HELP with a Starting issue

[RileyD9]

I've had a 92 for a while and have had multiple starting issues, but never have been completely stranded. I've had the starter replaced and the battery replaced about a month ago. The truck turns over and has gas but doesn't ever quite get there. Sometimes a jump will get it started, but this week I have tried to jump it off multiple times and it still wont start. I think it could be a connectivity issue to the battery, because there are multiple things hooked into the battery. When I say multiple like 5 or six on the + and - terminals. Is there a way to join the wires and get better connection to the battery? or does this sound like an alternator problem?

 

[Malleus]

Yes. Maybe.

 

[ZackR]

How about a photo so we can see what kind of wiring nest you are dealing with.

- Has it always had an issue starting?
- Is there a difference in starting hot or cold?
- Do you have a multimeter to measure battery voltage?

 

[Malleus]

Pictures would help. You can make multiple connections and there are as many ways to it (properly) as there are needs to do it. One pet peeve of mine is trying to start a truck which has multiple electrical open connections (A/C running, radio on, headlights on, etc.) The starting circuit has enough to do just turning the starter over. Making it serve every other (electrical) purpose at the same time is like beating a dog.

Don't do it.

The reason for that diatribe was to say I'd recommend you quantify the current drain, for all the extras. There should be none during startup. If there is, you're just complicating the troubleshooting exercise, when (not if), it's needed.

If it was me, I'd pull off anything not OEM, and try tracing the circuit, with an EWD, and see where that gets you. If you find nothing, that's a good indication your addons are to blame.

 

[RileyD9]

It has had starting issue for a while, I had a problem about six months ago with the starter just clicking once (completely random), and this got fixed by replacing the starter.
there really isnt a difference between cold and hot. I dont have a voltmeter, but I can definitely tell a difference between when im jumping it off and when im not when it wont start.

 

[BILT4ME]

Switch to Mil-Spec battery terminals, install a Blue Sea fuse Block, and then set everything up to terminate at the fuse block instead of the battery. Fewer connections to deal with.

Also replace your battery cable to the starter. Not uncommon for those to have an end corrode inside the coating and lose connectivity.

 

[ZackR]

i'd recommend getting a basic multimeter and following @Malleus troubleshooting steps. Even the most basic multimeter will be helpful for not only this but future troubleshooting as well.

 

[RileyD9]

Pictures would help. You can make multiple connections and there are as many ways to it (properly) as there are needs to do it. One pet peeve of mine is trying to start a truck which has multiple electrical open connections (A/C running, radio on, headlights on, etc.) The starting circuit has enough to do just turning the starter over. Making it serve every other (electrical) purpose at the same time is like beating a dog.

Don't do it.

The reason for that diatribe was to say I'd recommend you quantify the current drain, for all the extras. There should be none during startup. If there is, you're just complicating the troubleshooting exercise, when (not if), it's needed.

If it was me, I'd pull off anything not OEM, and try tracing the circuit, with an EWD, and see where that gets you. If you find nothing, that's a good indication your addons are to blame.

Ill post some pictures, (I know that the starter isnt OEM but im not sure about anything else)

 

[RileyD9]

How about a photo so we can see what kind of wiring nest you are dealing with.

- Has it always had an issue starting?
- Is there a difference in starting hot or cold?
- Do you have a multimeter to measure battery voltage?

ill have the pic up in about an hour

 

[RileyD9]

 

[Malleus]

Not the busiest I've ever seen, but... not the ugliest either

 

[BILT4ME]

First thing I always say....clean your terminals and posts.

Your battery is too far discharged. Anything 12.5V and lower is bad. I would suspect a bad battery unless you know you have a drain on it.

I've had NEW batteries that were bad.

Have it checked.

 

[ZackR]

Not as bad as we might have expected... I'd recommend pulling back the electrical tape on the connections and see how things look. While the tape is off clean everything up as @BILT4ME suggested.

While you are cleaning it up plug the battery into a charger and see if it will take any more voltage. Once everything is clean and the battery is charged reconnect each of the accessory wires while the multimeter is connected to the battery and see if the voltage drops at all. This will allow you to track down any parasitic loads, if you find one let us know.

 

[RileyD9]

Got the battery replaced about a month ago... ill clean the terminals and jump it to see what its holding if I can get it to start. I have no clue how to see which wire is going to the drive shaft and which ones go to the radio.

 

[RileyD9]

Not as bad as we might have expected... I'd recommend pulling back the electrical tape on the connections and see how things look. While the tape is off clean everything up as @BILT4ME suggested.

While you are cleaning it up plug the battery into a charger and see if it will take any more voltage. Once everything is clean and the battery is charged reconnect each of the accessory wires while the multimeter is connected to the battery and see if the voltage drops at all. This will allow you to track down any parasitic loads, if you find one let us know.


View attachment 1544900

Ill do that and grt back to you guys! Thanks for the help

 

[ppc]

First suspected cause of problem would be the fusible links. The battery box has no protective grommets where the wires pass through and can damage the wiring. The wires going to the positive post which include the fusible links are in direct contact with the rough edge on the battery box. On the negative post there is a wire that goes above the battery box. That is a poor wiring practice and needs to be routed through the battery box like the other wires with the protection of a grommet.

Also I see no covers over the headlight adjustment indicators. Not your current problem but just indicates the PO din't take very good care of the vehicle.

 

[BILT4ME]

Also I see no covers over the headlight adjustment indicators. Not your current problem but just indicates the PO din't take very good care of the vehicle.

Nice catch there! He needs to get those covered and sealed or a heavy rain storm will fill the headlights with water.