Hose Clamps, Constant Tension type

[GA Architect]

My OEM radiator has sprung a few leaks, thus I'm replacing it with another OEM unit. I'll also be replacing all four coolant hoses for my '77 FJ40. And with the new hoses, I'd like to use constant tension clamps on them if possible. Does anyone know of any Toyota Part numbers that could replace the original wire clamps?

These are the wire hose clamps specified that I'd like to replace:
96112-10250 (ID=25)
96112-10330 (ID=33)
90460-49062 (ID=49)
96111-10500 (ID=50)
90460-58013 (ID=58)

Note, I believe the ID number above is the inside diameter with the clamp open all the way.

 

[GA Architect]

Here are some pics....
worm drive clamp indention on a radiator hose:

leaking radiator:

 

[iptman]

Why don't you want to use the Toyota wire clamps? They seem to work pretty well.

 

[drnekFJ40]

I just looked yesterday at the SOR website-they are selling the 4 hose radiator kit with blue clamps which supposed to be a little easier on the hoses ....Rick,how old is the radiator?

 

[65swb45]

@crustycruise , there’s your clamp list!

Rick, do you have a pic of the clamp you’re considering?

 

[tlc762]

Why not go the the stainless factory style clamps that @Racer65 sells...

 

[GA Architect]

I just looked yesterday at the SOR website-they are selling the 4 hose radiator kit with blue clamps which supposed to be a little easier on the hoses ....Rick,how old is the radiator?

Radiator - about 4 years old.

Clamps I was using; a combination of the OEM screw drive wire clamps and a few AWAB 316 stainless steel marine clamps. Did have all OEM screw drive wire clamps, but the two up top (thermo to radiator) leaked. Thus I replaced just those two with the AWAB clamps.

 

[GA Architect]

@crustycruise , there’s your clamp list!

Rick, do you have a pic of the clamp you’re considering?

@Solace in Solitude uses this one.....

@wngrog uses these up top......

 

[GA Architect]

Why don't you want to use the Toyota wire clamps? They seem to work pretty well.

I have them all in my engine bay right now.....less the two that leaked on the top radiator hose, 16571-61040. There were a few others that leaked, but they were removed and received the AWAB 316 clamps as replacements.

It seems that if available, the constant tension clamps could be a better option?

 

[S4Cruiser]

I use those same clamps up top like @wngrog ...probably got them from the same place/person!

 

[wngrog]

@beno turned me on to those clamps. I just use them on the top hose. Super clean. Love the look. I use wire clamps on every other place

 

[NMC_EXP]

I had a career in rubber materials technology. One negative factor with rubber is that when used in compression, all types have some degree of permanent compression set. That is when rubber is compressed and held in that condition for extended periods of time then the compression load is removed the rubber object will not return to its original dimension. Generally, the hotter the environment, and the higher the amount of compression, the higher the permanent compression set will be.

The standardized material test for this parameter is ASTM D395. An good explanation of compression set is here Investigating the compression set of rubber compounds

The amount of compression set specific rubber compounds varies widely. It can range from 10% to 40%. Compression set is particularly important in sealing applications. The sealing force exerted by the rubber is a function of how much that piece of rubber has been "squeezed" and permanent set reduces that number.

There are big differences in the quality of rubber compounds used by various suppliers. On top of that add big differences in how parts are made with those compounds. Differences that can make compression set even worse. The lesson here is to buy high quality, name brand rubber components.

After that long winded background info back to the OP's question: In theory, a constant load hose clamp would counteract the effect of compression set.

However: (1) The two wire Toyota clamps are known to work great. Compared to conventional worn screw clamps they provide higher unit loading (more sealing force) under the wires as opposed to spreading the load over a 10mm wide band. (2) If it's a low quality hose the type of clamp and amount of torque put on it may not matter. (3) If the mating metal parts are corroded and rough then hose quality and clamp design may not matter.

Another thing - when a hose if leaking take a close look to determine if the leak path is (1) Between the hose ID and mating metal part OD, or (2) Coming thru the hose itself. If the hose liner is cracked or split the fluid can get into the hose and follow the reinforcing fabric to the end of the hose.

In case you're wondering, yes I do miss my job.

 

[65swb45]

Interesting. I just have a hard time getting my head around a clamp I can not ‘secure ‘ myself. Maybe it’s a control thing.

I’ve always been a worm screw guy, and had good luck with them. Interestingly enough, I have never had an issue with the upper radiator hose. Maybe just coincidence, but I run double clamps on that hose, but not for the reasons you think.

That is how I carry my spare clamps, so I know exactly where to find them when I need them.

 

[GA Architect]

Interesting. I just have a hard time getting my head around a clamp I can not ‘secure ‘ myself. Maybe it’s a control thing.

I’ve always been a worm screw guy, and had good luck with them. Interestingly enough, I have never had an issue with the upper radiator hose. Maybe just coincidence, but I run double clamps on that hose, but not for the reasons you think.

That is how I carry my spare clamps, so I know exactly where to find them when I need them.

 

[wngrog]

I just do them because they look nice.
The rubber tech though was interesting.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

1. Before removing the hose, check the depth of the inserting portion and the clamp position in order to restore it surely.
2. change a deformed or dented clamp for a new one.
3. in case of reusing the hose, install the clamp on the hose where it has a clamp track.
4. for a spring type clamp, adjust it by adding force to the arrow mark direction after the installation.

From Toyota TSB ( technical bulletin 1999 )

 

[crustycruise]

Thanks GA Architect for the part numbers and @65swb45 for the heads up!

 

[Helipilot]

Thanks Rick for starting this thread...I learned a lot from the posts of the other mud members, so thanks to all.

 

[GA Architect]

Thanks to all, and a special shout out to @RAGINGMATT.

FWIW - here is a wire clamp to constant tension band clamp conversion based on some research:

wire hose clamps => constant tension band clamps
96112-10250 (ID=25) => 90467-21010 (lite gauge 90467-22004)
96112-10330 (ID=33) => 96134-52600
90460-49062 (ID=49) => 90466-41003 or 90466-A0026
96111-10500 (ID=50) => 90466-41003 or 90466-A0026
90460-58013 (ID=58) =>

NOTE: I'm not advocating using these "Constant Tension Band Clamps" in lieu of the OEM wire hose clamps. Every person has their own opinion as to what type of clamp is better to use, thus take my list with a grain of salt.