HJ61 24v alternator replacements? (1 Viewer)

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why cant you just go to your local starter/alternator rebuilder?
That's fine if your local guy offers old fashion service, I tried two local firms and was told"just get a new one" It seems no one here likes a challenge . With mine the shaft @ the oil seal was pitted so needed to be turned down an sleeved. Challenge was not accepted by anyone.
I purchased this one :
Shipping cost a sh#t load to get to OZ but few mods required, already got ripped of by an Auto lecky here so happy to avoid having to use one again.

WARNING :
The bracket supplied with the new alternator will only suit a truck with no aircon.
Despite being told the old bracket will not fit I managed to grind a small amount the adjustment arc to get it to work. You also need a spacer (I used a drilled out nut) to align the alternator with the tension arm.
 
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why cant you just go to your local starter/alternator rebuilder?
That’s a fair option if you can find someone to do it.

Also the knowledge to increase the output of the the standard alternator from 30A to 60A by using a stator from a 12v unit seems to have been lost. Once the carrot of 60A plus gets dangled it’s hard to resist.

Power needs have changed too. For example my DCDC uses 20A just to charge the caravan batteries, and if driving with headlights on, that maxes out the standard alternator.
 
That's fine if your local guy offers old fashion service, I tried two local firms and was told"just get a new one" It seems no one here likes a challenge . With mine the shaft @ the oil seal was pitted so needed to be turned down an sleeved. Challenge was not accepted by anyone.
I purchased this one :
Shipping cost a sh#t load to get to OZ but few mods required, already got ripped of by an Auto lecky here so happy to avoid having to use one again.

WARNING :
The bracket supplied with the new alternator will only suit a truck with no aircon.
Despite being told the old bracket will not fit I managed to grind a small amount the adjustment arc to get it to work. You also need a spacer (I used a drilled out nut) to align the alternator with the tension arm.
I expect that is the HXA004 that’s available on one or two OZ eBay sites. The specs match up.
 
I expect that is the HXA004 that’s available on one or two OZ eBay sites. The specs match up.
Tim, the alternator I got shat it's self on a 3200 klm round trip to Karratha It would appear the HXA004 requires an external reg, do you have a link I can look up for a model with internal reg.
Thanks
Metro
 
If anyone needs a 24v alternator, i have a couple from an HJ60 i am willing to part with. Both were working well. Did LS swap and getting these sold to those who need it.
 
Well, I just confirmed I'm getting old and stupid, the HXA004 is for the SD22 BUT it has an external REG both have the specs match the 12HT so I think I will order the one from eveska with the internal REG.


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Well, it's taken nearly a month to sort this out.
I went with the HXA002 despite the fact that the vacuum pump is smaller. (Brakes work fine)
The reason, the oil feed inlet just hits the rubber elbow to the turbo, if the vacuum pump was bigger I do not believe it will fit.
PROBLEMS:
1 comes with an "A" single pulley. All OEX "B" pulleys are a loose 17mm not snug like the 17mm shaft of the single "A".
Got friendly with the local men's shed and with a 90mm piece of stock aluminum several hours later a new tight fitting pulley.

2 Oil return tail: The original is 1/4 inch too big and the hose will not fit even with a heat gun.
purchased a speedflow 16mm x 3/8 hose tail. fixed that...

3 RGX4018 Regulator caused some issues initially and the local auto electrician threw his hands up in the air and gave up. (still cost me...)
Turned to OEX Australia for advice, great help, highly recommend them. Turns out the Alternator MUST have a battery feed.
initially the sparky did not connect this. As the adapter plug that comes with the ALT ignores it.
I cut the old plug from my dead ALT and soldered it in place with a B+ connection.....CHARGING UFBeauty.

4 Ignition light stays on but ammeter shows charging. Multi meter shows 28.5 V @ high revs 26.x V @ idle
still investigating why the light does not go off but will use a relay to switch it off if I can't find the problem.
The "N" feed back from the alternator to the REG is 12v so I can use that to switch the light feed to +VE.

Hope that helps some other poor scrote (google OZ slang) in future

NewPulley.jpg
 

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