High 3rd gear, low 4th gear vibration (1 Viewer)

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It is hard to tell since we can't see both ends of the driveshaft at the same time. Take a look at post #6 in this thread. You will see that the sleeve yokes will be aligned, this is in phase. If they are not aligned then taking off one end and simply rotating it until they are in alignment before sliding the shaft back together.
 
It is hard to tell since we can't see both ends of the driveshaft at the same time. Take a look at post #6 in this thread. You will see that the sleeve yokes will be aligned, this is in phase. If they are not aligned then taking off one end and simply rotating it until they are in alignment before sliding the shaft back together.
All of the yokes appear to be aligned - the section before the transfer case and the one in the rear after the transfer case as well.
 
The rear shaft is out of phase. Casey E is wrong. I am not looking at the pics in the wrong order, I dont care what order they are in, if you cant tell the rear shaft is outa phase thats your problem
Now that I have a better idea of what I'm looking for, maybe a straight on shot of the shaft would be more helpful to everyone -

PXL_20230904_173258494.jpg
 
Wow, that's the first time I actually saw how short the 40 prop shaft is.
Fair enough. My bad. They looked out of phase to me, even with the right photos, but obviously I was wrong!

That's great news, but also sucks because you don't have a fix for your problem.

My grease gun is a bit tight in those joints too - it only fits if the joint is exactly in the right place, try rolling it forwards a few inches.

I add a photo of my 45 Prop shaft fwiw - tons of space underneath

20230212_162759.jpg
 
It appears to me that the rear differential / pinion is not pointing / aligned to the angle of the driveshaft / propeller shaft, a common issue due to a lift.
 
It appears to me that the rear differential / pinion is not pointing / aligned to the angle of the driveshaft / propeller shaft, a common issue due to a lift.
I believe I saw a diagram explaining this - basically both shafts need to be parallel so there isn't any wobbling if I recall correctly. Is this an instance where shims / correcting the castor angle would help?
 
It appears to me that the rear differential / pinion is not pointing / aligned to the angle of the driveshaft / propeller shaft, a common issue due to a lift.
Interesting point. You'd normally rotate the axle upwards would you?
How about the handbrake end - looks even worse to me.

Loading up the truck with a bit of weight in the back should help, right?
 
The shim would be recommended on the rear axle where it sits on the spring perches, tilting the differential to align to the driveshaft.
 
Here’s a picture of the driveshaft on my 40, I do not get much vibration when going up to 50 mph, above that it’s wind resistance and front axle noise that gets my attention. :lol:

IMG_0281.jpeg

The rear axle does not have any shims, and the differential is mostly horizontal in relation to the driveshaft.
 
Here’s a picture of the driveshaft on my 40, I do not get much vibration when going up to 50 mph, above that it’s wind resistance and front axle noise that gets my attention. :lol:

View attachment 3419844
The rear axle does not have any shims, and the differential is mostly horizontal in relation to the driveshaft.
Do you have similar lift do you think?
 
The drive shaft and pinion shouldn’t be in a perfect plane unless you’re running a double Cardan. When running one of those you point the differential directly at the transfer case. Since your running a stock setup you likely will need to adjust the pinion down not up. Unfortunately this is just a guess till you take off the shaft and check the piñon angle and transfer case angle, you want these to be within 2 degrees of each other.
 
The drive shaft and pinion shouldn’t be in a perfect plane unless you’re running a double Cardan. When running one of those you point the differential directly at the transfer case. Since your running a stock setup you likely will need to adjust the pinion down not up. Unfortunately this is just a guess till you take off the shaft and check the piñon angle and transfer case angle, you want these to be within 2 degrees of each other.
Agreed, the pinion looks angled up too high. And under load would go higher.
 
I'd say the noise starts around 35-40mph and stops around 45 and is clear higher than that (honestly too scared to take it over 55mph). Didn't think about the clutch disengaging and correlating to tires versus mechanical - the vibration goes away when the clutch is engaged for sure, so I'd say it's likely not the tires. I don't remember any clanking or clunking going into or out of gear, it seems to shift very smoothly...
Just re-reading this and checking that I understood correctly...
Did you mean that the vibration stops when you push down on the clutch (at say 40mph)?
 
Just re-reading this and checking that I understood correctly...
Did you mean that the vibration stops when you push down on the clutch (at say 40mph)?
Yessir, took it back out after lubing the zerks along the drive shaft and I think I'm gaslighting myself, the vibration seems a tiny bit better but it's still bad.

To answer your question though, yes if I push the clutch in, the vibrations go away like "the issue" is being disengaged.I can definitely tell when I accelerate I can "feel" it ramp up as the truck pulls thru the gear.
 
Yessir, took it back out after lubing the zerks along the drive shaft and I think I'm gaslighting myself, the vibration seems a tiny bit better but it's still bad.

To answer your question though, yes if I push the clutch in, the vibrations go away like "the issue" is being disengaged.I can definitely tell when I accelerate I can "feel" it ramp up as the truck pulls thru the gear.
Aha interesting. So you get it both on the gas and off the gas, and cruising at 40 (?), but not with the clutch pushed in.

I see a drop of fluid on the transfer drain plug - all your fluids are topped up I assume? (Gearbox, transfer, differentials).
 

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