HJ60 A440F Transmission and Transfercase Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Aug 30, 2007
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Location
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Is there any interest in additional pictures of this A440F that I'm rebuilding? It was shifting erratically and would over rev when upshifting.
I bought the master kit from rock auto and have since found out that there are a few parts that don't come in the kit.
Any bearings you might want to replace and the sacrificial Spacer (for manual valve lever) 90560-20008.
I ordered all the parts listed for the TCase but missed the speedo drive o-ring and seal 90301-18018, 90310-09001.

Bought a used transmission jack and took at it. Being in a 40 with frame stretch it was a tight fit but it came out without drama. I should explain that I rebuilt the vehicle without touching the powertrain since it was running when I bought the donor HJ60 and I just wanted to get the thing on the road first.
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Things come apart very quickly. I didn't need any special tools really other than the bearing puller/hydraulic press, a blind bearing puller I made myself and a puller for the transmission sections. A 4x8 clean table was setup to hold everything. Plan is to rebuild/check one piece at a time per the FSM to keep the number of loose parts manageable.
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My A440F is behaving very similar to yours. Never thought of rebuilding it myself, this thread gives me hope. I'll be keeping an eye on your progress.
Best of Luck with it.
:beer:
 
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First installment of rebuild. Following the FSM the Oil Pump was checked, new seal and o-ring installed and reassembled. Everything within spec for this.
Since all information is in the FSM I'll just post pictures. Note I was very careful to reinstall the oil pump the same way it was originally so it wouldn't have to wear in differently. There is one light score on the plate from one of the teeth with a slight raised part on it. This was stoned down gently and checked on surface plate.

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Next is the Overdrive Planetary Gear and Overdrive Direct Clutch (C0).
This is also really straight forward. For measuring a piece of coat hanger was used and placed between the dial probe and the piston.
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I don't have the SST for compressing the springs and I didn't have a PVC cap to cut and fit so I used some milling machine setup clamps and parts with a medium size c-clamp. Just gently compress it enough to remove the snap ring and nothing more.
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Apart and springs removed for cleaning.
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Oil pump and C0 reassembled and waiting for the rest. I did not disassemble the one-way clutch since it is working and everything is super clean and within specifications. That does it for one night's work. Maybe I'll change my mind if I find something further in. (Overdrive support piston travel check is in this image but will be the next post when I get time to work on it.)
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Overdrive Support

Follow the FSM to the letter and this one is straight forward.
Instead of the SST I used some steel blocks to spread the force and 3 c-clamps.
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Piston removed
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Checking the travel. For this the coat hanger was bent to suit.
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Front Clutch (C1)

Checking the travel before disassembly. The other end of the coat hanger was bent to slip down into the space as required.
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Clutch Plates removed. This one has a cushion plate that is shaped like a belleville washer. Also in this shot the piston is removed.
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To remove the piston snap ring use a large c-clamp and some steel bits.
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In this one there was a piece of metal embedded in one of the friction discs. All discs and plates in this module were replaced with new
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Completed assembly.
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Rear Clutch (C2)

More of the same. All parts checked according to the FSM etc. Piston travel checked with the same piece of coat hanger (different bends on each end from the prior assemblies) Same as all other work, all o-rings replaced.
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Completed assembly with new plates and discs.
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Center Support

Nothing special or different from the Overdrive Support. Replaced the o-rings, discs and plates, checked all the measurements and reassembled.

Removing the clutch parts. Same procedure used for compressing the spring cage (3 clamps with steel blocks). This piston was a bit of a pain to remove. It needs to come out perfectly straight or else it will window jam. The clamps can be used to limit how far the piston is pushed out by the air. Also don't forget to match mark it per the FSM.
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Measuring the travel after reassembly. Same coat hanger.
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Finished
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Planetary Gear and Output Shaft

There is only one seal to replace on this assembly and it is not split. The seal in my kit seemed fairly stiff and I was nervous to accidently tear it during installation because the old one wouldn't come off without tearing. I warmed the shaft and seal gently with a hair dryer to make it more pliable. Using ATF and carefully working it over the end of the shaft minimizing how far it was stretched brought success.
 
Governor Valve Assembly

This is out of order per the FSM but I chose to do this first.
There is one gasket, one strainer and 3 seal rings to replace, otherwise the work is simply cleaning, inspecting and reassembling the gevernor.

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To align the Body to the shaft I used two 0.007" feeler gauges wrapped around the splines. FSM says 0.01mm but that is too thin. Torqued the 8 bolts to spec.
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Finished assembly
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Nice lineup of completed modules. Next up First and Reverse Brake (B3) then the intimidating valve body.
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First and Reverse Brake (B3)

Used milling clamp set to compress this spring and a brass punch to tap out the bearing. This is more of the same.
Image of the rebuilt parts ready to go back in.
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In this image are the two rods used to measure all the piston displacements and the clamp arrangement used to compress the springs for this assembly.
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Instead of the valve body I decided to disassemble the rest of the parts and clean up the cases.

Three bolts broke off in the vacuum shift casting even with some heat. One of them was really stubborn and it was milled out for a helicoil.
Setup in the mill.
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Closeup. The piece of bolt I couldn't drill out is sitting on the vise beside the small jack.
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Picture of cleaned up cases. I have cleaned these thoroughly but plan to clean the transmission case once more for good measure. One of the bolts broke off in the transfer case, welding a larger nut on it allowed it to spin out easily.
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Disassembled the Valve Body. Care is needed to follow the FSM and layout parts in order. On the lower valve body for some reason the disassembly stops at the low modulator valve but deeper inside the same bore as that valve is the 1-2 Relay Valve. This 8th spring can be found on the Toyota EPC so I don't know why the FSM I am using doesn't include it.

The disappointing thing is that over half of the springs measure less than the length listed as minimum in the manual. I will need to order the springs and also a strainer that isn't included in the master transmission kit. 35396-36010

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Started assembly per the shop manual. Things were going really well until I noticed the shift fork is very worn. Not sure how I missed it earlier.

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Received the new shift fork and collar (from Dubai) and the transfer case went together without too many problems. One issue is that the thrust washer on the outer case wore into the case and was at risk of spinning. I decided to mill a new groove and recreate what I believe is an oil feed hole.

Mill setup.
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In this view the wear in the old slot is visible.
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New groove 1/4" wide and a bit longer than it needed to be. Hole drilled in thrust washer using step drill, to line up with what I believe to be an oil feed to the thrust washer.
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Last of this post, New diaphragm, seal and o-rings in the vacuum actuator.
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