Holley Sniper EFI install

[cruiserlad]

I just put a sniper on my rig '72 FJ40. I also sprung for the HyperSpark dissy, CDI box and coil. I haven't started it yet! to cold to drive it anyway. I'm really interested to see if you have any driveablity issues with the manual xmissn. From the postings I've read some have had problems with manual xmissns because of no progressive linkage on the secondary throttle plates (chirping the tires when pulling away from a dead stop).

My rig is a '72 with an sbc stroker. I removed the MegaSquirt to install the sniper. BTW I'll make someone a sweet deal on a complete MS. If I have any complaints about the Sniper it is... How will I route all these wires?! Looks like a snake pit under the hood. LOL

The biggest reason I'm removing the MS is because of ignition problems. I could never make the HEI play nice with MS. I'm hoping the HyperSpark will solve my ignition problems.

Some more info on my 40: restomod completed in '05; disk brakes all corners; FF rear with an FJ80 locker; 383 CI sbc; NV4500 xmissn ; 35 x 15 Goodrich MTs; 4:88 r&p.
FWIW, I never start out in 1st. Also, it will cruise all day long at 70 (love that overdrive)

 

[tdskip]

Thanks for the info, and nice build!

 

[SSTigerMerc]

For those of you that have done this swap where did you hide the fuel sending unit can that these units need to build the fuel pressure. I have been looking at them for awhile and cannot find a simple place to hide it.

 

[ksollinger]

Did you use pre and post fuel filters at the fuel pump? Looking for part numbers. Thanks!

 

[mrboatman]

Did you use pre and post fuel filters at the fuel pump? Looking for part numbers. Thanks!

Here is the part numbers for the fuel filters
JP
Post Fuel Filter 10 micron Holley P/N 562-1 or NAPA P/N 3482
Pre Fuel Filter NAPA P/N 3033

 

[ekolpack]

Bump 3 years in the future. How have these been holding up for everyone? Complaints? Suggestions?

The carb is going on my 22r. I'm faced with either rebuilding it, getting a 32/36, or going with the Sniper EFI. The only thing holding me back from the latter is internet people:

"I did a bunch of research on it, but LCE ended up convincing me not to do it. They mentioned that over long periods of sustained driving (highways), that the fuel mapping will eventually burn out the engine, amoung other issues. They don't stock the kit for this reason, or didn't at the time I called them. I would call them and ask for a better explanation than I can give you." -

Hey, if you can't trust hearsay from random internet people, what can you trust? May I'll just call LCE myself....

Until then, what say you?

 

[hanzo111]

I can share my experience on my Land Rover defender 250 Chevy in-line six filled with a Holley sniper.

If you have a tired motor or a motor that is not perfectly rebuilt or an exhaust leak of any kind, your sniper will not work.

I went through seven internal fuel pressure regulators, 5 02 sensors. Sent it back twice once it was returned to me defective

I put it arrow motive, fuel pressure, regulator on there still did not help.

After really digging into it. This thing is really nothing more than a toy. It looks good and sounds cool, but it does not work correctly in the long run, do a lot of research online. You will see massive amounts of defective units and it’s funny that Holly blames it on the insulation. Holley calls it self tuning but then tells you italk not. I would stay away from it as far as I could on my 250 build I went back to my rebuilt Rochester carburetor. It actually drives better than with the Holley.

 

[ekolpack]

I can share my experience on my Land Rover defender 250 Chevy in-line six filled with a Holley sniper.

If you have a tired motor or a motor that is not perfectly rebuilt or an exhaust leak of any kind, your sniper will not work.

I went through seven internal fuel pressure regulators, 5 02 sensors. Sent it back twice once it was returned to me defective

I put it arrow motive, fuel pressure, regulator on there still did not help.

After really digging into it. This thing is really nothing more than a toy. It looks good and sounds cool, but it does not work correctly in the long run, do a lot of research online. You will see massive amounts of defective units and it’s funny that Holly blames it on the insulation. Holley calls it self tuning but then tells you italk not. I would stay away from it as far as I could on my 250 build I went back to my rebuilt Rochester carburetor. It actually drives better than with the Holley.

Excellent feedback! Thank you!

 

[GA Architect]

Bump 3 years in the future. How have these been holding up for everyone? Complaints? Suggestions?

The carb is going on my 22r. I'm faced with either rebuilding it, getting a 32/36, or going with the Sniper EFI. The only thing holding me back from the latter is internet people:

"I did a bunch of research on it, but LCE ended up convincing me not to do it. They mentioned that over long periods of sustained driving (highways), that the fuel mapping will eventually burn out the engine, amoung other issues. They don't stock the kit for this reason, or didn't at the time I called them. I would call them and ask for a better explanation than I can give you." -

Hey, if you can't trust hearsay from random internet people, what can you trust? May I'll just call LCE myself....

Until then, what say you?

I installed the 1st Sniper on my 2F in Jan 2020, as can be read in my thread (click here) starting with post #1,525. Initially I had a few hic-ups but got those worked out. Then after 10 months and about 2,500 miles the ECM went out, but Holley sent me a whole new Sniper unit. Well over two years and 10,000 miles since, my Sniper has been a great upgrade.

Note, I have had several trips over 350 miles of continuous seat time, and it fires up each time without issues. As for the Sniper and elevation change, these photos can speak for themself; Imogene Pass, CO (13,114 ft) & Santa Rosa Beach, FL (10 ft).

vs

Would I do it again, HECK YA!!!...... 'YMMV'

 

[pjohnson]

They mentioned that over long periods of sustained driving (highways), that the fuel mapping will eventually burn out the engine, amoung other issues.

This sounds like a personal opinion based on zero data. I can't see how an efi system can burn out an engine.

As some have posted already, it's been quite successful.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

I installed a sniper on my 383 stroker, hyperspark, coil and dizzy.

Initially, I took it to Carb Connection in Kirkland, WA. After trying for a day, the guy said he couldn't tune it, something was wrong with the engine. Turns out it was an exhaust manifold leak.

I also worked with EFI System Pro, but Scott instead of Chris. I paid for the technical support and tried 41 configs before my setup started working properly. I would say half of those tries were my fault. I had another exhaust leak and an alternator ground issue.

Now it's running but I not super happy. I have a tough time getting the IAC between 2% and 12% when its warm. It just drops to 0% or is way too high. Because of this, when I start it cold, I can barely back it out of my garage w/o it dying. Otherwise, I warm it up in the garage for 30-60 seconds and it gases out the entire garage. Which leads to the next problem, still running way too rich. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what cam I'm running, but it must be pretty "lobey". Lastly, I expect more torque than it has. With a 383, I would at least expect to chirp the tires, but I can't.

I have some other work I'm doing on it now, fixing an oil leak on the intake manifold and strong gas smell in the cab. Once these are sorted out, I'll go back to turning the sniper to lean it out and hopefully, develop more power.

Specs on the 40: 383 stroker with a 400 turbo automatic, sanderson block huggers. All ignition and timing is through the sniper.

 

[zerotreedelta]

I installed a sniper on my 383 stroker, hyperspark, coil and dizzy.

Initially, I took it to Carb Connection in Kirkland, WA. After trying for a day, the guy said he couldn't tune it, something was wrong with the engine. Turns out it was an exhaust manifold leak.

I also worked with EFI System Pro, but Scott instead of Chris. I paid for the technical support and tried 41 configs before my setup started working properly. I would say half of those tries were my fault. I had another exhaust leak and an alternator ground issue.

Now it's running but I not super happy. I have a tough time getting the IAC between 2% and 12% when its warm. It just drops to 0% or is way too high. Because of this, when I start it cold, I can barely back it out of my garage w/o it dying. Otherwise, I warm it up in the garage for 30-60 seconds and it gases out the entire garage. Which leads to the next problem, still running way too rich. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what cam I'm running, but it must be pretty "lobey". Lastly, I expect more torque than it has. With a 383, I would at least expect to chirp the tires, but I can't.

I have some other work I'm doing on it now, fixing an oil leak on the intake manifold and strong gas smell in the cab. Once these are sorted out, I'll go back to turning the sniper to lean it out and hopefully, develop more power.

Specs on the 40: 383 stroker with a 400 turbo automatic, sanderson block huggers. All ignition and timing is through the sniper.

Did you do the adjustment procedure for the IAC/throttle blade? I know there were a few other tips/tricks on that process to make it easier, but I can't recall offhand...been a while.

Edit: the tip was go to in and set the temporary static timing to your idle timing, otherwise it can try to use more timing to compensate on top of the IAC.

IDLE SETTING/THROTTLE PLATE SETTING
Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard.
To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. With the vehicle in neutral,
adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. While adjusting the screw if the TPS
Position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero.
NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160°F!

 

[Skreddy]

I installed a sniper on my 383 stroker, hyperspark, coil and dizzy.

Initially, I took it to Carb Connection in Kirkland, WA. After trying for a day, the guy said he couldn't tune it, something was wrong with the engine. Turns out it was an exhaust manifold leak.

I also worked with EFI System Pro, but Scott instead of Chris. I paid for the technical support and tried 41 configs before my setup started working properly. I would say half of those tries were my fault. I had another exhaust leak and an alternator ground issue.

Now it's running but I not super happy. I have a tough time getting the IAC between 2% and 12% when its warm. It just drops to 0% or is way too high. Because of this, when I start it cold, I can barely back it out of my garage w/o it dying. Otherwise, I warm it up in the garage for 30-60 seconds and it gases out the entire garage. Which leads to the next problem, still running way too rich. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what cam I'm running, but it must be pretty "lobey". Lastly, I expect more torque than it has. With a 383, I would at least expect to chirp the tires, but I can't.

I have some other work I'm doing on it now, fixing an oil leak on the intake manifold and strong gas smell in the cab. Once these are sorted out, I'll go back to turning the sniper to lean it out and hopefully, develop more power.

Specs on the 40: 383 stroker with a 400 turbo automatic, sanderson block huggers. All ignition and timing is through the sniper.

Unrelated to the Sniper (maybe), but do you know what torque converter you have? Once up in the rpm does it feel like there’s more power?

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Unrelated to the Sniper (maybe), but do you know what torque converter you have? Once up in the rpm does it feel like there’s more power?

I really don't know the spec on the torque converter. I have a transmission guy I trust and told him what the build was for and he picked one for me.

It is true that I don't run the RPM up very high. In fact, I had the Dakota Digital warn at 3.5K RPM and it was only mildly annoying since I rarely hit that. But I've converted everything from high RPM HP to low RPM torque including going from fender headers to Sanderson block huggers and the Elderbrock high RPM intake manifold (don't remember the model) to the Performer eps. I'm just hoping for more low in grunt.

 

[Skreddy]

I really don't know the spec on the torque converter. I have a transmission guy I trust and told him what the build was for and he picked one for me.

It is true that I don't run the RPM up very high. In fact, I had the Dakota Digital warn at 3.5K RPM and it was only mildly annoying since I rarely hit that. But I've converted everything from high RPM HP to low RPM torque including going from fender headers to Sanderson block huggers and the Elderbrock high RPM intake manifold (don't remember the model) to the Performer eps. I'm just hoping for more low in grunt.

I don’t know much about torque converters. I have heard lots of people complain about power issues (Chevelle forum) and people immediately point to an improperly specced torque converter.
I’d think a 383 should have plenty of power to spin some tires. I had a 76 FJ40 15 years ago that had an all stock 396 from a Chevelle in it with the cruiser 4 speed. I could smoke those 35” bfg’s forever and it was a low hp version 396. (Guessing much less than a 383 stroker).

But that’s all I think I know about that.

 

[Green Bean]

I don’t know much about torque converters. I have heard lots of people complain about power issues (Chevelle forum) and people immediately point to an improperly specced torque converter.
I’d think a 383 should have plenty of power to spin some tires. I had a 76 FJ40 15 years ago that had an all stock 396 from a Chevelle in it with the cruiser 4 speed. I could smoke those 35” bfg’s forever and it was a low hp version 396. (Guessing much less than a 383 stroker).

But that’s all I think I know about that.

https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/staff-blog/andy-letter-revisited#:~:text=Ken%3A%20The%20question%20is%20whether%20two%20people%20who,what%20he%27s%20talking%20about.%20John%3A%20Well%2C%20that%20depends.

 

[Skreddy]

https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/staff-blog/andy-letter-revisited#:~:text=Ken%3A%20The%20question%20is%20whether%20two%20people%20who,what%20he%27s%20talking%20about.%20John%3A%20Well%2C%20that%20depends.

Aaaaaahhhh Car Talk. That is/was a great show.