Again, it's 95*F and playing in the dunes, you guys can use whatever oil you want, personally I prefer to have my oil pressure gauge not sitting at the bottom of the scale.
High Mileage Oil? (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter dr335i
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Why do you say 10W30 is not even close to right? My owner's manual (1998) shows it as an acceptable alternative to 5W30, and that (10W30) is what I use here in the desert. It's seems quite suitable for Alabama as well.
PS - my recollection is that the owner's manual approved 10W30 on my 2000 LX and my 2006 4Runner.
Totally into this thread right now. Recently I had a 60 mile trip end abruptly because my truck died out of nowhere. Would restart after a short cool down and then shake like crazy before I shut it down. Well, after a trip to Lexus service, a new Catalytic converter, all new 02 sensors, and a timing belt install with A fresh clear bill of health from Lexus it died again after the same distance. This time I was able to let it set and cool for a few hours. (not wanting to deal with Lexus again
). Magically it started right up and drove it 60 miles back home. I say all this because the only thing i van figure out is its my oil pressure. Both times I noticed it was going lower and lower the more I tried to move the vehicle. Both instances were on hot days. In my mind I think the culprit is my 5w30 oil i changed to a month or two ago. I forked over a ton of cash for the previous repairs which i now think i never needed 
. What would you guys suggest i try. Im leaning towards the 5w-40 route thinking i need the higher viscosity. Thoughts?
). Magically it started right up and drove it 60 miles back home. I say all this because the only thing i van figure out is its my oil pressure. Both times I noticed it was going lower and lower the more I tried to move the vehicle. Both instances were on hot days. In my mind I think the culprit is my 5w30 oil i changed to a month or two ago. I forked over a ton of cash for the previous repairs which i now think i never needed . What would you guys suggest i try. Im leaning towards the 5w-40 route thinking i need the higher viscosity. Thoughts?
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Totally into this thread right now. Recently I had a 60 mile trip end abruptly because my truck died out of nowhere. Would restart after a short cool down and then shake like crazy before I shut it down. Well, after a trip to Lexus service, a new Catalytic converter, all new 02 sensors, and a timing belt install with A fresh clear bill of health from Lexus it died again after the same distance. This time I was able to let it set and cool for a few hours. (not wanting to deal with Lexus again
I use M1 0w-40 in my rigs here in South Ga.
The comment on the last report I got from Blackstone on my 2000 with 190k miles actually said “hopefully the outside of your vehicle looks as good as the inside”
If I lived in Wisconsin I might run a 30w, but it gets hot as Hades here and I prefer the 40.
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Totally into this thread right now. Recently I had a 60 mile trip end abruptly because my truck died out of nowhere. Would restart after a short cool down and then shake like crazy before I shut it down. Well, after a trip to Lexus service, a new Catalytic converter, all new 02 sensors, and a timing belt install with A fresh clear bill of health from Lexus it died again after the same distance. This time I was able to let it set and cool for a few hours. (not wanting to deal with Lexus again
That sounds like a bad crank sensor to me. When it gets heat soaked it acts up and eventually stops working, this is what tells the ECU when to send spark to the spark plugs.
Once it cools it works again. Eventually it won't work at all.
But as for the lower oil pressure, I know what I'd do...
Now to add some speculation...a motor oil that withstands the high heat better will carry away the heat and keep the internals running cooler, cooler enough to prevent the crank sensor from overheating? I do not know.
Thanks guys. I think i'm gonna drain and fill with 5w40 tonight . Ive gotta try something to fix the problem. I travel at least once a week out of town and have not had a problem until the last two weeks. Who the heck knows.
Keep us posted. Inquiring minds want to know.
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I'm sorry I was completley wrong about 10w-30 being wrong for the car, everyone just seems to be running 5-30 so I assumed that was it.
Regardless, I went out and bought the regular Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic and I'll be changing it tomorrow. I also hit up blackstone labs to send me a test kit and I'll be sending off some of the old oil with them. Depending on what comes back I'll decide on the 5w-40 Rotella or not. I would enjoy to have that oil pressure gauge pegged though!
Regardless, I went out and bought the regular Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic and I'll be changing it tomorrow. I also hit up blackstone labs to send me a test kit and I'll be sending off some of the old oil with them. Depending on what comes back I'll decide on the 5w-40 Rotella or not. I would enjoy to have that oil pressure gauge pegged though!
Change your oil pressure sender, right behind the oil filter if your gauge is showing low pressure. It’s only about 40 bucks for a quality unit. Intermotor PS336 is the brand I used. Laser etched Made in Japan right on the housing.
I really doubt your engine has a pressure issue, just an indication issue.
I changed mine and run a quality 5W30 full syn, hot idle is about 2 needle widths below the 3/4 mark on the high end of the scale. The old sender read about 3 needle widths off the low end, hot idle with same oil.
I really doubt your engine has a pressure issue, just an indication issue.
I changed mine and run a quality 5W30 full syn, hot idle is about 2 needle widths below the 3/4 mark on the high end of the scale. The old sender read about 3 needle widths off the low end, hot idle with same oil.
I’ll definitely give it a try. Went ahead and picked up some rotella 5w 40 on the way home. Didn’t get a filter since the M1 filter I have has less than 1000miles on it. Curious to see how this works out.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I think i'll stick with my SuperTech 15w-40 and 20w-50 oil. Never no, I may get 300-400K more miles using the least expensive oil.
That sir is nothing more than a viscosity modifier, meaning it thickens the oil, so it makes a w-30 weight into something way thicker. Not to mention that stuff sticks to everything and clogs things up.
I define oil stabalizer as snake oil, as long as you're using a good motor oil you do not need to add anything to it.
Here is the MSDS for Lucas Oil Stabalizer.
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Pure-Synthetic-Oil-Stabilizer.pdf
And if you read the description of the Lucas Oil Stabalizer on their site it "reduces oil consumption".
How does it do that? It makes the oil thicker. It raises the VI index of the motor oil, which means it raises the oils viscosity.
I like how you use $3/qt 20w-50 and no one says anything to you, I use full synthetic 5w-40 and all hell breaks loose. Lol
What is with all this second guessing Toyota engineers and proven test results? What is the number one function of an engine oil? To prevent wear!
It seems to me that way to much time is spent on Bob’s The Oil Guy, where nothing but old wives tales are spread rampant, and then taken for gospel.
Diesel Engine Oil belongs in Diesel engines. Not gasoline engines!
Anyone ever try to stay warm in mid winter with a Diesel engine idleing? It’s not going to happen!
A gasoline engine is way harder on an oil than a Diesel engine is by design, diesel is a lubricant, gasoline is a solvent.
Our engines are indirectly Liquid cooled, directly oil cooled, so what if it’s 120F OAT? The engine is still going to run at +-200F.
Pressure is resistance to flow.
Flow is cooling.
I would rather not have my oil pressure gauge pegged on high, and be running a high quality engine oil designed for my gasoline engine, that also does not degrade wear protection with higher tempature.
Then some of you add an oil additive to ruin the whole formulation, second guessing chemical engineers............
It’s your engine, do what you want..........
It seems to me that way to much time is spent on Bob’s The Oil Guy, where nothing but old wives tales are spread rampant, and then taken for gospel.
Diesel Engine Oil belongs in Diesel engines. Not gasoline engines!
Anyone ever try to stay warm in mid winter with a Diesel engine idleing? It’s not going to happen!
A gasoline engine is way harder on an oil than a Diesel engine is by design, diesel is a lubricant, gasoline is a solvent.
Our engines are indirectly Liquid cooled, directly oil cooled, so what if it’s 120F OAT? The engine is still going to run at +-200F.
Pressure is resistance to flow.
Flow is cooling.
I would rather not have my oil pressure gauge pegged on high, and be running a high quality engine oil designed for my gasoline engine, that also does not degrade wear protection with higher tempature.
Then some of you add an oil additive to ruin the whole formulation, second guessing chemical engineers............
It’s your engine, do what you want..........
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Thank you, I love a good debate. It makes me think and rethink my thinking...I think. Lol
Reason why 5w-30 is recommended? MPG and it is a one size fits most motor oil.
Why Are 5W-30 and 5W-20 Oils So Common? | YourMechanic Advice
Toyota engineers know what they're doing? Look up the class action lawsuit against Toyota for engine sludge.
I was testing driving a '02 Sienna, lease turn in, dealer serviced and it spun a bearing on the expressway at 70mph.
But then again, Toyota engineers know what they're doing.
This is a picture of a '02 Lexus 3.0.
As far as A Review of Mineral and Synthetic Base Oils - Bob is the Oil Guy is concearned, it is a group of experts in the field, hobbyists and novice persons discussion everything from motor oil and gear lube to motor fuels. Does that sound like any other forum you've ever been on?
As far as Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic Diesel Oil is concearned, you can use whatever you want. This is what I use. Been using it for 20yrs. I'm not changing now.
Think I’ll put whatever the book says in it, although a synthetic admittedly. And see y’all at a million miles...
