another couple of the apron catches - they are now getting some plastic filler on them, and I'm slightly flattening the lead edge so as to get a better seal with the front of the 70 series marker lamp housings. Pictures tomorrow of that.
Relating back to a discussion above about the glow controller, here are pictures comparing the ...060 (= 6 cylinder I'm guessing) and ...040 (4 cyl.) part numbers. As you can see, the 060 version of the wire coil is considerably thicker, with fewer winds, than the ...040 model.
I was able to complete most of the harness re-wrapping today. The rear harness is done, and all the harness in the engine bay is done. I wrap the cables first in surveyor's tape then wrap it completely in high quality electrical tape. It takes a while.
here's some random shots - first the rebuilt alternator, then a couple of other areas in the engine bay, the last is the lower rad hose now in place. Clearance around the p/s vane pump pulley is excellent.
I plan to put the anti-freeze in tomorrow, but I've been waiting on a new oil pan drain plug seal from Japan before I refill the oil. Then again, i might stay put with the current seal, fill it with inexpensive 15-40 oil and then get it running, then drain and put the good seal and good oil in. We'll see.
lastly a picture of the battery and harness connection from another angle. i still have a couple of niggling problems with the interior light wiring, radio, and light rheostat to sort out, so i haven't wrapped the wiring under the dash yet. Should get to it soon though, and then the harness can be yanked out so I can complete the tub body work.
i took the wiper motor to the auto electric place today to see if they could get it working. if not, I'll pony up for a new one.
Relating back to a discussion above about the glow controller, here are pictures comparing the ...060 (= 6 cylinder I'm guessing) and ...040 (4 cyl.) part numbers. As you can see, the 060 version of the wire coil is considerably thicker, with fewer winds, than the ...040 model.
I'm reluctant to get back into this glow-controller/glow-relay discussion (cos I took up so much of your thread space before on this topic). But when I looked up the EPC then, I thought it said the controller in my 4 cycl BJ40 was part number 28550-46021 (which incidentally is used in an HJ45 too). (There's no 40 in this part number.)
I hasten to add that I haven't read the actual part number on my unit though because I've never removed it from the dash (but when looking through the little mesh screen it looks much like the "many- turns" type you pictured).
And on the EPC I thought I saw a 28550-47040 controller listed for the HJ47?
Never mind!
On another subject, if those hood hooks are stainless they'll react with the mild steel where they hook on. (Because it will be impossible to stop metal-to-metal contact there and rain will add the electrolyte for electrochemical-reaction to occur.) The stainless of the hooks will also eat into the thin mild steel through wear.
I've noticed that the factory hooks have the metal folded over in the centre of the female component to double its thickness there (and thus combat wear).
To prevent electrochemical reaction and wear I've actually brazed a stainless lip on my apron-mounted female components. (I'm at work now. If I was at home I'd post a photo.) I'm hoping my paint will stop electro-chemical reaction where the different metals meet while the rod-lip will prevent wear from becoming a problem.
I'm a bit confused about the part numbers for the controllers as well. The ...040 unit came out of a BJ40 I found in the bush. The EPC page I have is a little vague as to which model of controller is supposed to go with the B/3B equipped trucks -depending upon the year it varied, and there is no listing of a number after certain production dates.
I can see that the ..040 model is specified for the HJ47 as you say. However, the controller that I bought from Roodogs in Australia has the thicker wire and the ...060 part number, which I can find no listing for in my limited set of EPC pages.
I'm curious to see what arrives from my current order with Japan4x4, and hope it is a good match for my system. Perhaps I should hook the ..040 model up to my system to see what happens. If it croaks, then I'll have determined that either it is the wrong model, or that there is something not right with my glow system. If it does work, then I'm going to be wondering about the one I bought from Roodogs, and what model it is supposed to fit.
That's a good point about the dissimilar metal contact issue with the hood hooks. The factory ones I have seen have usually been a little eaten away at the point of contact to the hood hook tip, and it hadn't registered that the cause might be due to something more than wear and tear.
You mentioned that,
"To prevent electrochemical reaction and wear I've actually brazed a stainless lip on my apron-mounted female components. (I'm at work now. If I was at home I'd post a photo.) I'm hoping my paint will stop electro-chemical reaction where the different metals meet while the rod-lip will prevent wear from becoming a problem."
Didn't the brazing eliminate the paint at the point of contact between the stainless lip and the apron mild steel? It seems to me that there would still be electro-chemical reaction happening, though the greater surface area might reduce the erosion (?).
I'm not too worried about it, though it does give pause to consider if I should do something about it. Were the factory hooks stainless steel or not? If not, then perhaps the simplest route would be to put mild steel hooks on and paint them?
I was planning to isolate the stainless hooks from the hood by using a small piece of duct tape in-between.
All the details to consider - it's a lot sometimes!
Looks great! What's the purpose of the surveyors tape? Doesn't that let the harness move around a bit inside the harness? Or is it to keep the goo off of the wires from the electrical tape?
I want to take a photo of my controller coil glowing for you - but because various things are disassembled at the moment - I don't want to play with activating circuits right now in case it causes me problems. (The battery-earthing is entirely inadequate now with my LH mudguard removed.)
But I seem to remember that the individual coils in my controller don't touch each other like those in your photo do. (If they touch - I would have thought the current could cross between them and thereby reduce the overall resistance of the unit - which could perhaps have contributed to the "burn out" you experienced. - Just a little theory.) But then perhaps the coils spread apart as one result of heating up?
.....That's a good point about the dissimilar metal contact issue with the hood hooks. The factory ones I have seen have usually been a little eaten away at the point of contact to the hood hook tip......
Like this HJ? - Note the bit of folded-over sheetmetal too.
........Didn't the brazing eliminate the paint at the point of contact between the stainless lip and the apron mild steel? It seems to me that there would still be electro-chemical reaction happening, though the greater surface area might reduce the erosion (?)............
What I mean is that the NEW paint will stop the electrolyte (water) from getting at the junction between the dissimilar metals HJ.
These photos will explain:
..... Were the factory hooks stainless steel or not? If not, then perhaps the simplest route would be to put mild steel hooks on and paint them? ......
Stock hooks are painted mild steel but I hate the rust streaks that they leave down both apron sides. That's why I've gone to stainless like you have HJ.
That's a tidy job on those catches, Tom. I'm now inspired...
I'm thinking about a brass sheet, folded and wrapped around the lower lip, maybe soldered, would be a solution. I figure i can find some at the hobby store.
I focussed on bodywork this afternoon ,and made progress on the doors and aprons. I'm starting to get a handle on how to sight the panels and work them with the mud to achieve an improved degree of flatness. I'm having to put more than that 1/16" skim in some places. If I had lots of experience with sheet metal work, then maybe the bows, twists, and bulges in the panels could be sorted out without use of the polyester filler, but the panels would show it. The Wurth filler/putty I'm using is supposed to be good stuff, though not to be used on bare metal. The third pic shows how I'm working on getting a good flat surface for the lamp housing to fit against.
Does anyone out there put something between the metal-to-metal connection of the apron and the top of the fender? I was thinking that bolting sheet metal together involves a rubber piece in between in so many other places on the truck, then why not here?
I noticed that the BJ60 gas tank straps have a rubber packing piece that might be just perfect between to go between the apron and the fender. I can't see any reason not to. The slight rise in apron height that the packing pieces would effect seems like it would be a good thing.
One more. The hood and the roof are going to need a bit of work, but the rest of the bits look pretty good as they are. I'll look them over carefully for any dings or w.h.y..
I've set myself a deadline of having the bodywork done by May 15th. 30 days to prep all the panels, including the tub, and then into paint shortly thereafter. I've also got to get the seam sealing and bed-lining in, and I'm hoping for warmer weather for that.
Looks great! What's the purpose of the surveyors tape? Doesn't that let the harness move around a bit inside the harness? Or is it to keep the goo off of the wires from the electrical tape?
I thought it would be a good idea. Several of the Toyota harnesses I have pulled apart have been wrapped in places with a similar kind of non-adhesive tape. It made it easy to unravel, and the wires underneath were clean. Under the straight electric tape, there is a gummy residue left when you unravel one, as you noted.
The surveyor's tape seemed ideal. I think it ensures that the harness remain supple for a long period as another benefit. And when you move or bend the wire loom, the two layers can slide and not pull the wires around so much. Seems like a good thing too.
Originally, at least on the vintages I have seen the body protection between the fender and apron was minimal. It seems Toyota primed all the peices seperately, then bolted the tubs together and bolted the fenders, grill peices and aprons together as one unit. These two larger peices were painted at this point in time to suit production I assume, and then probably bolted together on a jig and lowered onto the complete chassis. At least that is how I inviosned it.
Under the windshield hinges, under the hinges on the doors and rear doors of a 40, and wherever the grill and aprons bolted to the fenders there was no paint, only some light primer. This is not ideal, so painting every component seperately is a good idea. The paint alone will provide many years of protection over the crappy primer that was orignally under these parts. I wouldn't use any rubber between the front end parts, as you will find it will be very difficult to get it all lined back up, the extra thickness of rubber will throw things off. Also the front clip doesn;t attach to much, only the fender supports, the hinge thing under the grill and the bolts back to the cowling. So the entire unit tends to vibrate, and will twist during heavy articulation. I think good coat of paint and bolting at togehter good and solid after you have it all aligned is a better approach.
I prime then topcoat my fenders and apron bits separately and fully agree with MoCoNative about how wise it is to do this. (The only rust that I found on all this area was between the "apron bits" and "fenders" where the factory had just "minimal primer".) But I actually think the factory primer performed well considering the time period involved.
But I'm going to stick/glue/seal where the apron bits meet the fenders and again where the fenders meet the rest of the body (near the kick vents) with "Soudall Carbond 940FC".
I like the idea of the "extra rigidity" this would provide.
I'm not going to do the same where these bits meet the bib though. Because I want to still be able to fold the bib down (forwards) for access if/when I want.
The mastic I'll be using (Soudal Carbond) is grey (but other colours are available - "black" and "white" I think) and I'll see what it looks like in the joints. (How neatly it sits.) If necessary I may consider painting it with "sky blue" using an artists brush where it is visible.
The blurb for this product says "Forms a waterproof elastic seal which absorbs noise and vibrations. For the sealing of metal and fibreglass parts, in carbodies, containers, spoilers etc. Bla Bla Bla
I think I'll use a layer of Gorilla brand duct tape between the apron and the fender. The will allow them to bolt up tight, and not affect the height any significant amount. I plastered over the holes in the aprons for mounting the signal lamps, and will be drilling them out and countersinking to re-establish the inwardly-dimpled mounting holes. More on this tomorrow.
Here's a few more photos of the current situation:
I ordered in a new ignition switch cable from the local Toyota dealership, but it turned out to be the wrong one. The correct one has a solid green wire to 'G' - - and note the position of the terminal in reference to the mounting tab, comparing between the two switches. The one i received does not even have a 'G' designation on the back of the switch - instead there are two 'ST' positions. The main point though is that the rotational position of the wires in the switch is different. I'm making inquiries with Japan4X4 to see what they can find out.
I moved the Triple M tray into position for building the supports for it. It sits pretty high, and will need to go up another 2~3" yet. I like seeing it back on the truck though
Last one - this is how the dash is currently sitting. Sharp eyes might notice a difference from previous shots from this angle.
There are still a couple of wiring bugs to work out, namely the wiper motor and the light dimming rheostat. Also the glow seems to really heat up the coil fast (I needed to shut it off before risking frying the old ..040 model's wire coil that I popped in to see if it would work. Something is not quite right there. The stuff I ordered from Japan is in transit now, so I will be able to see what the new part looks like fairly soon.
The door and apron bodywork is at 90% and the fenders don't require much more attention. I'm hoping to finish those pieces and move on to the hood and roof panels this weekend.
