help with pricing and advice!

[lurker]

Before I drain my wallet I wanted to ask these 2 questions first.

1) I have a constant shimmy while driving down the road (65mph) and it’s even more noticeable while coming to a stop. The shimmy isn’t earth shaking, but it is noticeable especially while breaking and turning at the same time. A better why to classify this is an annoyance. I have had my wheels balanced and rotated but that didn’t help at all.

About all that I’ve seen posted in the past where shock and/or spring replacement for this fault.

Am I on the right track here?

2) I’ve met a retired Toyota Master Technician that is going to do a compression check tomorrow ($40) also he quoted me an entire 1993 engine rebuild for $2500. I have 240,000 miles on my cruiser and it seems to run fine, but I’m moving away and thought; is this a once in a life time price for a engine rebuild? It seems some what high to me considering,

pistons $360
boring $100
bearings ??$200??
Seals ??$150??
Crank turning $100
Labor $1600 ($32 hour x 50 hours) < 50 hours is this correct?

Is this normally inline with what others have paid in the past, or is this a “once in a life time” deal?


Thanks

 

[landtank]

is he saying that they are related?

 

[firetruck41]

I think $4k has been mentioned for a good engine rebuild w/toyota parts (IIRC).

 

[Junk]

There is no way I would pay any "retired Toyota master spakl;fj" to touch my junk. Most of their master mechanics can not handle a rebuild, let alone some washed up old skunkie that will likely forget where he put your truck about 40 times during the work.

 

[firetruck41]

Before I drain my wallet I wanted to ask these 2 questions first.

1) I have a constant shimmy while driving down the road (65mph) and it’s even more noticeable while coming to a stop. The shimmy isn’t earth shaking, but it is noticeable especially while breaking and turning at the same time. A better why to classify this is an annoyance. I have had my wheels balanced and rotated but that didn’t help at all.

About all that I’ve seen posted in the past where shock and/or spring replacement for this fault.

Am I on the right track here?

Could be anything suspension related, but what kind of tires do you have? Have they been balanced on a Hunter GSP9700? I've had computerized balanced tires cause bad shimmies, but have been corrected by the GSP9700, after I spent $1000+ for (un-needed) new front suspension on my old BMW. Find a Hunter GSP-9700 near you!

 

[Beowulf]

lurker,

I'll let others comment on #2.

Regarding the shimmy: It could be bad or improperly installed wheel bearings. It could be one or more tyres that are not perfectly round. It could *still* be an imbalanced tyre/wheel combo. It could be a bad spindle. It could be worn suspension parts. It could be a driveline vibration [u-joint(s), drive shaft(s), or even pinion bearing(s)]

We can only give you suggestions until you give us more specifics, isolate the shimmy to something, and eliminate some of the possibilities.

-B-

 

[ppc]

If you talking about a stock height vehicle vibration issues aren't caused by springs or shocks. Tire balance issues are generally occur at ~70MPH. You may have a damaged tire with a slipped belt etc. but I would put more probability into bad or loose wheel bearings, defective ujoints, bent wheel, warped rotors frozen calipers. It may be a combination of more than one thing.

Rebuilding a motor that has no symptoms of wear or pending failure in my opinion is not wise. I would be looking at doing critical things like replacing water pump, thermostat, flush radiator, rebuild the front end including birfield service, tie rods, rear wheel bearings brakes all around. Change all the fluids, in engine, transmission, transfer case, differientials. If I had some oil usage, low compression etc then I would look at possible head work including a valve job.

 

[cruiserdan]

At 240k miles the engine is approaching overhaul time. But, as Phil asserts, it is not a good idea to condem it based only on miles traveled. A complete assessment of the ENTIRE vehicle needs to be done to address repairs/services that are required to keep it functioning in a dependable manner.

 

[bruiser]

#1 - Worn/Warped Rotors,
#2 - If it's running fine, put the money toward more toys!

 

[robbie]

you stated it was worse in corners and braking in corners. I would look at the wheel bearing. It sounds like this is the problem. In corners loose wheel bearing will shift the load cocking the wheel thus shifting the rotor out of the plan it need to be in for proper braking.
as for the cheep rebuild. I see nothing mention about the head. who will do this. Is he boring the engine himself? What parts is he using, these prices are to low for stock toyota piston and rings. Stock piston are about 45 / piece and ring set 173 these are cost prices. Bearing are well over 200 dollars cost from toyota. rebuild gasket set is cost about 200. 50 hours is a little long for flat rate but is what is needed to go through the engine in a little shop or home shop.
What is this guy warranty? 2day out the door or 1 year 12000 miles. It is hard to get any warranty work out of some one when you are far away.
You get what you pay for, keep this in mind. later robbie

 

[MrZumma]

There is no way I would pay any "retired Toyota master spakl;fj" to touch my junk. Most of their master mechanics can not handle a rebuild, let alone some washed up old skunkie that will likely forget where he put your truck about 40 times during the work.

Dang Junk... You don't have an opinion, do you?!?

I guess I have a lot to learn around here...

 

[landtoy80]

Do you feel the shimmy in the steering wheel? Or do you feel it from your seat?
If its from the front, you will feel the steering wheel shake.
If its from the rear, you will feel it in your seat.

 

[lurker]

Wow,

Thanks for all of the input guys.

I guess that I really didn’t give you guys enough of a description of my faults.

On the steering shimmy, only the steering wheel moves, I really don’t have a seat in the pants feel when this happens. The whole Cruiser floats a little on the suspension so this is probably dampening the effects. Also the Disc where checked for run-out a few weeks ago and they where well with-in specs. The tires are stock OEM with about ½ life left on them and they where balanced about 1 month ago, but it was a cheap-o computerized $20 balancing and rotation deal.

On to the engine, I had a compression check yesterday and every cylinder was between 180 to 185 psi, the FSM says 171 to 138? The mechanic said with 240,000 miles he was expecting to see 150 psi on a good engine with 240,000 miles, so hopefully this is a good thing.

As per the mechanics suggestion, “just drive it until you have a problem, it’ll probably last 500-600,000 miles at this rate”, keep your engine and transmission oil changed frequently. So I guess that I’ll follow that suggestion.

I want to thank you guys for your help on these matters.

 

[moralien]

I'll put my vote in for the D shafts.
How long has it been sice they were serviced?

 

[firetruck41]

Wow,

Thanks for all of the input guys.

I guess that I really didn’t give you guys enough of a description of my faults.

We just need to know what's wrong with your LC, really don't need to know all your faults, we'll figure those out soon enough (sorry couldn't resist )

 

[GXO]

I had the same thing and it was 80% tire balance and 20% bearing pre-load (loose bearings).

If it is very bad you had better pull the end cap and take a peek at your (bearing) nuts on both sides.

 

[lurker]

We just need to know what's wrong with your LC, really don't need to know all your faults, we'll figure those out soon enough (sorry couldn't resist )

OK, with 240,000 miles on her, my main fault was thinking that I had to have a worn out engine. I guess I have to readjust my thinking; this is not a POS American car!

"The land cruiser owner that cried wolf"