How did you power your accessories?

[Kamster]

As a habit, I just ground the heck out of everything. I run extra grounds from the battery to the frame, from the engine to the frame, and the frame to the body. I used to run a samurai with an engine swap and spent some long nights chasing electrical demons that were a result of poor grounds.

For my sub-panel I plan on running dedicated ground buss to the frame and then make sure I have a 1/0 cable from the frame to the battery.

 

[NC LX]

WHAT HAVE YOU GOT ?..................PART III
6. GPS Mount & Outlet plug for the Yeoman Chart Plotter:
Mount for a Garmin GPS 75, also a small Garmin Gecko piggy-backs on it and that round MIL spec switch below between the sub-tank switch and the rear AC switch, provides both data transfer & power to/from chart plotter to GPS......and yes, I still use paper charts for navigation 1:250,000, nothing beats them in my opinion, but that's another argument/thread. No drilling required for either
View attachment 1419166

7.Engine Bay :
Simple wiring to battery terminals only. I've had this set-up for the last 20+ years and not a single snitch so far.
View attachment 1419167
END OF EVERYTHING

Rear air and sub tank... I have 80 envy! Very Nice Setup

 

[decoco]

I'm very green on this type of stuff, and I've read all this looking for a setup for my 24v 77.

I need to run and install an ARB compressor and AUX lights -lights are installed (p.o) but don't work. + could use running an auxiliary install to the rear. Dual battery setup, naturally.

at the same time down the line I have a need for installing a winch on the fzj, wiring for the fridge as well.

I'm on team 3rd world here and I think both these requirements could be done simply?

 

[Classic85]

Very close see pic. for anything 30A and under then I use larger breaker up to 100A without auto reset but with a positive off lever
The smaller are screwed down to the tunnel under the center console and the larger breaker is mounted to the battery box as close as possible to the source.
Overload or short completely different issue but a breaker protects both. In the event of a overload it will shut off and clear until the overload is present again.

Every connection is one more place for failure so keeping it simple but protected will produce the most reliable system.

@LandCruiserPhil why only 30 amp and under? Then from 30 to 100 with reset-able? I have my dual compressor set to 2x 40amp non reset-able, will this be an issue?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I kept mine simple.....

Dual batts with a 700Amp solenoid to connect them using 1Ga cable.

All accessories connected to the primary batt and nothing connected to the secondary batt (except the switch used to energize the solenoid in the event of a dead primary batt).

Accessories include:

5 camera video surveillance system that runs 24/7
Mobile theater with multiple screens, amps, subwoofers, etc.
AC/DC inverter
200 psi OBA with dual compressors
Sh!t ton of off road auxiliary and strobe lighting (more than the average bear)
Custom heavy duty jumper cables with 1000Amp clamps and Anderson connectors
Front and rear winches

 

[FJP971]

Time to wake this thread back up! I'm getting close to installing my dual battery setup and I had a question or two. Blue Sea shows a fuse on the A and B lines (wires from the ACR to each battery) and according to their fuse guideline for #2 cable I should be using a 150A fuse.

Selecting the Appropriate Fuse Rating When Installing the 120A SI ACR - Blue Sea Systems

Any reason I couldn't use the Blue Sea 7189 150A circuit breaker in place of the fuses? And can this circuit breaker be manually tripped using that red button?

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Surface-Circuit/dp/B0051OWRHE/?tag=ihco-20

 

[LS1FJ40]

Time to wake this thread back up! I'm getting close to installing my dual battery setup and I had a question or two. Blue Sea shows a fuse on the A and B lines (wires from the ACR to each battery) and according to their fuse guideline for #2 cable I should be using a 150A fuse.

View attachment 1614733

Selecting the Appropriate Fuse Rating When Installing the 120A SI ACR - Blue Sea Systems

Any reason I couldn't use the Blue Sea 7189 150A circuit breaker in place of the fuses? And can this circuit breaker be manually tripped using that red button?

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Surface-Circuit/dp/B0051OWRHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516324176&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+7189&th=1

I cannot speak to the 150amp necessity or not. But I can tell you that I used a Blue Sea circuit breaker for mine. Mine needed an 80 amp. And yes, you can manually trip it to disconnect power to your accessories, if desired.

 

[FJP971]

I cannot speak to the 150amp necessity or not. But I can tell you that I used a Blue Sea circuit breaker for mine. Mine needed an 80 amp. And yes, you can manually trip it to disconnect power to your accessories, if desired.

I saw that you used them between the battery and your power distribution block but did you use them for the ACR circuit too, assuming that is what you are using?

 

[LS1FJ40]

I saw that you used them between the battery and your power distribution block but did you use them for the ACR circuit too, assuming that is what you are using?

No. I didn’t. I am using the ACR.

Crap. Hope I’m not supposed to. Maybe someone much smarter than me will chime in!

 

[chap79]

The instructions for the 7611 do say to fuse the connections, probably because it doesn’t link them for emergency purposes. The 7622 says to not fuse the links IF the house battery will be used to combine in emergencies.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/980011740.pdf

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf

 

[chap79]

In a nutshell the fuses are to protect the 7611 ACR from shorts since it is only for 120A and is not designed to link the battles together for starting purposes. That said, you can link the batteries via jumper cables and still do the same thing in the event of an emergency.

The 7622 ACR is rated at 500A continuous use with 2/0 cables and provides th ability to link the batteries for combined use. I choose the 7622 so that I could combine the batteries for winching with the added benefit of being able to remote starting via a flip of a switch. It’s a steep(er) price to pay for that feature but when needed I’m sure with pay for itself 10 fold.

So it really comes down to what features you want when it comes to a dual battery setup. When I read through the amp ratings of many of the major manufacturers the Blue Sea 7622 was really the only one that provided what I wanted. Other’s needs may vary.

 

[FJP971]

In a nutshell the fuses are to protect the 7611 ACR from shorts since it is only for 120A and is not designed to link the battles together for starting purposes. That said, you can link the batteries via jumper cables and still do the same thing in the event of an emergency.

The 7622 ACR is rated at 500A continuous use with 2/0 cables and provides th ability to link the batteries for combined use. I choose the 7622 so that I could combine the batteries for winching with the added benefit of being able to remote starting via a flip of a switch. It’s a steep(er) price to pay for that feature but when needed I’m sure with pay for itself 10 fold.

So it really comes down to what features you want when it comes to a dual battery setup. When I read through the amp ratings of many of the major manufacturers the Blue Sea 7622 was really the only one that provided what I wanted. Other’s needs may vary.

Thanks for the feedback. I already have the 7610 combo with the big red dial so combining batteries will still be pretty easy. So I'm guessing I can use the circuit breaker in place of the fuses for those lines. My question is should I get the 100 amp or 150? The 7610 is rated to 120 so it seem like the 150amp cb would be too much and would allow a short to damage the ACR. Thoughts?

 

[chap79]

Or get 120A breakers
Resettable Circuit Breaker Cooper Bussmann (25-150A) | Powerwerx

Blue Sea also has a great circuit wizard that will give you a spreadsheet report of what products to use for your application. You can also give them a call (phone, whaaaaat ) and get their recommend.

 

[Pat80]

Ive added a few bits and pieces since this, but its basic and works well.

Main starter battery still in engine bay, just runs factory fitted stuff and winch, 100 amp fuses either end of the 0 guage wire into the cargo part, into the Ctek system which has solar input should i choose. Then three aux fuse panels ( 2 12psn holders in rear and a 6psn one in drivers area. Runs a 40L engel and an 8L cooler, heaps of cig sockets, LED camp lights, water pump etc