HJ47 12HT changed plan to FJ62 12HT

[koxfarm]

Started with a need to carry stuff arround and a dream for a diesel roar.. evolved in a plan.. its actioned now.

1984 HJ47 cab chassis 2H and 4speed box. The ultimate Aussie workhorse of the 80'. It has travelled 250K had two owners before me. The original owner had kept her in very good shape, probably wasn't a builders truck. The second (PO) is the typical disaster. Must had a drill for Christmas and wanted to add all the unnecessary gizmos that one can drill the s*** out of these beauties. Anyway.. I have about 20(!) unnecessary holes on the cab.. will deal with those later.

Pros: rust free cab, panels and chassis. Perfectly preserved vinyls, floor mat, seats and dash. Stock Denso a/c.

Cons: Stoneguard paint on roof (!). Headliner swapped for domestic floor carpet (dark gray). Doorcards cut for speakers, million holes on panels. Bad quality external overpaint. All
w/strips and seals are deteriorated.
Burnt fuse panel.(too much added headlights). Door locks f**d.
Bolted gusset brackets as oppose to chassis rivets. Ugly aftermarket aerial.
Ugly mirrors. Ugly back end.

In betweens: sound deadnered floor and roof.

 

[koxfarm]

As the title of this thread suggest my motto here is KISS:
seep it super simple

Plans is set for a daily driver. It is not a display quality restoration or some shiny makeover. I try to create a DD beast. Also I will move out of factory or stock standards and will combine parts oem and high quality aftermarket to create something very simple and very reliable for everyday use.


The main components are sourced.. for the body includes new springs and shockies, my steelie wheels, pickup tray bed, Styleside, long-bed, wellbody pickup tray
For the driveline a 12HT engine swap topped with a heavy duty H55F gearbox

I will try to simplify the controls and make most of them mechanical or even manual. Try to reduce unnecessary complications, electrical, vacuum operated crap, that are only added to make our life harder.
I will remove all unnecessary detail in attempt to create a very simple, and very reliable daily driver that can last for some half a million kilometers and provide power and strength, off and on the road.

Hope we'll enjoy this journey..

 

[Doctor do Little]

Nice one but why not keep the australian tray for carrying stuff?
In my opinion the tray would be the better choice for a daily driver... just my two cents
Cheers
Peter

 

[koxfarm]

Nice one but why not keep the australian tray for carrying stuff?
In my opinion the tray would be the better choice for a daily driver... just my two cents
Cheers
Peter

What do you mean by Australian tray?
That is just silly.. I guess it was like always been the Aussie farmers are tight ass to keep their hard earned coins, and that is the only reason they sell cab chassis in Australia. Its like the pto. A stock pto at the time was $3.5k and Thomas made a pto for $2k so most people had Thomas whinches on their cruisers. Its only economic consideration nothing else.
Any right minded 40' series lover would blindly choose the genuine tray before any after market one.
Also the panel tray bed is a million times better looking than that ugly lorry back end. I want a DD that means to drive it every day and it doesn't mean that I want to look like in a bricklayers lorry.
How can you advise such a bad idea. You want my truck to look ugly or that is your envious response only?

 

[koxfarm]

The sexiest long bed is sandblasted and primed now.. awaiting for a head bar and the rear valence from @Awl_TEQ .
Otherwise its in pretty good nick.
Again, these tray are made of some 14-15gauge sheet. (Approx >2mm). What else you need to carry here? It is rated for one tonne!! Again.. daily driver.. its like a tank armour. Forklift can load at back, no need for side opening.

 

[Doctor do Little]

Can`t see that my answer was envious !
Pretty sure I will never enter one of your threads again !

 

[koxfarm]

No hard feelings dolittle .have a few . you are welcome anyday and if you love my ugly tray you can have it for a styleside trade swap.

 

[The catskinner]

Koxfarm please do not take down the Australian farmer like that, that "silly" tray has been fitted to landcruisers in Australia since 1958 long before the factory bed was even thought of actually, because it's the most practical piece of equipment to be outfitted to a vehicle destined for the various and countless jobs over such a rugged country.
Yes it can be very hard to earn those dollars so of course Australian farmers like to hold on to there hard earned dollars because thats there lively hood in doing so as this year might be bountiful but the next 3 may be crippling drought, I'm sure there was many a "right minded 40 lover" farmer that wanted a factory bed but for 90% of uses they are 110% useless and the fact that he used his beloved 40 series to make a living won the deal for the aftermarket tray,
it was actually very smart of Toyota to offer the cab chassis in Australia as it saved a lot of farmers essential time and money in getting the more practical tray fitted
You have done a beautiful job restoring your troopy and I'm sure you will also do the same with this ute
but please be a bit more respectful to the Australian farmer because it was his trust in the landcruiser why we now have a plentiful supply of 40 series so that we can enjoy them as hobby and put them out to pasture so to speak after all there years as a workhorse

 

[koxfarm]

No worries mate, you reading the wrong message in my silver lining. The idea is dolittle advise was what I referred as silly and the farmer tray is ugly. Ugly means ugly not useless. Tight ass is tight ass regardless.
Fyi, I am partially of a God fearing farmer background and we laugh our tight ass-ness at the dinner table especially over the scotch-men's.
There is no disrespect here. Hard earned is respectful that is why God gave us two hands to work with, not to press one button on the apple phone.. than we had one finger enough. That what made us human beings when the creature stood up the back legs and the two hands got free to work with them. So agai, no need to fuel argument of disrespect when there is no disrespect. Matter fact, I write the Australian farmer with capital "A" inicial not like drdolittle whith small.
Theat alone shows the underlying of where respect lies.
Respectfully,

 

[The catskinner]

Good humour is fine but it may been lost a bit in translation sorry,
Moving on I look forward to your restoration as I enjoyed following your troopy one

 

[koxfarm]

The engine has 250k in the clock.. looks like that is real. This HJ62 is a cold spec. 24V version Japanese import. The PO imported in 2000 to Australia and only drove it randomly leaving all the seals drying out and pissing oil everywhere as the photos show. The first step was a hot high pressure wash. I have slso removed the power steering pump and the 24V starter/ac comp. these need to be converted anyway.

 

[koxfarm]

Given the fact that this engine wasnt operating regularly I need to refresh it.
That will include all seals, fuel supply and the turbo. I will also remove the head and see how the cylinder bore look like, id there is any sign of wear that needs fixing.
I suspect there will be heavy carbon fouling in the head due to cold weather use. Diesels in general love long runs, they don't like city life, especially cold and short drives. The burnt fuel has no chance to totally exit the engine and bad stuff builds up. Topped this with irregular maintenance and climate change and long shipping periods it is a recipe for disaster..

 

[koxfarm]

This engine never been opened.. all bolts and seals are still the genuine ones, and no sign of tampering. This servicing is at perfect timing..
The fuel pump, injectors and turbo are going to get rebuilt at the MTQ, they are one of the best specialist with equipment necessary for this procedure.
In the meantime I semi-strip the rest of the engine. Will go until the block and try to see into the crank and the cylinders.

 

[koxfarm]

The engine oil looks ok, nothing to worry there I guess.. and I think one of the major oil leak cause is found. The rear crank shaft seal was actually broken at the bottom seal area.. no wonder it was oil all over the place.
The PO said.. I had to top up the engine every second refuelling...

 

[koxfarm]

Next step, the head is going to get rebuilt, while I examine the bottom end.. I suspect some excessive wear on the thrust washers as I noticed some movement of the crank which I need to investigate further.

 

[koxfarm]

Oil pan is down, camshaft and gears out. Next step is taking the bottom end out but before measuring up the the cam lobes, journals. Read the oil clearences of the crank main bearings, thrustwashers, connecting rod bearings.
Once these done I can temove the crankshaft and see if it needs machining or only bearing change.
Then I'll move onto the pistons and rings and cylinders .. lots of fun

 

[Indestructible 47]

i can't believe i let this skip under the radar. another fav for mud. tops stuff.

 

[koxfarm]

i can't believe i let this skip under the radar. another fav for mud. tops stuff.

Probably the interstellar asteroid I read in the news

 

[koxfarm]

Fast forward... this button will be my engine shut off. So the idea is that I will not install back any of the vacuum lines of the engine. I dont need those unnecessary stuff.. its totally needless and its just another thing to go wrong. So no vacuums whatsoever. Since the venturi butterfly valve is controlled by a diaphragm and vacuum I will pull a trigger line from the dash to shut the valve manually..similarly to old days diesel agricultural machinery..
And that gave me an idea.. and I went to the back of the farm where are all the old machinery dumped. I found this perfect bakelite button say “pull to stop”
Exactly what I just wanted. And guess what the old Ferguson Tractor not only the same style button but the back is the same M5 threaded insert as the toyota controls ie. headlights etc.
Another thing that I cant wait to install.

 

[koxfarm]

The engine is thoroughly measured..
I need everything std (mains, conrod lowers, upper bushings, cam bearings pistons and rings)

The ones were in originally are TAIHO bearings and TP rings. These are the gear you’d find in the genuine Toyota part box for the $$$.

TAIHO Catalog numbers are:

M034A - Main bearings set

R034A - Conrod lower set

T034A - Thrust washers

C034A - Cam bearings

P049H - Conrod bushings


STD PISTON RING SET:

13011-68030 (oem)


TP catalog no.

35886

And alternatively:

NPR catalog no.

SDT10112ZZ

Pistons are aftermarket alfins (chinese) or TOYOTA/12HT-Taiwan Piston Manufacturer - TIK I am still scrutinise which one to go. Any idea about these tik’s?