Hinge rebuild service - maybe???

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I just tried a NAPA kit, on one hinge. It did work, but you lose alot of materail when you drill it out. I'm not feeling comfortable with this kit, for my doors, as they are quite abit heavier than a regular door.

So, if your machinist can make a bushing that doesn't require drilling out the hinge, I'm in. ( pending price )

I have two sets, minus one hinge, to play with. I'm stopping any further work until your guy has a look.
 
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How to the OD of these bushings compare to the NAPA kit pin diameter?



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That's not much @ .020 total, cut in half, @ .010. I'm no machinist, so I'd rather have him tell us. Some hinges will not be good canidates for rebushing, too worn. So, if he can just replace with a bronze bushing and no reaming, that would make me feel good.
 
PabloCruise said:
Why not just replace pin w/ 40 pin and use the plastic bushing for the 40 bushings?
No machining req'd...
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Pablo,

Please explain that again, to me. The plastic bushing ( from the 55 hinge? ) and I can't remember what the 40 bushing looked like, same as the 55?

I don't like the idea of the plastic, just wears out fast. I'm thinking we could find a bronze bushing the same size as a 55 or 40 and go from there.

This doesn't help anyone with worn out hinges. they need to be drilled and enlarged.
 
Ok, so that would be alittle better. I'm guessing here, but I would think most of the hinge problems are the plastic bushings and not a waddled out hinge. Yes or No??
 
I would like to try the 40 pin and bushings. I like Delancy's bronze ones, so if I could some information on them, I'll order some. I should give Beno a call and get some 40 stuff also.

I was assuming, you had to drill out the hinge for the 40 stuff, too.

Thanks Guys!
 
Ron,

I bought these from Mud and bought enough for three full Pigs.

I will send you as many as you need to explore options, reserving enough to send to midgaininc to continue his quest as well.

I don't have time and have to provide good hinges to Britt, soon. I don't want to pull off the 76s, but that's my trump card if one of y'all with the wherewithal to figure this out, don't before needed.

Anyhow, if you'll PM mailing address, I'll send enough if these for your endeavors, to try out.

My stash.



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Hey Chris - Just wanted to send along a thank you from all of us 55 moonbats for your efforts to help solve some of these issues. While I'm a fairly passive participant in this forum, I certainly appreciate your willingness to step up and get things done. Thanks,
-Scott

FYI,I did the Napa fix and it's worked fine...of course, I don't have 85 extra pounds of Lizard skin on my doors like Ron. :p (yes, that's my jealousy coming through)
 
Bucky'sRig said:
Hey Chris - Just wanted to send along a thank you from all of us 55 moonbats for your efforts to help solve some of these issues.
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I appreciate the kind words but they're undeserved.

I'm not but a hair on a gnat's ass in the grand scheme of things, since all I do is talk about the problem. It's the other folks that solve them and credit is due them.

Every village has an idiot, it takes a village to raise that idiot, some idiots are just more vocal that others.

I'm the vocal idiot.

"There are no new problems, only new audiences" -CDan
 
I haven't focused on this over the past week. I will try to stop by this week and see what can be done, professionally, by a machinist. Sorry for the delay.
 
Finally, made time to go the machine shop. Here is what we came up with. Stock pin is 8mm, no surprise there...stock hole is very close to 9.5 mm, and the plastic bushing is approx .75 mm. There are a few options to consider for a best fix.

1.). Use 8 mm pin and ream out hole to 11mm to accept a heavy duty bronze 932 flange bushing.
2.). Use 8mm pin and ream out hole to 10 mm to accept an extra strength metal backed sleeve bearing...no flange. These are steel with a bronze lining.
3.) use 8mm pin and plastic bushings for a 40.

My pins are worn very little and the knurles are still operational. I am open to reusing them. They are the hardest material in the hinge assembly. They are also the hardest to reproduce OEM style. You have to knurl them before they are hardened. The hardening shop near here has a $115 minimum, it would prob cost $1000 to have a 100 made OEM.

I have also sourced new springs. They are within 5/1000 ths of OEM in diameter, are flattened on one end, and are within 6/1000 ths the same length. I don't have a price yet, but I should soon.

Since I am looking for a standard procedure to apply to all hinges, I believe the best course of action is option 1. Sure a little more metal is being taken off, but you get a heavy duty flange bushing and the extra meat taken off would undoubtedly be applicable to very worn hinges. The only issue is the the knurl requirement for the pin, and I have not sourced an affordable option for its replacement. If we had 100 made, then hinges could be rebuilt to like new tolerances, and the new bushings would be readily available when the time came for their replacement. Since we are all responsible, we shouldn't run the pins in the ground. They should be able to last for 25 more years, with bushing changes....

What do you guys think?

Haven't gotten anywhere with the hood hinge overhaul, yet, Delancy.
 
Scrapdaddy, I just re-red #21. You may want to with option 2 if you are wanting to shave the least amount of material off. Plus the sleeve bushing would be tougher than the bronze bushing. You would have something to be proud of that could handle your door weight. Just a thought.
 
Midgainc,

I just went with the bronze 40 bushings and reuseing the 55 pins.

I'll still have to drill out the hinge, but not as much as the Napa kit. Your #2 bushing falls inbetween them.

40 bushing---OD is 9.6mm

Napa bushing ---OD is 10.1mm

Splitting hairs I guess.

Thanks for all the effort!
 
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