Help with OEM Roof Rack Removal of LX450 (7 Viewers)

[Jack Frost]

I need to remove the OEM rack on my LX450 so I can install a Free Runner rack. I've searched but I can't find any threads that go into detail about removing the OEM rack. I've seen some that detail issues with bolts that are rusted/stuck, etc. Is there a thread out there (or just some advice) on step-by-step instructions for removing the OEM rails? It sounds like this can be a bit of a B*tch, so I want to do it the right way from the beginning. Thanks in advance.

 

[superstan26]

Sounds pretty cut and dry. Most recommend spraying your bolts with a penetrating oil like kroil, or pb blaster for days prior to removal.

The general consensus is that the ribs come off most easily with the use of a heat gun, otherwise the double sided tape is usually left behind.

There are many ways to fill, plug, or cover your holes that will be personal preference common choices are; welding, epoxy, bolts/gaskets etc..

Once the removal is complete, and the holes are filled strip rust if any, and reseal.

Sounds like the work is more tedious than difficult, which makes me thankful that my 92' was purchased sans roof rack.

Good luck to ya! Dale

 

[Jack Frost]

Thanks Dale! We'll see what happens.

 

[swamp-thing]

x2 on the PB - and you never know, most of the bolts can be had with no drama. Good luck!

 

[Pin_Head]

Sounds pretty cut and dry.

Yes, the steps are obvious, so the only question is how difficult it will be. If the screws are rusted and the nutsert spins, then you get out the Sawsall. You can leave the strips but if you must remove them and they are difficult to remove you can use nylon monofilament line as a saw to help with the adhesive bond.

 

[Parsnip]

Thread jack: I'm keeping my factory rack. I am planning on using a detail brush and clear coat paint to paint a little pinstripe width seal around the base of the rack in hopes to prevent or slow water getting in.

Waste of time/materials?

 

[Jack Frost]

Thanks for the additional input. I'm leaving the strips. The Front Runner is low profile but not so low that the strips will be a problem and/or worth the trouble of removing them. I'll post some pics once the rack is installed. I went with the half rack versus the full and plan on mounting some lights on it at some point, too. Also adding an OME 2.5" lift and 33" tires this weekend. Then it's time for a road trip. Yep!

 

[western flyer]

Thread jack: I'm keeping my factory rack. I am planning on using a detail brush and clear coat paint to paint a little pinstripe width seal around the base of the rack in hopes to prevent or slow water getting in.

Waste of time/materials?

I permently removed the roof rack but kept the wind deflector. You need to "get in there": I suggest removing both the rack and deflector for inspection, cleaning up/repairing any rust, re-coating, and then only re-installing the rack or deflector after sealing the hardware rather well. See my link below for an example. I do not see much advantage of only painting around the base of rack (assuming I understand what you are suggesting).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/597910-wind-deflector-woes.html

 

[Parsnip]

I permently removed the roof rack but kept the wind deflector. You need to "get in there": I suggest removing both the rack and deflector for inspection, cleaning up/repairing any rust, re-coating, and then only re-installing the rack or deflector after sealing the hardware rather well. See my link below for an example. I do not see much advantage of only painting around the base of rack (assuming I understand what you are suggesting).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/597910-wind-deflector-woes.html

You understood me perfectly. I see now that half measures won't work. Thanks for the link and the write-up.

 

[western flyer]

You understood me perfectly. I see now that half measures won't work. Thanks for the link and the write-up.

Cool. Glad to help. Get in there. Rust sucks. The only rust on my 80 was under the rack and deflector.

I have had decent luck with Rust Bullet over the last decade on surface rust (you will likely need to topcoat it). Stainless hardware to fill the nutserts is likely a good choice (if you leave the nutserts); I have a SS hardware pic in the first link below (post #19).



Links:


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...ve-roof-rack-how-avoid-spinning-nutserts.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...e-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...k-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ack-patch.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ce-needed.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...s-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...roof-rack.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ervations.html