Hi. New Member and a query about upgrading Stereo (1 Viewer)

[DanisMan]

Hi people long time lurker.

Straight up, I must thank the users of this forum for the amazing amount of information that I have sourced from here whilst gradually "restoring" my 2000 LX470. This is always the first and best place to come for information and advice.

I have reached the stage where I wish to upgrade the stereo. I have already done the speakers and am now musing about whether to replace or bypass the amp.
I have a soft spot for Pioneer equipment. I like the look of some of their BVH and AVH series.

I need help to narrow down the list.

Has anybody ever been able to integrate the existing CD player in such an installation?
Any recommendation on what to look at and what to avoid at all costs?

Thanks in advance.

 

[DanisMan]

Nobody?

 

[KillerBox]

I upgraded my 2001 LX stereo. I have posted pictures of it in multiple places on this site. My suggestion is to bypass the factory amp. It is just a matter of time before it goes out.

 

[RoughOne]

I upgraded my 2001 LX stereo. I have posted pictures of it in multiple places on this site. My suggestion is to bypass the factory amp. It is just a matter of time before it goes out.

I agree about the factory amp. I replaced it with an aftermarket 5 channel and it gives me good results.

 

[Pucker5]

Use the search brother. There’s a ton a awesome threads on this specific subject. A solid 2 din pioneer and 5 channel amp will give you keys to city for better sound

 

[Mike NXP]

Every speaker in my rig is blown except the tweeters. When I turn the bass up it sounds like a sasquatch is farting in my trunk, I kinda like it

 

[ramangain]

Every speaker in my rig is blown except the tweeters. When I turn the bass up it sounds like a sasquatch is farting in my trunk, I kinda like it

Are you ..... ok?

 

[BnvS]

Are you ..... ok?

Leave a man alone. Let him enjoy his sasquach farting in peace.

 

[Patassa]

Most of us that upgraded have deleted the factory NAV units so that we could have the latest tech in our 100's. I have a double din pioneer NEX unit from 2017 with android auto, apply play, added backup camera, 3 way active cross over network, time alignment, upgraded sub. etc.

 

[Pucker5]

Most of us that upgraded have deleted the factory NAV units so that we could have the latest tech in our 100's. I have a double din pioneer NEX unit from 2017 with android auto, apply play, added backup camera, 3 way active cross over network, time alignment, upgraded sub. etc.

What’s your speaker setup for your front active environment

 

[Patassa]

What’s your speaker setup for your front active environment

Scanspeak tweeters in the stock locations, had to do a little dremeling of the stock trim peice to fit them in there, then a peice of gorilla tape behind them to hold them, works a treat.

Scan-Speak Discovery R1904/613001 Autosound Tweeter

Scan-Speak Discovery R1904/613001 Autosound Tweeter

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

NVX 6.5" x series mids in the doors.

NVX XSP65 6.5-in X-Series Component Mid-Bass Drivers/Woofers

NVX XSP65 • 200 Watt 6.5" X-Series Component Mid-Bass Drivers/Woofers • Peak Power: 200W • RMS Power: 100W • Copper Shorting Sleeve Reduces Compression of Motor Structure • Mounting Depth: 2-15/16" • Ultra-Lightweight Milled Egyptian Papyrus Pulp Woofer Cone • 4 Ohms Impedance •...

www.sonicelectronix.com

Doors were stiffened with 1" dowel rods between inner and outer panels where ever I could put them, then did the full treatment of mass loaded vinyl, deadener and foam gasket to isolate against rattles.

I'm extremely happy with the sound quality I'm getting using stock locations without having to do a bunch of fabrication. Not going to win any SQ competitions but it's more than adequate for daily driving.

 

[Pucker5]

Scanspeak tweeters in the stock locations, had to do a little dremeling of the stock trim peice to fit them in there, then a peice of gorilla tape behind them to hold them, works a treat.

Scan-Speak Discovery R1904/613001 Autosound Tweeter

Scan-Speak Discovery R1904/613001 Autosound Tweeter

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

NVX 6.5" x series mids in the doors.

NVX XSP65 6.5-in X-Series Component Mid-Bass Drivers/Woofers

NVX XSP65 • 200 Watt 6.5" X-Series Component Mid-Bass Drivers/Woofers • Peak Power: 200W • RMS Power: 100W • Copper Shorting Sleeve Reduces Compression of Motor Structure • Mounting Depth: 2-15/16" • Ultra-Lightweight Milled Egyptian Papyrus Pulp Woofer Cone • 4 Ohms Impedance •...

www.sonicelectronix.com

Doors were stiffened with 1" dowel rods between inner and outer panels where ever I could put them, then did the full treatment of mass loaded vinyl, deadener and foam gasket to isolate against rattles.

I'm extremely happy with the sound quality I'm getting using stock locations without having to do a bunch of fabrication. Not going to win any SQ competitions but it's more than adequate for daily driving.

that dowel idea is good. I have heavy midbass drivers in my door for my active setup and I’m feedin em 150 watts but my Midbass loss is due to leakage. I can feel it coming through the window control area and window sills.

solid components for sure. I’m switching to un6.5’s this week to gain some loudness over heavy low frequency midbass frequencies

 

[Patassa]

that dowel idea is good. I have heavy midbass drivers in my door for my active setup and I’m feedin em 150 watts but my Midbass loss is due to leakage. I can feel it coming through the window control area and window sills.

solid components for sure. I’m switching to un6.5’s this week to gain some loudness over heavy low frequency midbass frequencies

Have you done the full door panel treatment? I had one door done so I installed the driver in both just to see if it was worth it and the bass difference between the doors was pretty drastic.

 

[Pucker5]

Have you done the full door panel treatment? I had one door done so I installed the driver in both just to see if it was worth it and the bass difference between the doors was pretty drastic.

I got 2k+ Of substage in the back so my appetite for midbass (100-400) isn’t that extreme Unless I’m listening to some afi
Or screamo. I can feel iT...it just leaks. I used yoga matting (Ccf) and dynamat combo inside the door cavity. I closed up the major holes with sheet metal and tapping screws. You can imagine the ire when the guy who replaced my passenger glass opened the panel to that. He was quite salty.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I got 2k+ Of substage in the back so my appetite for midbass (100-400) isn’t that extreme Unless I’m listening to some afi
Or screamo. I can feel iT...it just leaks. I used yoga matting (Ccf) and dynamat combo inside the door cavity. I closed up the major holes with sheet metal and tapping screws. You can imagine the ire when the guy who replaced my passenger glass opened the panel to that. He was quite salty.

Any idea how much volume would be needed in a sealed box to make a little sealed speaker box concept work? I know the typical components for car audio are made for open air, but seems like a box could be made to solve the issue of needing to seal up the door cavity (which is virtually impossible to get 100%).

 

[Pucker5]

Any idea how much volume would be needed in a sealed box to make a little sealed speaker box concept work? I know the typical components for car audio are made for open air, but seems like a box could be made to solve the issue of needing to seal up the door cavity (which is virtually impossible to get 100%).

the door is a monster cavity, fiberglass and resin would probably be the only way to do it unless you cut a big square around the circle cavity, put a open face box in there and the built an oversized face that the speaker mounted to, sealed the enclosure, and secured the mount to the door. Ugh, sounds painful.

 

[suprarx7nut]

the door is a monster cavity, fiberglass and resin would probably be the only way to do it unless you cut a big square around the circle cavity, put a open face box in there and the built an oversized face that the speaker mounted to, sealed the enclosure, and secured the mount to the door. Ugh, sounds painful.

But how much volume is required? Surely not the entire door.

 

[Pucker5]

Volume would be predicated by the specific speaker. You could essentially get a smaller motored woofer and maximize its output vs going with oversized motor/magnet drivers. Mine are huge and have destroyed the mdf mounting ring. Moving to hardwood in the next set

 

[DanisMan]

Use the search brother. There’s a ton a awesome threads on this specific subject. A solid 2 din pioneer and 5 channel amp will give you keys to city for better sound

Um.... I have used the search extensively. Reading all those awesome threads and learning from them encouraged me to join and ask those specific questions I posed here that weren't dealt with in those threads.


Just in case you missed them:

"Has anybody ever been able to integrate the existing CD player in such an installation?
Any recommendation on what to look at and what to avoid at all costs? "

I will add to the second question to remove any ambiguity. How about "Within the Pioneer range, is there any recommendation on what to look at and what to avoid at all costs?"

 

[Pucker5]

Avh521ex pioneer is good unit. Active capable solid eq and
4v preouts, very user friendly and high quality. No cheap feeding buttons. It has a CD player in it, your year model and accommodate a full depth unit.