Help with timing - DUI dizzy install on a 2f rebuild (1 Viewer)

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savannah georgia
Hey all, I’m currently in the process of installing a rebuilt 2f in my 76’, wondering what the steps are to install the HEI DUI dizzy that I already had, and correctly time the engine? Thanks, any help is appreciated!
 
You may already know this but it’s worth repeating and worth hearing it again. The most important thing to know is that the bottom end tip of the distributor shaft turns the oil pump. The blade shaped tip only goes into the pump slot about 5/16 of an inch. If the tip does not enter the slot, it’s possible for the engine to run without pumping oil and a catastrophe will occur.

I got my DUI from Performance Distributors and with their installation instructions, they warn about bottoming out which is when the end tip enters the oil pump slot as far as it can go before the base of the dizzy contacts the block. If this occurs and you tighten the dizzy down, excessive wear will occur. You can check for a gap with a piece of paper or your smallest feeler gauge. If there’s a gap of any kind, you may have to add a washer shaped shim or shims.

The basic process of dizzy installing has been discussed here many times. Search and read as many of those threads as you can find.

The tricky part when installing/stabbing the dizzy is when the dizzy gear engages the gear on the cam, the dizzy shaft rotates for the rest of the insertion. The slot in the pump must be in the correct position so the blade tip enters the slot. It may take several if not many tries to tweak the pump slot position just right.

Before you install the dizzy be sure to spin the pump with drill and a cut off screwdriver to prime the oil circuit. It’s best to have the valve cover off so you can see oil flowing up to the rocker assembly. The cam will need to be in the correct position for oil to flow up to there. Cam position heavily described in “THIS” thread but it's basically, rotate engine so number 1 piston is at BTDC.

For timing, rotate the engine to TDC on compression and not exhaust. And the dizzy rotor should end up pointing at, or just a tad before terminal # 1 on the dizzy cap.
You can have the dizzy sit in any position you like as long as long as you wind up with the rotor at or just before # 1 terminal at TDC compression.

I like this position but may want something different.
DUI 01.jpg
 
You may already know this but it’s worth repeating and worth hearing it again. The most important thing to know is that the bottom end tip of the distributor shaft turns the oil pump. The blade shaped tip only goes into the pump slot about 5/16 of an inch. If the tip does not enter the slot, it’s possible for the engine to run without pumping oil and a catastrophe will occur.

I got my DUI from Performance Distributors and with their installation instructions, they warn about bottoming out which is when the end tip enters the oil pump slot as far as it can go before the base of the dizzy contacts the block. If this occurs and you tighten the dizzy down, excessive wear will occur. You can check for a gap with a piece of paper or your smallest feeler gauge. If there’s a gap of any kind, you may have to add a washer shaped shim or shims.

The basic process of dizzy installing has been discussed here many times. Search and read as many of those threads as you can find.

The tricky part when installing/stabbing the dizzy is when the dizzy gear engages the gear on the cam, the dizzy shaft rotates for the rest of the insertion. The slot in the pump must be in the correct position so the blade tip enters the slot. It may take several if not many tries to tweak the pump slot position just right.

Before you install the dizzy be sure to spin the pump with drill and a cut off screwdriver to prime the oil circuit. It’s best to have the valve cover off so you can see oil flowing up to the rocker assembly. The cam will need to be in the correct position for oil to flow up to there. Cam position heavily described in “THIS” thread but it's basically, rotate engine so number 1 piston is at BTDC.

For timing, rotate the engine to TDC on compression and not exhaust. And the dizzy rotor should end up pointing at, or just a tad before terminal # 1 on the dizzy cap.
You can have the dizzy sit in any position you like as long as long as you wind up with the rotor at or just before # 1 terminal at TDC compression.

I like this position but may want something different.
View attachment 3196718
Thanks this is exactly what I needed. I called performance distributors and they are sending me the instructions. As for the crank position, is #1 BDC the only time when the oil hole is opened? Or is there another cylinder with a hole?
 
You can always check that oil has made it to the top of the engine by seeing oil make it to the rocker arms, if you don't have a working oil pressure on the dash.
Is there more than one spot at the rocker arms where I will see oil? Haven’t tried yet just wanted to know exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks
 
Yes, and no. It could be that the oil is cold. If I turn my oil pump with a drill motor, an SAE 10w-30 wasn't really visible a few months ago. However, I could see some, just nothing really positive or not because I didn't carefully observe it before the valve cover was off. That was t-shirt weather. When the motor is firing and the oil is warm, it is so messy, you might wish that you never checked.

Does the engine have an oil sender unit on the driver's side of the block? I wonder if a multimeter could do it? It probably just grounds out the voltage when it gets pressure, right?
 
Thanks this is exactly what I needed. I called performance distributors and they are sending me the instructions. As for the crank position, is #1 BDC the only time when the oil hole is opened? Or is there another cylinder with a hole?
# 1 piston BDC is the only time the oil holes in the cam # 3 journal line up with the holes in the block. There is two positions of the cam where they line up and those two positions are when the # 1 piston is at BDC either on compression or exhaust stroke. When you picture that, keep in mind the crank rotates twice for each cam rotation.

Is there more than one spot at the rocker arms where I will see oil?
There are two oil exit holes in each rocker arm. one feeds the valve stem and the other feeds the push rod. So yes, oil should come out of 24 holes total for all the rockers.
You may see some come out around the rocker bushing as there is an outlet hole in the rocker shaft at each rocker. It depends on how worn the shaft and rocker bushings are.
Here are the hole locations on a rocker.

rocker 01.jpg
 
Yes, and no. It could be that the oil is cold. If I turn my oil pump with a drill motor, an SAE 10w-30 wasn't really visible a few months ago. However, I could see some, just nothing really positive or not because I didn't carefully observe it before the valve cover was off. That was t-shirt weather. When the motor is firing and the oil is warm, it is so messy, you might wish that you never checked.

Does the engine have an oil sender unit on the driver's side of the block? I wonder if a multimeter could do it? It probably just grounds out the voltage when it gets pressure, right?
It has one on the oil filter bracket passenger side. Regardless I’ll definitely still give that a try.👍
 
# 1 piston BDC is the only time the oil holes in the cam # 3 journal line up with the holes in the block. There is two positions of the cam where they line up and those two positions are when the # 1 piston is at BDC either on compression or exhaust stroke. When you picture that, keep in mind the crank rotates twice for each cam rotation.


There are two oil exit holes in each rocker arm. one feeds the valve stem and the other feeds the push rod. So yes, oil should come out of 24 holes total for all the rockers.
You may see some come out around the rocker bushing as there is an outlet hole in the rocker shaft at each rocker. It depends on how worn the shaft and rocker bushings are.
Here are the hole locations on a rocker.

View attachment 3197132
Thanks this makes much more sense now 👍
 

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