HELP!! (1 Viewer)

[Crtroopy]

Been looking for a troopy for quite some time and finally pulled the trigger on a site unseen. I know, dumb move but it is what it is. I bought a LHD 2004 HZJ78L 1HZ R151F (according to the vehicle factory tag) with 400,000KM (at least that is what the dash says, lol) I plan on doing a complete fit-out with a pop-top and what not. In the attempt to do upgrades right the first time i am hoping I can gain so wisdom from the Gurus on this site. So here are some questions to start (please don't hate if I should know the answers)

1. Assume i need to rebuild the gearbox (hope that's the correct term) It will fall out of 1st sometimes if you have not started moving yet and when going into 4th it grinds a little no matter how you shift.
IF i am correct with the rebuild would you recommend any sort of upgrades to do at the time for the gearbox?

2. The steering wheel can be turned roughly from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock before it turns the wheels.
IS this normal or is that another rebuild?

3. The motor cranks over a little long (at least seems long to me about 3 seconds) before firing up and the battery is good. And when you shut it off it shakes rather hard at shut off.
IS that normal?

4. I will be putting lockers on would you do any regearing at that time? It will have a GVM upgrade with 2-3" lift on 33s and all the weight of the pop-top, interior fit-out, extra fuel cell and water cell, etc.. It will be more of a tourer than hardcore offroad but I want it as capable as possible.
Would you want any regearing based on that information? Any out upgrade?

Im sure i am going to have tons of questions but i will try my best to google i just feel more comfortable hearing directly for people in the know.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge shared. Pura Vida

 

[Rigster]

1. Assume i need to rebuild the gearbox (hope that's the correct term) It will fall out of 1st sometimes if you have not started moving yet and when going into 4th it grinds a little no matter how you shift.

Yes, you should rebuild the transmission. There are some companies that claim they have better thrust washers (these are a common weak point in these transmissions) and a stronger fully-splined 5th gear. Do some research, and choose a rebuild kit that suits you (mostly AUS transmission shops).

2. The steering wheel can be turned roughly from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock before it turns the wheels.

NO, that is WAY too much play. I would look at the entire steering system, but start with ball joints, tie rod ends, steering box and rectify.

The motor cranks over a little long (at least seems long to me about 3 seconds) before firing up and the battery is good. And when you shut it off it shakes rather hard at shut off.

Not too terrible, but could indicate a small air leak into the fuel system, or glow plugs that are not working. You live in a fairly warm climate, so it is possible that the glow plugs have never been serviced. Could also be tired injectors. More investigation is warranted.

I will be putting lockers on would you do any regearing at that time? It will have a GVM upgrade with 2-3" lift on 33s and all the weight of the pop-top, interior fit-out, extra fuel cell and water cell, etc.. It will be more of a tourer than hardcore offroad but I want it as capable as possible.

The R151F is geared relatively well for multiple purposes, and if you are going with 33's then I would leave the gearing as is. It will be more than capable for touring and medium duty off road use...

Congrats on the purchase, and I hope it does not contain any big surprises for you.

 

[Sundowner]

Two small additions:

Point 2: Do a dry steering test to start your checks, and look at everything as previously directed by @Rigster...but no matter what you find, replace one thing at a time and then check again. It takes a bit longer because of the extra dry tests, but you'll find every last little bit that's worn; with as much steering wheel play as you describe, there may well be multiple components interacting/failing in different ways, and their movements can and will change as parts are replaced and forces are transferred differently. Just be scientific in your approach and you'll get it sorted without spending unnecessary monies.

Point 4: Make gear changes after you're done with basically everything else. Up until that time, you're rolling the dice. Get it mostly built, get some wheel time with it, and pick your gearing once you've gotten it reasonably dialed-in and know - not suspect - what needs to be changed. Pre-planning is cool, but don't get too far ahead of yourself.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Nice Troopy and some great advice from @Rigster. Would add:

2. lift the front up on jack stands with the rear chocked, and have a helper turn steering from lock to lock while watching the linkage and pitman arm. Should be able to identify the problem pretty quick i.e. check for loose / worn tie rod ends. With the pitman - watch the steering shaft input into the gear box and output of pitman. If it isn't 1:1, the steering slop can be tightened via the adjuster ontop of the box. The procedure is outlined in the FSM which you can download on here for free.

Also a good time to do the 6 and 12 o'clock wiggle test to check bearing torque.

At 400k kms - with your intention to tour - would recommend replacing all TRE's unless you have records from previous owner. Can check control arm bushings in a vise at the same time.

Steering box can be rebuilt - if tightening the adjuster doesn't work out - with pitman puller, jaw-puller, circlip pliers and a vise. First times a pain - but there's a really helpful thread here in the 80 Series section. Same procedure although different part #'s. Parts are cheap, but the tools are not.

4. We really enjoyed overlanding in Costa for 6 weeks with a 1HD-T. Mud = turbo. Though I wouldn't recommend slapping a turbo on an engine @ 400k. Re-gearing won't help much in mud and 33's rob alot of 1HZ power (haha) imho. Been really happy with the 265's over 33's compromise for now, but plan on going the turbo/intercooler route soon.

Pura Vida!

Edit: ironically, blew the turbo wheeling mud linking Arenal to Montezuma. Our only breakdown on our trip. A winch and pul-pal are an awesome combo

 

[Sundowner]

2. lift the front up on jack stands with the rear chocked, and have a helper turn steering from lock to lock while watching the linkage and pitman arm.

Question: why pull the wheels off the ground?

 

[Crtroopy]

Ok so here is another question for the Guru's on this site.. Currently have 1hz with r151f (which is giving me some trouble) and I have been recommended to swap to an h55f instead of rebuilding the r151f. From my search seems like the right thing to do. Thoughts?

Also, going to 33" tires and putting on air lockers, would you consider regearing at the same time? If so, what ratio?

Thank you

 

[coldtaco]

Shouldn’t need to regear going to 33”, especially skinny tires. Supposedly there are improved pieces for the r151, which probably is a nicer transmission than the truck like h55

 

[Sundowner]

Short answer: nobody can make that call for you, because there's no "right" answer/decision. Gearing choices are individual, and tailored to the rig at hand.

That being said...

I don't think it's necessary , but I might consider a regear, seeing as you're already going to be inside the diffs. I had stock axle/trans/t-case gearing and average-weight 33's, and it was a touch too low for convenient highway use in the US; 60mph/100kmh was comfy, but any higher speed started to get a little bit too revvy for my taste. My solution was a 0.9 gear swap in the t-case, which spread the effective ratios nicely and gave me a better highway speed without compromising my low gears. You could effect similar results inside the axles, so it really just comes down to where you're driving and what kind of performance feels correct to you.

 

[Crtroopy]

Short answer: nobody can make that call for you, because there's no "right" answer/decision. Gearing choices are individual, and tailored to the rig at hand.

That being said...

I don't think it's necessary , but I might consider a regear, seeing as you're already going to be inside the diffs. I had stock axle/trans/t-case gearing and average-weight 33's, and it was a touch too low for convenient highway use in the US; 60mph/100kmh was comfy, but any higher speed started to get a little bit too revvy for my taste. My solution was a 0.9 gear swap in the t-case, which spread the effective ratios nicely and gave me a better highway speed without compromising my low gears. You could effect similar results inside the axles, so it really just comes down to where you're driving and what kind of performance feels correct to yo

Short answer: nobody can make that call for you, because there's no "right" answer/decision. Gearing choices are individual, and tailored to the rig at hand.

That being said...

I don't think it's necessary , but I might consider a regear, seeing as you're already going to be inside the diffs. I had stock axle/trans/t-case gearing and average-weight 33's, and it was a touch too low for convenient highway use in the US; 60mph/100kmh was comfy, but any higher speed started to get a little bit too revvy for my taste. My solution was a 0.9 gear swap in the t-case, which spread the effective ratios nicely and gave me a better highway speed without compromising my low gears. You could effect similar results inside the axles, so it really just comes down to where you're driving and what kind of performance feels correct to you.

Makes perfect sense to figure it out once it is built

 

[Crtroopy]

I promise i tried google, can somebody confirm that the 75 and 78 troop carriers have the same interior dimensions?

 

[AirheadNut]

Yes, I believe they are. Wheelbase is the same, and it is my understanding that the body has not changed from the firewall back.

 

[janyyc]

Ok so here is another question for the Guru's on this site.. Currently have 1hz with r151f (which is giving me some trouble) and I have been recommended to swap to an h55f instead of rebuilding the r151f. From my search seems like the right thing to do. Thoughts?

Also, going to 33" tires and putting on air lockers, would you consider regearing at the same time? If so, what ratio?

Thank you

It depends on many factors, but in certain countries it's cheaper to buy a new, stronger transmission than rebuild the old one (same can be said also if you don't trust the mechanics - best go with brand-new from the factory rather than rely upon an uncertain rebuild). The R151 is a "light duty" transmission. However, if properly maintained it should last you quite a while. So whichever way you go, you should be fine. As tempting as it can be, it isn't generally recommended to start in 2nd gear on the R151F. A relatively popular upgrade these days is to go with a H152 (heavy duty, higher gearing) but with a 1HZ that would probably not be advisable, it would dog the engine. If you were considering putting in a 1HD then the 152 could come into the equation.

I promise i tried google, can somebody confirm that the 75 and 78 troop carriers have the same interior dimensions?

Yes, they do. No significant interior changes between 75 & 78 until 2009 (when the new plastic dash was introduced, still not a major change).

 

[Crtroopy]

thanks for the replies i appreciate it.