FJ62 Door Lock Issue

[Beams37]

Hey All. I've read a lot of posts about the power lock issues. This is partly that, but I'm having issues with locking the door manually.

Backstory: When I picked up my 62, all the power locks worked correctly, except the rear passenger door. They have been on my list for a while, but not a huge priority. Today, I had some new keys cut and to test them I was going to lock the driver door and then use the key. The power lock isn't working on the driver side (no shocker), but I cannot even get the manual lock to budge. Interior and exterior handles work great. Very strange.

I haven't opened the inside of the door yet because it's freezing and I'm tired, but will do that this week. What are the potential causes of this issue? Worked fine last week, why an issue now? Could the power and manual issues be connected? What should I be focused on while I'm in there?

Thanks in advance.

 

[fl4031003]

Did you cut the key from the ignition key or use the code from the passenger door? Your drivers door might have had the lock replaced at some point

 

[Beams37]

Did you cut the key from the ignition key or use the code from the passenger door? Your drivers door might have had the lock replaced at some point

It was cut from a key. The key works on the passenger door. The issue is the this piece won't go up and down, even with my hand.

 

[toy_tek]

Either the plastic lock tab is jammed on something or the "bell crank" pivot is locked up due to the pivot point, or possibly the rod that runs back to the latch/lock is bound up. just need to take the panel off and investigate. The lower rod is the latch release, the upper is the lock.

 

[Beams37]

View attachment 3821451
Either the plastic lock tab is jammed on something or the "bell crank" pivot is locked up due to the pivot point, or possibly the rod that runs back to the latch/lock is bound up. just need to take the panel off and investigate.

Thanks. I'm not sure what any of those parts are, but I have a feeling they will become more obvious when I open the door. LOL

 

[Beams37]

View attachment 3821451View attachment 3821452
Either the plastic lock tab is jammed on something or the "bell crank" pivot is locked up due to the pivot point, or possibly the rod that runs back to the latch/lock is bound up. just need to take the panel off and investigate. The lower rod is the latch release, the upper is the lock.

While I'm in there, I will probably clean it out and apply some grease. I've heard of moly and lithium grease recommended in the past. Is one better than another in this situation?

 

[toy_tek]

That area is not sealed from water. Use lithium.

 

[Beams37]

That area is not sealed from water. Use lithium.

Perfect. Thanks!

It's been sitting outside in freezing temps this week. What are the odds it's just frozen in there??

 

[Beams37]

So, I opened the door today. I think there's a mix of problems that were causing the lock malfunction.

1. There was moisture in the mechanism that likely froze it. Like I said it has been out in the sub-freezing temps.
2. It was dry as a bone. Over all it was clean, but that whole thing could use some grease. So, I'll lube it up this weekend.
3. The rod that actually moves up and down ("shown" in red) has a bit of a curve in it. Is this normal?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So, I opened the door today. I think there's a mix of problems that were causing the lock malfunction.

1. There was moisture in the mechanism that likely froze it. Like I said it has been out in the sub-freezing temps.
2. It was dry as a bone. Over all it was clean, but that whole thing could use some grease. So, I'll lube it up this weekend.
3. The rod that actually moves up and down ("shown" in red) has a bit of a curve in it. Is this normal?

View attachment 3823082

.

 

[Beams37]

.

View attachment 3823109

Looks pretty straight to me. Lol

 

[Richard Luksozek]

Just had a look at mine here is Sunny Oz and you should be able to grab the actuator output shaft and move it up and down freely. Should move about 20mm.

 

[Beams37]

Just had a look at mine here is Sunny Oz and you should be able to grab the actuator output shaft and move it up and down freely. Should move about 20mm.

It moves now. The rod just has a slight to it. I'm currently tearing the inside apart to install sound deadening and Orikawa door panels. So, everything will get a good lube and hopefully won't have problems long-term.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

It moves now. The rod just has a slight to it. I'm currently tearing the inside apart to install sound deadening and Orikawa door panels. So, everything will get a good lube and hopefully won't have problems long-term.

suggestion :

go to dealer and invest in every single , OEM Pink , Glow Stick green , Blue smurf , ROD and linkage $1.88 or less part "s you can obtain


its like lunch-money over all out-of-pocket level , but , the time you spend making this happen , will seem like the sand-of-Time frozr ....

however ....

new moving oem color keyed nylon separating all the 45+ year old metal stuff will glide like a dream and be a happy-forever parts topic you will never have to re-visit for another 45+ years ...


make sense ?



oh ,,,, , and no Chairman MOE-Spec. market region cracker-jack-smack off AMAZON either ,

that is going backwards in evolution ..


.

 

[Beams37]

View attachment 3827377

What in the heck are these ?? LOL

 

[ToyotaMatt]

there is no Day-Dreaming permitted here , all the chairs and desks are always only in the front row of my Class-Room & Laboratory

,

.
.

 

[Beams37]

there is no Day-Dreaming permitted here , all the chairs and desks are always only in the front row of my Class-Room & Laboratory

,


View attachment 3827536


View attachment 3827506View attachment 3827508View attachment 3827505

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View attachment 3827527

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View attachment 3827537

Thanks man!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks man!

i follow anything 60 series anything if the word LOCK is involved , you had DOOR also ...

once i had a moment to review what you were going at here ? i then knew what tech. media to post that would help you along the most ...



What in the heck are these ?? made me 5-mile-smile ...


but i was also being dead-nutz serious about the pocket change low cost involved to make this happen and the also taking the time to make the time to re-new / re-fresh any piece of nylon / plastic Toyota offers up ....

it's one of those odd parts topics where sh#t is actually reversed : low cost parts but notable more time spent at the toyota dealer parts counter ....


in the end i rate it as a value over the time spent = win ......

—/————————————-

side on-topic :

your thoughts on the below new reality …?

Toyota founded and owns Dihatsu outright , you should google-up the
“ Land Cruiser Blizzard “

 

[Skipper]

I realize this thread is a year old but i just dealt with a similar problem and i found it. Driver front door lock not functioning; power lock and button not moving. I took entire lock mechanism out. The actuator was sticking. When actuator plunger was stuck, the button on top of door would not move up or down by hand. The rod attached to the knob mechanically moves actuator plunger in and out through the lock mechanism. I removed the actuator from the mechanism. The solution was to find a nla actuator which actually are available used. However, while waiting for that to show up, i played around with the non functional one. They are a simple electro magnetic kind of thing. The shaft must be attached to some kind of disc/piston running inside a cylinder. I discovered that shaft rotates and could feel the resistance. I hit it heavy with pb blaster and freed it up rotationally and in and out. I plugged into harness and tested before reassembly. Reinstalling lock mechanism was fussy. Might work for 2 weeks or 20 years but currently works great.

Word of caution, ignition on while goofing around with this drew battery voltage down enough to cause other door actuators to weaken. It seems to me it doesn't take much voltage drop to compromise function of 36 year old actuators. I have a feeling i may be doing this again on the other doors. I had a coronary thinking i had broken wires in the scary driver door wire harness but sluggish operation in other doors disappeared when I put a charger to battery. The actuators have a pretty good punch to move all the parts in the lock mechanism.

Hope this helps someone. It certainly would have helped me if someone else had posted this.