How about a Cargo box sticky? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 7, 2005
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Romer,

Since we've got stickies on front bumpers, rear bumpers, sliders, etc, how bout you guys open a sticky for rear storage? Pics, construction methods, mounting, electrical, and any gadgets/extras people might have used on their rigs.
 

davegonz

Keeping it Weird
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I second that...going to build one up soon.
 

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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They aren't stickies but threads in the FAQ. I already said I was going to do dual battery setups, storage ideas and I can't remember what else. I don't want to do it all at once.

Patience young grasshopper.
 
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Cool deal. I'm sooo patient, I havent even begun to start building mine ;)

I'm looking to finish my design on my cargo box, with the following items.

3/4" birch ply for the deck (freebie thanks to my unknowing wonderful employer at $47.90 a sheet). I'd like that to span the width of the rear, resting on top of the fenderwells, and mounting to the factory 3rd row nutserts.

1x8 or 1x10 Lowe's top choice for the vertical supports, dado'd, glued and screwed to the deck.

2 drawers constructed of 1x6 or 1x8 top choice (depending on which I use above)

debating on one large, one small, with a smaller third sliding drawer inside of one drawer for small stuff(gloves, nitrile gloves, first aid kit). I've already got that drawer (leftover from building my house).

drawers will be dado'd to accept the drawer floor, and dovetailed/glued (if my coworkers hubby pulls thru for me)

floors for the large drawers: 1/4 birch ply, braced with 1x1 or 1x2 every 18 inches or so. I was also thinking of 1/4 inch diamond plate alum. I'd be more concerned with vibration noise from the diamond plate, but like the fluid protection.

Slides will be 30 inch HP/Compaq ball bearing server slides that can hold 250lbs a pair.

I may run some flat steel across the bottom of the box frame to mount the base to the third row seat mounts (saw that in ROTW post). I'd also use that to stiffen the frame.

All wood(frame/drawers, and deck) would be sealed after assembly with spar varnish for waterproofing/warp protection. Gorilla glue or elmers yellow for all the joints. Galvanized deck screws and stainless steel for the hardware.

Deck would be covered in 1/4" commercial floorunderlayment foam, and then wrapped in carpet to match(as close as possible)

Alum C channel at the rear to dress up the edge. Possibly some small alum runners to minimize wear on the carpet.



Optional stuff, looking for ideas/suggestions.

Hinged/ recessed cargo hooks. Possibly on tracks for adjustibility. the tracks might be more pain than it's worth.


Latches: Not sure if I want latches that will lock the drawers to keep them from sliding out when the tailgate is down. I've got locks that I could use for latches if I feel a need to go that route. They are a bit of a pain though, key cant come out when unlocked.

Top access: a hinged panel over the drawer that would hold frequently used items. Panel would be supported from underneath so it doesnt collapse under weight. This way, I wouldnt have to drop the tailgate to get something small.

Two small access hatches on either side in the gap between the fenderwell and tailgate. pair of small storage cubbies that would otherwise be wasted space.

Small LED or flashlight lighting (either on contact switches inside drawers or simple on/off switch) inside the drawers to light up when opened. Not a major necessity. I've got more flashlights than I know what to do with......

Electrical will get a fused single or pair of 4-8 guage feeds, with CLA's and possibly a secondary fuse panel.


Since I plan on keeping a 2 1/4 ton floor jack in the truck for tire changes, I'd like to mount an mv-50 compressor in the factory jack location. Ive got a 25ft coil cord with quick connects that should reach anywhere on the truck.

If it would fit, I'd also like to build a small hinged panel or slides to mount my 48inch hilift in the front of the cargo box right behind the seats. Would keep it out of the weather, safe from theft, yet accessable by flipping the seats forward and accessing it. If I know I'm going somewhere and will need it, I can always mount it to the roof rack with the shovel...

Stuff going in the boxes:

Tools:
Socket set
Wrenches
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Multimeter
4way lug wrench
2 1/4 ton floor jack
Extracftion gear Recovery ropes, D-Rings, gloves
Trailer hitch

Parts stuff:
Coil Air hose for compressor(could stay in the jack panel)
Cheapy coleman compressor(for now until I can source an MV50)
jumper cables
spare belts
PHH and clamps
qt of M1 5-30
Fuses in the glovebox

Misc stuff:
Road flares
Fire extinguisher
Tie down straps
Bungee cords
Fleece blanket/emergency foil blanket
Fleece hunting gloves/beanie cap
Rain Gear
Rags/towel
Extra old jeans/shirt/thin coverall (for roadside repairs)
Washable seat cover (for roadside repairs)
Nitrile gloves
Mechanix gloves
Tie wraps
Velcro tie wraps
Waterproof matches
TP in a ziplock bag (the most important thing)


Oh yeah, the kitchen sink too :D
 
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Joined
May 7, 2005
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South Jordan, UT
Wow. That sounds like a deluxe cargo box. Be sure to post photos as you build.
For those of us with 1st grade carpentry skills, I'll post photos of my ghetto box as I build ;) .

Hayes
 
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i have pre K carpentry skills.........so this should be interesting.... my coworkers hubby has a full woodworkin shop, so I'm going to have him do the dado's and the routing.

I'll do pics as I go along. I've got so much going on at work, that it might have to take a backseat for a while.
 
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Grass Valley CA
wow........good luck
 

cruiserdan

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This has been addressed in outfitting already. Perhaps a pointer file?
 

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