HJ47 Chassis Rust & Paint (1 Viewer)

[Ozzy75]

Hey all, long time lurker recently purchased two HJ47's for a steal and starting my resto to combine them into hopefully one but first to attack is the frame!
All in all pretty sound, years of good old Aussie red dust build up, surface rust but nothing to serious from what I can tell hitting it with a quick wire wheel. It looks to have been painted with a black of some sort in the past which may be an issue when trying to coat the frame again?

Looking over frame coatings and things have progressed a long way since early 2000's I've read through a ton of mud threads trying to grasp what's out there and what people have had success with...

KBS Coatings, POR-15, Rust Bullet or good old can of Satin black or an enamel painted on...

I'm leaning towards KBS but unfortunately being in very remote WA with no access at this point to a sand blaster just a good old wire wheel, elbow grease and pressure washer I'm wondering what route to go as I've heard KBS has issues unless the material is ultra clean ie sand blasted...

I've heard and watched many horror stories on POR-15 and moisture getting in behind it and just allowing the rust to go even crazier till you start to poke around at it years later...

I've had pretty good results in the past just removing as much rust as I can, rust converting it with Fertan applying a good rust guard primer & epoxy paint on other metals.

I was going to give it a good pressure wash & degrease, then begin with the wire wheel and removing what loose rust I can, have some light 120 grit flapper discs to clean it up best I can.

Has anyone had pretty good results with KBS having not sandblasted their chassis, I'm talking year later reviews not I painted it on and it looks great.... How's it actually held up, is there much rust popping back through etc?

Have attached some photo's of said chassis to be hopefully saved, obviously being in Australia hoping to get a product fairly easily obtainable over here vs a lot of the US products that never make their way over to us..

Much appreciate any feedback, tips, it's my first big resto and hopefully can make something of the two of these 47's to get one back on the road and loved once again!

Cheers
Trent

 

[Ozzy75]

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Ozzy75,

This probably won't endear to to at least a few, but POR-15 is crap. I bought all their hype, and the Internet BS, and I used it on a previous restoration project. NEVER AGAIN!

It's a lot of work to get a vehicle all the way down to the frame. Don't cheap-out on the paint once you've gone to all that trouble. I would recommend having the frame sandblasted, then using a high quality epoxy primer and then a high quality 2K urethane top coat. Yes, it will be more expensive but the overall quality will be markedly higher.

 

[beerfart]

I really don't see how you can help that much without sandblasting. It would be so worth it. The only other way I know of to get all the rust off [you really have to] is an angle grinder with a coarse flap disc and a mini belt sander to get into the tight areas. I have done this and it works pretty good, but very time consuming and nothing works like sand blasting to get every bit of rust. Also, the scotch brite, 6" or 7" if you can find them , clean and strip wheels on a high speed cordled drill are really badass, but really expensive. Dont try with a cordless drill, you need high RPM. Don't even waste your time with POR or rust reformers. The rust will come back. Like wasatch jay said, use epoxy primer and topcoat. The best topcoat I have used is Summit Racing epoxy frame paint. Use it over Summit epoxy primer. Not expensive. belt sander

 

[beerfart]

I really don't see how you can help that much without sandblasting. It would be so worth it. The only other way I know of to get all the rust off [you really have to] is an angle grinder with a coarse flap disc and a mini belt sander to get into the tight areas. I have done this and it works pretty good, but very time consuming and nothing works like sand blasting to get every bit of rust. Also, the scotch brite, 6" or 7" if you can find them , clean and strip wheels on a high speed corded drill are really badass, but really expensive. Dont try with a cordless drill, you need high RPM. Don't even waste your time with POR or rust reformers. The rust will come back. Like wasatch jay said, use epoxy primer and topcoat. The best topcoat I have used is Summit Racing epoxy frame paint. Use it over Summit epoxy primer. Not expensive.

belt sander

 

[beerfart]

belt sander

scotch brite

 

[Mr. Green]

I did the POR15 but read all the prep and got my frame blasted. It needs a rough surface to adhere or it will skin and peel. If done right including top coat I think it is dove. If blasting is not in the cards skip the POR15 and go for other paint.
Your frames just look like they need a wash!

 

[Ozzy75]

Ozzy75,

This probably won't endear to to at least a few, but POR-15 is crap. I bought all their hype, and the Internet BS, and I used it on a previous restoration project. NEVER AGAIN!

It's a lot of work to get a vehicle all the way down to the frame. Don't cheap-out on the paint once you've gone to all that trouble. I would recommend having the frame sandblasted, then using a high quality epoxy primer and then a high quality 2K urethane top coat. Yes, it will be more expensive but the overall quality will be markedly higher.

Good to know I'm thinking I might buy KBS and have sent them emails and gotten decent reply's and being a local aussie company that contact's you back makes me feel a little better so seems that's the way I might be headed!

cheers for the info on por15 i'd assumed the same just wanted to confirm!

 

[Ozzy75]

I did the POR15 but read all the prep and got my frame blasted. It needs a rough surface to adhere or it will skin and peel. If done right including top coat I think it is dove. If blasting is not in the cards skip the POR15 and go for other paint.
Your frames just look like they need a wash!

yeah they do need a good wash utes been sitting in a barn for last 15 years... slowly getting it back to just the frame then going to give it a good blast, prep and paint and build up from there!

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I've found the KBS gear to work well.

 

[South Texas 97]

There are adapters for your pressure washer to include sand, often called dustless blasting, this might be an easy way to at least get a good start on the frame. It uses quite a bit of sand, but might be an option for you. Bunch of YouTube university and Australian videos of folks doing this.

 

[macdaddy59]

Ok I sandblasted my frame than had it galvinized.

 

[Ozzy75]

Ahh I should of looked into this I just pressure washed it but didn't think to see if I could buy an adapter. .

 

[Ozzy75]

There are adapters for your pressure washer to include sand, often called dustless blasting, this might be an easy way to at least get a good start on the frame. It uses quite a bit of sand, but might be an option for you. Bunch of YouTube university and Australian videos of folks doing this.

well for $30 I've purchased one of these kits that seem to be all over amazon + ebay... don't have extreme high hopes for it but for $30 worth a crack..... I'll report back on how I go, I'll try some local dune sand which is in high abundance in WA and see if not I'll try pop 2hrs up the road to see if our "local" hardware sells some dry sand that will work.

There's another version looks like it has a better head on it for $130 so if this somewhat seems to work might fork out for a more expensive one but stay tuned in a few weeks for the trail

 

[frankenyota]

Ozzy75,

This probably won't endear to to at least a few, but POR-15 is crap. I bought all their hype, and the Internet BS, and I used it on a previous restoration project. NEVER AGAIN!

It's a lot of work to get a vehicle all the way down to the frame. Don't cheap-out on the paint once you've gone to all that trouble. I would recommend having the frame sandblasted, then using a high quality epoxy primer and then a high quality 2K urethane top coat. Yes, it will be more expensive but the overall quality will be markedly higher.

I will be doing this when i build my 80 chassis and if the HJ47 gets a make over it will get the same. I tried KBS years ago on a 83 Hilux chassis and it didn't seem to last as the rust came back. I followed the directions and l am very anal about these things. Clean it up and find a decent sandblaster, epoxy primer then 2K top coat.

 

[macdaddy59]

You can get the frame galvanized for $1000

 

[Ozzy75]

Well I decided to go KBS system it's ok but not what they crack it up to be you really need to get good coverage with it the kit for me barely lasted enough to do the chassis alone...

The top coats easy to not coat over the bottom coat being a black on black there's definitely bits I missed an only started to notice as the UV has effected and faded the bottom rust coat

I've got some rust already popping through on corners etc and it's only sat there for about 2 months

Tbh this VHT epoxy 1k paint I used on the suspension and diffs etc seems to withstand scratching, hits n chips better so far if I did it again I would of went 2k

Just my advice to anyone else thinking of doing it...