How did you power your accessories? (1 Viewer)

[junior80]

What have you got? Uhf or ham radio, inverters, fridges, lights, winch, etc and what powers it? Cranking batt or dual batt?

There must be a guide for what should draw power from the cranking or an aux deep cycle battery, what should be fused, what needs a relay and so on.

How is it switched, have you got a Nice panel you made up that you want to show off? Maybe you have repurposed an original yota button or switch?

So far the only accessories I have are spotlights- fused and relayed from high beams
USB charger powered from the cig lighter- accessory power
Uhf radio (will be) powered from aux deep cycle batt and switched with accessories. Unless there is a more sensible way to do it?

 

[midfat]

Many will say it's expensive, and it is, but damn if it doesn't make short order of wiring accessories! The 4x4spod is the shiznit! Plug and play for even the most common moles system.

 

[Tools R Us]

Just plug it in!

 

[LS1FJ40]

Dual batteries. Blue Sea 12 slot fuse panel. Blue Sea 80 amp breaker. Morningstar Sun Saver 20 solar controller. Siemens 100watt solar panel (sitting in garage...)

I have a 80 qt fridge, 400w inverter (will upgrade to 2000 watt when $$$ allows), aux USB ports, four front roof rack HIDs, two rear roof rack LEDs (camp/backup lights). Will be adding fog lights to the front bumper when $$$ allows.

All accessories run off of the house battery. The main battery runs the truck as it came from the factory. Lights are switched with repurposed OEM switches.

All wiring is Anchor Marine brand marine grade wiring with waterproof connections and marine heat shrink.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Rough lay out.

Finished lay out. This is before I added the rear lights and inverter.

 

[Marine7]

Rough lay out.

View attachment 1384933

Finished lay out. This is before I added the rear lights and inverter.

View attachment 1384934

looks good! I was at West Marine yesterday picking up my aux fuse box (6 slot) and I was checking out the solar panels too. Would a 45 watt panel be enough to power my ARB fridge/freezer? And when you ran your blue seas aux box, did you run ground back to battery or to frame? I'm mounting mine under passenger seat, and at $2.50/ft I was hoping I could ground it to the frame!

 

[Malleus]

Take a look at all of your accessories. Get a pen and paper and write down all the current draw specs (xxx amps). Add them up and multiply by the battery voltage; use 14V for safety's sake. The result is the wattage your "system" develops (W = V x I). Round up to the next even wattage panel commercially available.

Frame is ground, always. Remember fuses are supposed to fail so your expensive stuff doesn't.

 

[Malleus]

Rough lay out.

View attachment 1384933

Finished lay out. This is before I added the rear lights and inverter.

View attachment 1384934

Clean that washer tank, please!

 

[Kaninja]

I power my Ham & CB radios directly from battery. This year comes LED lights front & rear, a winch, and second battery. Definitely looking at this thread for ideas. LS1FJ40 setup looks really nice.

 

[MDarius]

Clean that washer tank, please!

Don't judge him by the washer tank. You should see the rest of his truck!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

KISS
All wiring done with hidden automatic reseting circuit breaker. Set it up and forget about it.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Clean that washer tank, please!

I tried. It's stained from the PO.

Don't judge him by the washer tank. You should see the rest of his truck!

True. This is the least of my concerns. You've seen my paint. The duct tape. The leather.

Funny thing is I have a washer bottle and bladder from a 92 (aka JDM washer bottle and bladder) to install in the 93 but it's such a low priority it is just sitting there.

 

[LS1FJ40]

looks good! I was at West Marine yesterday picking up my aux fuse box (6 slot) and I was checking out the solar panels too. Would a 45 watt panel be enough to power my ARB fridge/freezer? And when you ran your blue seas aux box, did you run ground back to battery or to frame? I'm mounting mine under passenger seat, and at $2.50/ft I was hoping I could ground it to the frame!

I ran it to the battery since it was right there but I believe you can run it to the frame. Check out @NLXTACY's thread on the under seat mounting he did. He copied someone else's idea and put the OCD touch to it.

I just copied his under hood setup.

I would look at the Morningstar 100watt solar panel setups. They are very reasonable (under $200 on amazon). Lots of guys use them. That is what I will be going to this spring. They make a foldable version that you can plug in when you get to camp and point directly at the sun to maximize efficiency. To me, 45watt isn't worth the effort. I don't know if it would keep up with your fridge or not.

 

[NLXTACY]

Funny thing is I have a washer bottle and bladder from a 92 (aka JDM washer bottle and bladder) to install in the 93 but it's such a low priority it is just sitting there.

I have the other stuff you will need to make that work. PM me and I'll send it over to you. Its just collecting dust on my shelf.

 

[FJP971]

KISS
All wiring done with hidden automatic reseting circuit breaker. Set it up and forget about it.

@LandCruiserPhil , are you using something like this: 12V Auto Reset Automotive Circuit Breakers - Plastic with Parallel Bracket ? What do you have them mounted to/on? In an overload situation will these continually pulse electricity to the connected circuit every time they reset? I've never used something like this so I don't know much about their function. Thanks and hope your response helps this thread.

 

[stevezero]

Just plug it in!

I bet your significant other hates it when that piece of equipment leaves the house. LOLOL

 

[1973Guppie]

I used a relay to power a blue sea fuse box mounted on the drivers side. The relay is powered via a tap at the stock fuse box on a key hot circuit. This keeps everything neat and orderly and I can remove / add accessories easily. Everything from that box is key hot. For the always on circuits I have them going to the spare house battery on the passenger side. I may in the future add another fuse box to be constant power over there but the inline fuses are working fine for now.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

@LandCruiserPhil , are you using something like this: 12V Auto Reset Automotive Circuit Breakers - Plastic with Parallel Bracket ? What do you have them mounted to/on? In an overload situation will these continually pulse electricity to the connected circuit every time they reset? I've never used something like this so I don't know much about their function. Thanks and hope your response helps this thread.

Very close see pic. for anything 30A and under then I use larger breaker up to 100A without auto reset but with a positive off lever
The smaller are screwed down to the tunnel under the center console and the larger breaker is mounted to the battery box as close as possible to the source.
Overload or short completely different issue but a breaker protects both. In the event of a overload it will shut off and clear until the overload is present again.

Every connection is one more place for failure so keeping it simple but protected will produce the most reliable system.

 

[Marine7]

Take a look at all of your accessories. Get a pen and paper and write down all the current draw specs (xxx amps). Add them up and multiply by the battery voltage; use 14V for safety's sake. The result is the wattage your "system" develops (W = V x I). Round up to the next even wattage panel commercially available.

Frame is ground, always. Remember fuses are supposed to fail so your expensive stuff doesn't.

Frame is ground..... right....... but not a"good" ground! Most "hi draw" components (large investors, winch, etc) recommend running ground (same size as power) back to source ground....I.e. Battery. Otherwise..... if you go off the "frame is ground" theory, your working the components harder than need be, which equals..... shorter life. (Working harder = running hotter)

 

[Marine7]

I ran it to the battery since it was right there but I believe you can run it to the frame. Check out @NLXTACY's thread on the under seat mounting he did. He copied someone else's idea and put the OCD touch to it.

I just copied his under hood setup.

I would look at the Morningstar 100watt solar panel setups. They are very reasonable (under $200 on amazon). Lots of guys use them. That is what I will be going to this spring. They make a foldable version that you can plug in when you get to camp and point directly at the sun to maximize efficiency. To me, 45watt isn't worth the effort. I don't know if it would keep up with your fridge or not.

I'll look into the Morningstar panels! Thanks! I want to mount them on my roof rack permanently, but build a mount that can "lean and turn" the panel as needed. Obviously they would lay down flat for movement.