Help with Transfer Case Diagnosis (1 Viewer)

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Scottb4857

Scottb4857

Joined
Oct 7, 2014
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Location
Columbia, SC
Hey all! I just acquired a 99 LC for practically nothing. The engine purrs like a kitten and has lots of power but there is a problem in the Transfer Case area and hoping someone can help point me in the right direction before I put it up on jacks and start taking it out.

Description - vehicle only engages when the center differential light is lit on the dashboard. Being new I'm not sure if that means it is locked or unlocked. With the the indicator light on the transmission engages easily and smoothly whether in High or Low gear. With the indicator light off when you shift into Drive or Reverse nothing happens.

Question: What is the most likely cause of this? Is it a failing/destroyed transfer case? Failing transfer case motor? Sensor or switch failure? All or none of the above?

I haven't yet pulled the drain plug on the transfer case to see the condition of the lubricant, but vehicle drove home 140 miles without a problem.

All help is appreciated!
 
Might be a bad front diff. A know weak link. If it fails, the vehicle will only move when the t-case is locked.
 
Could be a number of different things but I, based upon the limited info, would suspect the front diff #1. Check to be sure you have a front drive shaft too :D.

You should also, just to fully eliminate this as a potential cause (cheap to inspect too!): The outer CV splines where they engage to the outer hub flanges. If these are stripped, although highly unlikely, it would give you the same symptom as you described.
 
Thanks for the input guys - based on the replies put all four corners up on jacks to see what was happening. First, the front drive shaft is there and is connected:clap: - you never know.

With the center diff unlocked the front drive shaft was turning fairly fast and the rear was slowly spinning but stopped with the slightest pressure on the rear tires. With center locked both drive shafts turning at same speed. Neither front wheels or front axles moving at all, so I believe we have narrowed the culprit to the front differential.

First a stupid question - when the center diff is unlocked is the LC just front wheel drive - or is the center diff a LSD system or open differential so LC is full time 4wd?

Second - quick reading indicates this model year used a 2-pinion front differential. Is the standard fix to upgrade to the 4-pinion system offered in 2000 or what is the recommended fix since this one is obviously blown up?

What should I expect this to cost and any recommendations on knowledgeable LC shops in the Columbia SC or Charlotte NC markets?

Thanks again!
 
Scottb4857 said:
Thanks for the input guys - based on the replies put all four corners up on jacks to see what was happening. First, the front drive shaft is there and is connected:clap: - you never know.

With the center diff unlocked the front drive shaft was turning fairly fast and the rear was slowly spinning but stopped with the slightest pressure on the rear tires. With center locked both drive shafts turning at same speed. Neither front wheels or front axles moving at all, so I believe we have narrowed the culprit to the front differential.

First a stupid question - when the center diff is unlocked is the LC just front wheel drive - or is the center diff a LSD system or open differential so LC is full time 4wd? Basically a very limited slip system via the center differential. When you engage/lock the CDL (Center Differential Lock) you thereby sync/lock the speed the front and rear drive shafts rotate aka 4WD. Further locking the rear locker locks or engages both rear axles (left and right) so they turn at the same speed in any scenario.

Second - quick reading indicates this model year used a 2-pinion front differential. Is the standard fix to upgrade to the 4-pinion system offered in 2000 or what is the recommended fix since this one is obviously blown up? Pull it apart to determine if a new ring and pinion will be required. If you are lucky you'll only need the side gears and not a new ring and pinion. In either case it would behoove you to install an ARB air locker while you have it in repair mode. You can read a plethora of info about this very problem and the fixes within this forum. Even if you don't buy the compressor and do the full locker connect you'll be "insured" against similar front diff problems by installing the locker...

What should I expect this to cost and any recommendations on knowledgeable LC shops in the Columbia SC or Charlotte NC markets? If you can pull the front differential out of the vehicle and drop it off to a diff shop (get referrals!) you're probably looking at $200-$400 labor plus whatever parts are needed. If you take the rig in to a shop and have them remove and install the front diff you can probably figure about $1000 labor or possibly more...

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
 
^ it is...if you want to fully put the problem to bed
 
Might be the front splined hubs where the axle splines into. These can fail and cause your condition. I got my cruiser this way and only had to replace the right front shaft and the splined hub. My symptoms were exact. Mine is a 2000. Got the cruiser for 500 with 162 k on it. Now have 241 k on it and no problems with the front end since. Good luck
 
Again thanks for the input - which model years is the third member a direct bolt up/replacement for this LC. My understanding is the setup in the 98 & 99 was changed in 2000 at least internally. Considering the ARB as an upgrade - but also view this as a relatively low cost project for my 15 yr old son and I so if I can find a OE pull I might go that way.
 
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