HG Blown & Hydrolocked (1 Viewer)

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That pretty much covers everything. you should be good to go unless you want to have the transmission and transfer case gone through.
With 267k on it I'd be putting in a new/remanned trans. T-case seems like theres little point to that though, almost never hear of issues of any kind out of them even at very high miles.
 
I would recommend painting your engine with por 15 engine enamel kit. Buy a few extra foam brushes. I was really impressed with it when I did mine. It comes in 2 tiny cans but it spreads far

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What's not available; the trans, or the parts to rebuild it?
 
With 267k on it I'd be putting in a new/remanned trans. T-case seems like theres little point to that though, almost never hear of issues of any kind out of them even at very high miles.
So, honest question... do I really need to worry about the trans? Everything I’ve read about the A343F is that it’s about as bulletproof as they come. By all means correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t want to spend money for the sake of spending money - that’s what @Delta VS and @NLXTACY are for.
 
Ill be "that" guy...

Is it really worth rebuilding/replacing the 1FZ-FE and fitting a turbo? Just purely from a cost perspective its gonna add up, would it not be more economical to swap in a LS or diesel engine? (depending if you have the skills/time?).

As much as i love toyota and the 1FZ is a pretty good engine, they seem pretty expensive to rebuild and the turbo kits aren't all that cheap, and even after being turbo charged they're not all that quick/economical....?

Although i am in Australia where a mate just purchased a 1HDT cruiser in good condition for $4500 so parts are cheaper/easier to find here.
 
Is it really worth rebuilding/replacing the 1FZ-FE and fitting a turbo?

Yes

Okay, valid question. I’ve done a few LS swaps. They are great. Here is California, the only option is a Chevy LS3 ERod to pass emissions. The motor, harness and ECU is about $8k. Then I gotta figure out tranny options that mate to a transfer case. And then I gotta figure out fabrication and mounting. Then I gotta figure out exhaust. Then I gotta figure out wiring the existing vehicle systems. All is very doable, but all requires cash support. In the end, I’m probably $25k+ into a motor swap to get something as refined as the factory 1FZ with a turbo. Grated, I’ll have 400HP on tap, but it ain’t cheap.

I’m also very familiar with the Cummins R2.8. I worked with Cummings during the dev of this platform. It’s a fabulous option. If I had the time and the space to do the project myself, I’d likely go this route, but at the end of the day, I need to have this work done, and that requires a budget I just can’t justify right now.

Lastly, this is an overlanding and off-road rig. I take my family out in this truck, many times solo to remote areas. Sticking to known OEM systems brings me tremendous security. Even with a turbo, a well maintained 1FZ is probably the most durable and dependable drivetrain in existence.
 
NLA as of Spring '19 ;(
From Toyota OEM yes, but you can still get remanned.

So, honest question... do I really need to worry about the trans? Everything I’ve read about the A343F is that it’s about as bulletproof as they come. By all means correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t want to spend money for the sake of spending money - that’s what @Delta VS and @NLXTACY are for.
I would still call them bulletproof, but lots of reports of people having them starting to slip at over 300k. They are dead reliable but that doesn't mean they're limiltless. With your miles, IMO replacing it is a no brainer but thats just me.
 
From Toyota OEM yes, but you can still get remanned.

The Toyota backed part is the only NLA that matters in my books, but curious who your recommended reman source is that “you can still get.” Gracias.
 
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The Toyota backed part is the only NLA that matters in my books, but curious who your recommended reman source is that “you can still get.” Gracias.
Last time I checked there were several sources selling quality remanned. I certainly stand corrected though as I just did a brief search and came up empty handed. Pretty disappointing honestly. Should have snagged one when I was thinking about it just to have on the shelf.
 
I'm not a VW guy, but damn. And can't you swap the motor in one of those in like 15 minutes? Just get a backup and boom, reliable VW! :flipoff2:
 
If you are going to have the head redone, with those miles make sure to replace all your valves and have the guides checked properly, replace if needed which at least the exhaust guides will probably be necessary. Personally I'd use OEM guides, valves and springs. I would certainly replace the springs as well. Speaking from experience here you don't want a machine shop that does a production style, one size fits all valve job that only lasts 60K miles. To get it back to a condition that will last another 250K+ miles, you want someone that will take the time to measure and check everything.
 
Once you remove it and have the head check for warpage according to FSM it cannot be more than 5.9 thousands. If it's more than the spec you will eventually have issues with the cam journals. If money is an issue have the block decked and bored. If the head is warped more than the spec really nothing you can do about it other than sourcing used or new head. A new head bare has a list price of $1900.00. I've done a few and the next one I do I'm going to go with je Pistons forged. So both of them I have installed Cometic head gasket and ARP studs. If there is any Machining of any surface of the block or the cylinder head you must total it up and order a gasket that's thicker than the stock gasket. If you look on mud you'll find enough information other than what's been provided to you on this thread.
 
If you are going to have the head redone, with those miles make sure to replace all your valves and have the guides checked properly, replace if needed which at least the exhaust guides will probably be necessary. Personally I'd use OEM guides, valves and springs. I would certainly replace the springs as well. Speaking from experience here you don't want a machine shop that does a production style, one size fits all valve job that only lasts 60K miles. To get it back to a condition that will last another 250K+ miles, you want someone that will take the time to measure and check everything.
Absolutely yes to all of the above. I know I didn’t overheat the engine when the HG let go, so I’m optimistic the head will be fine. Will know more next week, but my plan is likely new short block and a full reconditioning if the head including new valves, seats, seals, etc.

What’s the school of thought on factory HG vs Cometic? Plan is definitely to go turbo, so this is my opportunity to do the prep work.
 
Cometic or any other maker of MLS gaskets would be a big upgrade from the Factory head gasket that is made of fibrous materials. Even if you were to overheat it it would not burn away like fibers would. But it takes a special kind of prepping to be able to use the multi-layer steel gasket MLS. If you're going to use a turbo in the future even more of a reason to rebuild your short Block and use forged pistons. The tolerance of the forged Pistons are a lot looser fitting because they expand at a greater rate than non Forged pistons. The forged pistons are going to be the most expensive part of your short block rebuild at around $1,000 for the set. You can still get away with spending Less on the short block then buying a new one even if you were to use the forged pistons.
 

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