Hj75 not starting (1 Viewer)

[WandatheTroopy]

I have a 1988 Hj75 with a 2H that has a hard time starting. My ignition switch is disabled, so I have this pull kill switch, see picture. Starter is new-ish, battery is good and fully charged, cables are new-ish. The only thing zu haven’t touched is this, see picture.
Any ideas? Thoughts? When I wiggle and ouch and pull the levers She usually starts, but it’s not super reliable.

Thank you!!

 

[AirheadNut]

What is the setup for starting the engine? I see a kill knob/cable, but nothing for starting.

 

[RHINO]

prolly nothing other than that manual knob. in to run out to stop, or vise versa, ive seen some wacky stuff over the years

if i make assumptions based on the info given i'd say you need to play with getting that cable adjusted on the fuel cut lever

 

[WandatheTroopy]

What is the setup for starting the engine? I see a kill knob/cable, but nothing for starting.

The ignition works for start, sorry, I didn’t make that clear. Sometimes she just doesn’t want to start and I think it’s maybe that kill switch.

 

[WandatheTroopy]

prolly nothing other than that manual knob. in to run out to stop, or vise versa, ive seen some wacky stuff over the years

if i make assumptions based on the info given i'd say you need to play with getting that cable adjusted on the fuel cut lever

Of course we’re on a trip right now, I’ll nurse her home and try to make adjustments or replace it.
Thank you!

 

[RhinoRig]

That fuel cut switch was probably put in because of a bad edic/computer issue. It’s purely a fuel cut off switch. Disconnect the rod and puts the lever forward while someone starts the car. If it starts, the switch is fine and I’ll bet your connecting rod needs adjustment.

 

[WandatheTroopy]

That fuel cut switch was probably put in because of a bad edic/computer issue. It’s purely a fuel cut off switch. Disconnect the rod and puts the lever forward while someone starts the car. If it starts, the switch is fine and I’ll bet your connecting rod needs adjustment.

Ha! We’ll give it a try next time she won’t start. Of course now she works just fine…
Thank you for your brain!

 

[coldtaco]

What he said

 

[coldtaco]

By the way there is a guy in Australia that is making new Edic thing.

 

[sodafeld1]

agree with all the above, edic is old, get a new one from 'reviveyourrig', young good fella.

 

[WandatheTroopy]

Update on all that.
Starter is brand new, had starter battery tested and performs to spec, glow plug relay tested, ignition tested, kill switch tested, wires are all good.
One more question: what is this and how do I test it.

 

[sodafeld1]

Looks like an after market oil pressure sender, perhaps even autometer. It is not factory. The oil cooler housing is a typical place for folks to install aftermarket oil pressure senders.

 

[WandatheTroopy]

Looks like an after market oil pressure sender, perhaps even autometer. It is not factory. The oil cooler housing is a typical place for folks to install aftermarket oil pressure senders.

Hmmm. Good idea! I’ll do more wire tracing. Thank you!!

 

[WandatheTroopy]

Looks like an after market oil pressure sender, perhaps even autometer. It is not factory. The oil cooler housing is a typical place for folks to install aftermarket oil pressure senders.

Ha! You’re absolutely right. I traced it and you’re spot on. Thank you!

 

[duncanrm]

What does a "hard time starting" mean precisely??

Does it crank? Or do you turn the key and you get a CLICK - but no cranking?

If you're trying to solve a "Click, No Crank" issue then you can rule out all of the EDIC/Stop Cable mess as being the problem. The checklist I use for Click No Crank is:


There's a few things to check.

1. Starter Relay.. the contacts get pitted you can open it up and clean them up. Photo below of the contacts you want to give a light sanding.

2. Earth connection to block/bellhousing are in excellent condition

3. Positive lead to starter to is in good condition

4. Battery terminals good and tight. Remove, clean terminals - refit.

5. Battery well charged and in good condition

6. Starter is securely bolted to bell housing.

7. If all the above is done and you still have issues then you may have starter motor solenoid contact issues.. the starter can be opened and the solenoid contacts and plunger etc can be replaced. - given you've replaced the starter then you can probably discount this.

 

[WandatheTroopy]

What does a "hard time starting" mean precisely??

Does it crank? Or do you turn the key and you get a CLICK - but no cranking?

If you're trying to solve a "Click, No Crank" issue then you can rule out all of the EDIC/Stop Cable mess as being the problem. The checklist I use for Click No Crank is:


There's a few things to check.

1. Starter Relay.. the contacts get pitted you can open it up and clean them up. Photo below of the contacts you want to give a light sanding.

2. Earth connection to block/bellhousing are in excellent condition

3. Positive lead to starter to is in good condition

4. Battery terminals good and tight. Remove, clean terminals - refit.

5. Battery well charged and in good condition

6. Starter is securely bolted to bell housing.

7. If all the above is done and you still have issues then you may have starter motor solenoid contact issues.. the starter can be opened and the solenoid contacts and plunger etc can be replaced. - given you've replaced the starter then you can probably discount this.

Thank you for this!

Yes I mean I can hear the glow Plug relay click then I turn the key, then when I turn the key to the start position, there is a click in the state, but no action.
Here is what I have done:
Installed refurbished starter from Cruiser Outfitters 12V Starter Gear Reduction Remanufactured - Aftermarket - Fits 2H/12HT (No Core Charge) (ELEC47080) - https://cruiserteq.com/12v-starter-gear-reduction-remanufactured-aftermarket-fits-2h-12ht-no-core-charge-elec47080/
Tested all wires in the ignition system for continuity.
Had the battery tested, it performs at 100%
Battery is charged 10%
Tested starter / ignition switch at steering wheel
Replaced fuse in starting circuit
Traced all wired to try to find a starter relay, to no avail. Is it built into the starter???
Next I was going to test the starter / ignition switch at steering wheel and all wires under load, other than the starter.
Car starts wonderfully if I turn the key to ignition and bridge the starter wire to the positive on the starter for a brief second. Works 100%.

I can not find any documentation on where the starter relay might be mounted, I can not find one.

Thank you!

 

[duncanrm]

I can not find any documentation on where the starter relay might be mounted, I can not find one.

Unless this vehicle has been converted from a petrol vehicle, it'll have a starter relay (especially if its definitely an unmolested HJ75 ).. it is most likely on the inside guard behind the air cleaner. Click the ignition and track down the clicking sound.. there's a very strong chance the contacts are pitted based on what you've reported.

I think this photo is an HJ60.. just to give you an idea what you're looking for..

 

[WandatheTroopy]

Unless this vehicle has been converted from a petrol vehicle, it'll have a starter relay (especially if its definitely an unmolested HJ75 ).. it is most likely on the inside guard behind the air cleaner. Click the ignition and track down the clicking sound.. there's a very strong chance the contacts are pitted based on what you've reported.

I think this photo is an HJ60.. just to give you an idea what you're looking for..

View attachment 3377363

Thank you! I also thought it must have a relay, I’ll look again in the morning and keep you posted.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

If you're getting click no crank, the fuel control has absolutely nothing to do with your issues.

First port of call would be starter relay.

 

[duncanrm]

Possibly near your right hand side headlight it seems..