HJ61RG back door locking

[sved]

Yes on the top of the hatch,and there is no serviceable place .

The only thing you can do is disconnect the cable at the solenoid side,atach a wire and start pulling it back into the D-pillar carefully.
The same Cable is also atached to the wipermotor,and window heaterelement.
Maybe its easyer to just put in a new cable directly from the relais to the solenoid,but that's what you decide yourself.

As said this is one of the most hated XXXX! repairjobs among 60 series owners,but doable with enough patience.

 

[neixian]

Thanks.

After all tests and tries, I finally gave up. Too much trouble for just tailgate. Will live with the manual lock anyway.

 

[Crick60]

Thanks. After all tests and tries, I finally gave up. Too much trouble for just tailgate. Will live with the manual lock anyway.

Before you give up did you attempt to run a temporary wire between the solenoid/relay and the lock actuator?

So far I've lost a negative and a speaker cable core to core in those looms and there is no way I'm hand tracing through that mess. I ended up just running new cable.

 

[neixian]

Before you give up did you attempt to run a temporary wire between the solenoid/relay and the lock actuator?

So far I've lost a negative and a speaker cable core to core in those looms and there is no way I'm hand tracing through that mess. I ended up just running new cable.

Kids had a wonderful day today.

After getting home, I thought I might have the last try.

After pulling the rubber tube near the door hinge off the door, guess what? The wire was neatly cut and stuffed into the rubber tube!

As the stock wire quality is so high standard, I could find any length of wire at home to match them, therefore I end up with using multiple length of wire and bind them together to connect the broken cables by soldering.

All doors can be controlled by the main switch now. What a day!

 

[Spudman]

I am about to pull the tailgate actuator out of my donor vehicle so that my other vehicle has factory central locking, so this thread will come in very handy if I have any dramas

 

[sved]

Kids had a wonderful day today.

After getting home, I thought I might have the last try.

After pulling the rubber tube near the door hinge off the door, guess what? The wire was neatly cut and stuffed into the rubber tube!

As the stock wire quality is so high standard, I could find any length of wire at home to match them, therefore I end up with using multiple length of wire and bind them together to connect the broken cables by soldering.

All doors can be controlled by the main switch now. What a day!

There you go, you solved it
Sometimes you just have to walk away and rethink for a while.....

 

[Crick60]

There you go, you solved it Sometimes you just have to walk away and rethink for a while.....

Well done! Couldn't have said it better myself.

How good do you feel now that problem is fixed!

 

[Spudman]

If I had a dollar for every time I've walked away from something that seemed impossible to come back later and it all went to plan I'd be a rich man, well done

 

[neixian]

The top door lock relay nr5 LHS coil pin is NOT directly connected to the door lock switch.
The black dots in the diagram are connection Points.No black dot means that the lines are just crossing in the diagram.
It is connected to the door lock switch via the front RH door solenoid.
So activate LOCK on the door switch will result in that top relay nr5 is activated.
Activate Unlock on the door switch will result in that down relay relay nr5 is activated.Current will pass through rear left hand solenoid towards door lock relay coil.

The door lock switch has always one side connected to mass when activated.

The diagram is correct.

You need the relays because the tailgate door solenoid has its own powersource through the 15A fuse.

Hope this clears things up for you.
Let me know if you have further questions,i will be happy to answer them for you.

Hi Sved,

The diagram you provided must be wrong:

If the No.8 solenoid is not connected to the unlock pin directly, the front door would n't lock as there is not power coming from the unlock switch.

I found this when I was trying to install a remote door control unit.

 

[sved]

Hi neixian,

You said that everything was working fine when you repaired the wire in the hatch.
It was not working correctly after connecting the remote control.

The only thing that is a bit tricky in the diagram is the drawning of the door lock switch itself.

In the drawning it looks like the 2 contacts(L-W and L-R) are connected to earth (W-B)in the middle.

This is not the case in reality.When the switch is not activated, non of the 4 switch contacts have continuity.

When activate to ''Lock'' there is continuity between (R to L-W) and (L-R to W-B)
When activate to ''Unlock'' there is continuity between (R to L-R) and (L-W to W-B)

Do you mean righthand side if you are refering to your front door??
Now i'm wondering if there is a difference between LHD and RHD diagrams.??

If you try to activate the central locking with your remote you will never ever get power from the lock or unlock switch,because as explaned above there is no continuity between the 4 contacts when in rest.

Do the other solenoids(Front LH and both rear) funtion with the remote connected as in your drawning??

Does the remote control unit send out only 12V to either lock or unlock??or does it reverse polarity between lock and unlock??

I will compare this wiring diagram with my 87 Hj60 and report back.

 

[neixian]

Greetings Sved.

I haven't installed the remote control yet. Planning to do it tomorrow.

I am pretty sure this is going to work as I have a spare solenoid which will be used for test before I starting soldering.

The remote control has different setup. In our case I believe unlock and lock signal are just to change polarity of the solenoid as the main switch does. Therefore I will use this setup to simulate the switch operation.

Yes, I did find the tricky part of the diagram and checked in reality the two pins of the solenoid are not connected to earth as shown in the diagram. A simple continuity test will prove that.

Will report back how the installation goes.

 

[sved]

Hello neixian,

I've checked the central locking in my 87 Hj60.
I discovered the following:

The diagram that i send you which covers 87 60series has indeed a error concerning that missing black dot.

There is continuity between ''solenoid front RH'' and ''top door lock relay nr5'' and the ''unlock switch''.

This means that:
1- the top door lock relay5 is used for Unlock hatch.
2- the bottom door lock relay nr5 is used for Lock hatch
3- there is no difference in LHD or RHD wiring(mine is LHD yours is RHD).

And now comes the tricky part.

If Lock is activated on the door switch all 4 door-solenoids and bottom nr5 door lock relay will be activated.These 5 items are wired parralel,so they all get the same 12V or like mine 24V.
The same situation happens when Unlock is activated,but now top nr5 door lock relay is activated.(parallel wiring)

When the door switch is activated to LOCK, the Unlock side will be connected to earth.That means that the L-R wire which comes from the Unlock switch has a dubbel function.

1: It provides power to the 4 door solenoids plus top door lock relay when Unlock is activated
2: It provides a earth path for only the door solenoids when Lock is activated.

When Lock is activated on the door switch ,the unlock relay nr 5 will never be activated because it is in series with the Front RH solenoid.(series means you would need 24V or 48V to activated both relays at the same time).

Back to your remote control setup:That setup will only work if the remote Lock and Unlock output signals change polarity to provide an earth path.

Your normal earth path in Lock mode will be blocked by the top door (un)lock relay solenoid(you need 24V but you only have 12V).

Same situation when IN Unlock mode but now its the down relay nr 5 which blocks the earth path.

PFFFFF now i need a or

 

[neixian]

Hello neixian,

I've checked the central locking in my 87 Hj60.
I discovered the following:

The diagram that i send you which covers 87 60series has indeed a error concerning that missing black dot.

There is continuity between ''solenoid front RH'' and ''top door lock relay nr5'' and the ''unlock switch''.

This means that:
1- the top door lock relay5 is used for Unlock hatch.
2- the bottom door lock relay nr5 is used for Lock hatch
3- there is no difference in LHD or RHD wiring(mine is LHD yours is RHD).

And now comes the tricky part.

If Lock is activated on the door switch all 4 door-solenoids and bottom nr5 door lock relay will be activated.These 5 items are wired parralel,so they all get the same 12V or like mine 24V.
The same situation happens when Unlock is activated,but now top nr5 door lock relay is activated.(parallel wiring)

When the door switch is activated to LOCK, the Unlock side will be connected to earth.That means that the L-R wire which comes from the Unlock switch has a dubbel function.

1: It provides power to the 4 door solenoids plus top door lock relay when Unlock is activated
2: It provides a earth path for only the door solenoids when Lock is activated.

When Lock is activated on the door switch ,the unlock relay nr 5 will never be activated because it is in series with the Front RH solenoid.(series means you would need 24V or 48V to activated both relays at the same time).

Back to your remote control setup:That setup will only work if the remote Lock and Unlock output signals change polarity to provide an earth path.

Your normal earth path in Lock mode will be blocked by the top door (un)lock relay solenoid(you need 24V but you only have 12V).

Same situation when IN Unlock mode but now its the down relay nr 5 which blocks the earth path.

PFFFFF now i need a or

Agree with everything you said here.

This is very useful information.

I finished the remote door control today using the diagram I drew here, It worked as charm.