Help with OEM winch removal (1 Viewer)

[Boynepark76]

I’m new to fj40 world and hope I’m posting this in the right place… I am trying to remove an oem winch off a 1973 I picked up about a year ago. However, I’m struggling removing the winche’s front drive shaft from the hole in the frame’s front crossmember. I would like to hear from someone who has done this… b/c: do I try to remove the pillow block body (13) or come about it from the other end and remove the front u-joint (3) and pull the yoke (7)?

Here’s pics and manual reference. Thanks for any help or references to old threads

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think I would undo the u-joint and move the winch out of the way. Then remove the yoke off the splined shaft. Kroil every bolt and fitting you can get to and let it work for a few days with daily retreatment. Next tool in the basket will heat at least a propane torch and some sort impact wrench in the 1/2 drive range. Brass drift and big lead hammer can be very handy.

I'd love to have a good working PTO. Try not break stuff getting it off.

 

[76 PTO]

There is a shear pin in the yoke that will need to be removed. You may have to search for the small hole and punch it out.

 

[Malleus]

Congrats on the find!

The chassis service manual doesn't include a procedure for removing the drive system, which, in my experience means Toyota thought it woudl be self-evident. Unhelpful, I know.

I assume you're wanting to remove the entire winch, so I'd start at the transfer case and work forward. I'd do as Charlie suggested and try to get all the bolts/nuts I could see loose first, and then remove the rear of the two propeller shafts, then drop the hanger bearing and remove the front propeller shaft. The rest of the removal and disassembly instructions are in the manual.

LMK if you don't have one and I'll post them for you.

 

[Malleus]

If you're cheap, like me, you can make your own Kroil from ATF, acetone and paraffin wax. You can omit the wax, but it helps keep it in place, if you want to brush it on. Once the ATF gets into the metal pores, it'll be rust free for life.

 

[Malleus]

@Boynepark76 I just noticed both @Trollhole and @arcteryx have posted chassis manuals in the Resources section. Check them out if you don't have one.

 

[Boynepark76]

There is a shear pin in the yoke that will need to be removed. You may have to search for the small hole and punch it out.

Wow thanks guys! And … I saw the shear pin. In my case the shear pin had been replaced with a nail lol.

I bought this 1973 rig merely for the winch and gonna rebuild it and put it on one of my 4-spd rigs. I have another one, a 1965, that also has a winch on it but the Ramsey one. So I’m gonna have to do this twice. Thanks again!

 

[Engineer8000]

The front U joint can get stuck on the splines of the drive shaft inside the front cross member due to corrosion. Can be a sob to get loose. Use care because those aluminum bearing carriers are delicate and rare.

 

[B y r o n]

Click on this link, it will take you to the chassis manual. Go to chapter 9.

 

[73FJ40]

Rust builds up between the male and female splines resulting in what should be a slip fit becomes a frozen connection.

As recommended above, lots of rust dissolved penetrating fluid to break up the rust between the splines.

Be careful with the pillow block, the housing is aluminum and easy to damage.

 

[Tecagist]

I’m new to fj40 world and hope I’m posting this in the right place… I am trying to remove an oem winch off a 1973 I picked up about a year ago. However, I’m struggling removing the winche’s front drive shaft from the hole in the frame’s front crossmember. I would like to hear from someone who has done this… b/c: do I try to remove the pillow block body (13) or come about it from the other end and remove the front u-joint (3) and pull the yoke (7)?

Here’s pics and manual reference. Thanks for any help or references to old threads

This PTO Manual might help. I have a 74 with a PTO and had some struggles finding good documentation.

Rust builds up between the male and female splines resulting in what should be a slip fit becomes a frozen connection.

As recommended above, lots of rust dissolved penetrating fluid to break up the rust between the splines.

Be careful with the pillow block, the housing is aluminum and easy to damage.

View attachment 3832722

This manual may help. I have a 74 with a PTO winch and struggled to find good documentation.

 

[Tecagist]

This manual may help. I have a 74 with a PTO Winch and struggled to find good documentation.

 

[Boynepark76]

Congrats on the find!

The chassis service manual doesn't include a procedure for removing the drive system, which, in my experience means Toyota thought it woudl be self-evident. Unhelpful, I know.

I assume you're wanting to remove the entire winch, so I'd start at the transfer case and work forward. I'd do as Charlie suggested and try to get all the bolts/nuts I could see loose first, and then remove the rear of the two propeller shafts, then drop the hanger bearing and remove the front propeller shaft. The rest of the removal and disassembly instructions are in the manual.

LMK if you don't have one and I'll post them for you.

So guys thanks for all the help. Well I just picked up another winch today locally. The pillow box is seized and I’ve started taking it apart. The manual says there’s a snap ring holding the bearing but I’m not seeing it. Plus looking like can’t get the pillow box’s seal and retainer anymore ?

 

[73FJ40]

You now have more PTO winch parts than anyone here except for @Living in the Past

You may search 'Mud for workarounds, but OEM likely only has oil seals (if they haven't been discontinued)

 

[Engineer8000]

The old seals were just felts, if you can get the metal retainers off without destroying them they can be rebuilt. I ended up using some modified oil seals on mine. The bearings are available.

 

[Boynepark76]

The old seals were just felts, if you can get the metal retainers off without destroying them they can be rebuilt. I ended up using some modified oil seals on mine. The bearings are available.

Nice thx for the info. Old jeeps also had some felt seals too… and it looks like the snap ring is on the pillow and not on the shaft like I woulda thought lol

 

[Boynepark76]

Rust builds up between the male and female splines resulting in what should be a slip fit becomes a frozen connection.

As recommended above, lots of

Another question guys: my one oem winch system is original to a 1973 w/ 3-spd and I want to put it on one of my rigs—one has a 1976 4-spd&tc and the other has a 1982 fj60 4-spd&tc. Will the 1973 winch system fit either one or will I have to modify the length of the shaft? Anything else to be concerned about? Thanks a bunch

 

[charliemeyer007]

The 4 speed is a longer case, so PTO shaft might need to be longer. Drive gear and mounting might be different ( look up the part #'s to see if they changed.

 

[Engineer8000]

Drive shaft and shift linkage will be longer for a 4 speed.

 

[73FJ40]

Drive shaft and shift linkage will be longer for a 4 speed.

Sometimes the PTO gear is not included in the transfer case. I don't know if your 1976 came with one.

For the FJ60, I believe (@Living in the Past can confirm) the mounting flange on the transfer case is not compatible with the '73 PTO unit.