HELP with new radiator

[SEETHEWORLD349]

so ill be driving down to miami (from ohio) in about 10 days with my travel trailer on tow behind my 97 LC with 200k miles

last week I took the same set up to buckeye lake (30 min drive with no hills) and dint have any problems temp in the low 80s both days

went thru a scale on the way back and it read front LC 3200lb rear LC 3200lb and trailer 5040lb

the problem came last friday when I went to move the trailer from my warehouse to the back of my store (about 12 miles no hills 50 to 55 mph close to 2k rpm 102*F ) and my AC went out as i got into the interstate and came back on (the compressor) as i slowed down to exit

ive had this happen to other vehicles but not at 55 on a flat road at "low" RPM

my worry is driving to miami with no AC or even worst overheating etc...

so what is the right way to fix it??
new radiator, hoses, clutch, fan, extra fan? all of the above?
I dont mind spending $ as long as it gets fixed properly and first time around.

btw I get free labor


and thank you for reading

 

[doc W]

diagnosis treatment cure

Diagnosis first. Could be the radiator or fan clutch or the thermostat. Am only a one mechanic so maybe you check some of the thread on overheating.

Many mechanics have a bore scope to check if the radiator is plugged. Thermostat is an easy check and replace. Many threads on fan clutch, however as you were at speed when it overheated it is unlikely it's the fan clutch.

Good luck with it.

 

[baggar11]

Sounds like the symptoms my cruiser was showing. Ended up being the fan clutch. I was actually able to slowly put my finger on the fan, at idle, and stop it. Then spin it backwards. I rebuilt it and it's been solid ever since.

 

[jonheld]

however as you were at speed when it overheated it is unlikely it's the fan clutch.

False statement. Engine fan must provide negative pressure behind the radiator in order for air to flow through it. Otherwise the majority of air is going around the front.

 

[half k cruiser]

I would say 10 days is plenty of time to service your fan clutch, flush the cooling system and install new thermostat and radiator cap. Whenever possible get yourself and accurate temp gauge so you can tell whats really going on.

 

[Kernal]

If you don't have time to replace the fluid in your current fan clutch here's one option:

80 Series Modified Toyota Blue Fan Clutch | AJIK Overland Exchange

 

[94SRUNNER]

Cooling system overhaul time!

Lots of good info listed already here. Doing some searching and research, it is time well spent.

Where in Ohio are you?

 

[doc W]

airflow

False statement. Engine fan must provide negative pressure behind the radiator in order for air to flow through it. Otherwise the majority of air is going around the front.

I beg to differ as my own experience was that my 80 stayed cool on the river road (average speed 45-50) and on the interstate but would overheat at low speed going uphill. New fan clutch from AJK solved that issue.

There seems to be enough airflow at speed to cool things down. This may not apply in dessert heat. Temps were in the 80's when all this happened.

 

[jonheld]

It depends on how the clutch fails and the condition of the fluid.
I couldn't keep temps in line at 75 degree ambient at highway speeds. These trucks are as aerodynamic as a brick. If you don't have negative pressure behind the radiator, the majority of airflow is around the front of the vehicle.

 

[doc W]

jonheld is correct!

It depends on how the clutch fails and the condition of the fluid.
I couldn't keep temps in line at 75 degree ambient at highway speeds. These trucks are as aerodynamic as a brick. If you don't have negative pressure behind the radiator, the majority of airflow is around the front of the vehicle.

Good clarification. You are quite correct. If the fan clutch is not spinning there will not be enough airflow around the radiator. Clearly my fan clutch was still working somewhat.

 

[jbsax]

I am impatient and ordered the landtank clutch from ajik. Super fast service and my ac hasn't cut off since. FWIW mine had same symptoms. A/C would cut out at highway speeds and pulling hills in town. It's going to be 100+ tomorrow and I plan on taking the cruiser for a spin. Hopefully the problem is still solved.

 

[nodaksn3]

200k on the truck? It's new radiator time. You'll fumble around with a new fan clutch, thermostat, coolent (make sure you use distilled water!), hoses, etc., but w/o a new radiator nothing will fix it for certain. Save yourself some pain and invest the short money in a new one. And hoses and thermostat. Just my $.02 Ned

 

[SEETHEWORLD349]

200k on the truck? It's new radiator time. You'll fumble around with a new fan clutch, thermostat, coolent (make sure you use distilled water!), hoses, etc., but w/o a new radiator nothing will fix it for certain. Save yourself some pain and invest the short money in a new one. And hoses and thermostat. Just my $.02 Ned

yea I think this is the way to go NEW
radiator
cap
hoses
blue clutch


I keep reading about the 1993 and 1994 radiators being special
but i dont get why
info on why or why not

thanks

 

[nodaksn3]

The earlier radiators were all metal; later had plastic tanks. I just drove across country in my truck with no peoblems. Get a Koyo or stock, either one should do the job.

 

[hawaiicruz]

200k on the truck? It's new radiator time. You'll fumble around with a new fan clutch, thermostat, coolent (make sure you use distilled water!), hoses, etc., but w/o a new radiator nothing will fix it for certain. Save yourself some pain and invest the short money in a new one. And hoses and thermostat. Just my $.02 Ned

X2 new radiator