trade an arborist saw for the 025?)
 
essentially the mower powerful the saw and the smaller the chain/shorter the bar the quicker your cut.

A few of the guys that work at stihl use ms 660's with 18" bars and .325 chain. Talk about a razor blade through hot butter. They used th 3/8 picco for a while but kept breaking chains.


I don't have the stihl book infront of me but i'm pretty sure you can fit a 14" bar (possibly 12") on the sthil 025 and run a 3/8 picco chain.

You will also have to switch the sprocket to 3/8 picco. The bar/sprocket/chain must all be a match set.

It will be a fast cutting little saw.

I wouldn't use it as a climbing saw as these saws were not intended to be used at various angels and can cause running issues (alot of fouled plugs in teh ms170's) that i'm sure might show up in the 025 as well.

I would not recomend putting a big 3/8 chain on the 025...on the ms290 it's pushing it.

It robs the saws of lots of power, these saws run best when they are allowed to rev.
 

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