Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

[KingOf_Pain]

Why use one high steer arm to raise the draglink when you still need a tierod below?
I would ream the knuckle holes from the top and mount the tierod on top of the knuckle holes and run a shorter drag link to the tierod, similarly to a stock configuration. This way you can match tierod/draglink length and angle. Otherwise you will suffer bad bump steer.

3/4 heim with 5/8 hole will work perfectly for trac bar.

 

[KingOf_Pain]

Caster???

Pinion angle is important, but even more important on a rig like yours is caster. Make sure you have +4-6 degree's or you could end up with the miserable death shakes.

 

[KingOf_Pain]

BTW, the script I got said FULL HYDRO???

New plan: Get another high steer arm for the drivers side, and mount them pointing backwards. Call HOWE and order up a double ended ram to go between them. Nothing in front to hit, no drag link, no tierod.

 

[Dusty]

Why use one high steer arm to raise the draglink when you still need a tierod below?
I would ream the knuckle holes from the top and mount the tierod on top of the knuckle holes and run a shorter drag link to the tierod, similarly to a stock configuration. This way you can match tierod/draglink length and angle. Otherwise you will suffer bad bump steer.

3/4 heim with 5/8 hole will work perfectly for trac bar.

I went with the crossover steering because I want durability. The pass side highsteer arm only has to recieve stress from the steering box and draglink as is but if if i run the assist ram and the tierod all to highsteer I risk overloading the 4 bolt knucle on this very heavy truck. I don't wont to spend more coin on fancy 5 bolt knuckles and other bling so I went this way. when is the last time you saw a busted crossover/hydro assist dana 60 steering?

so that axes the highsteer behind the axle idea too

float me a couple dedenbar pieces, and $200 worth of highsteer and its a deal (ie another $1000)

Caster???

Pinion angle is important, but even more important on a rig like yours is caster. Make sure you have +4-6 degree's or you could end up with the miserable death shakes.

the caster is set at about -4. the pinion is left wherever it is based on that caster and looks to point about 5' ish below the tcase output

BTW, the script I got said FULL HYDRO???

New plan: Get another high steer arm for the drivers side, and mount them pointing backwards. Call HOWE and order up a double ended ram to go between them. Nothing in front to hit, no drag link, no tierod.

you read the script well young jedi. In my haste i baited you in. but this pig wont disapoint and she will turn.

why dont you post up a couple pics of your machine(s) so as not to be percieved as a pansy man.

waiting for the fancy tre.
a few pics of the frame brackets I reinforced as suggested by the helpfull IH8MUD participants

 

[Dusty]

first day of school

 

[KingOf_Pain]

Mounting the double ended ram behind the front axle is a little exotic for a street legal rig. IMO, I would ditch the high steer arm and run the drag link to the tierod. Mount the tierod on top the knuckles. Stress is negligible for a ram assist setup on a D60.

I'm going to bed, but you can see me and my son driving the blue early Bronco buggy on Bald mountain a little over a week ago.

2nd Annual RockHopper Roundup 2008 Pics

P.S. Let me know when you are working on the beast and I would love to come over. Your Dad has my email, and my cell phone, i think.

 

[KingOf_Pain]

"young jedi"....misinformed, you are.

 

[KingOf_Pain]

And of course, my beast that started it all.
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I guess I exceeded my quota.

 

[Dusty]

need help. I have almost finished the rear axle side spring mounts but dont know how high to mount them off the axle. I am looking for 4" of lift so can someone tell me the ride height length of a 4" rear j spring? how about the lenth of a 6" slee?

 

[Dusty's Dad]

need help. I have almost finished the rear axle side spring mounts but dont know how high to mount them off the axle. I am looking for 4" of lift so can someone tell me the ride height length of a 4" rear j spring? how about the lenth of a 6" slee?

Lag screw a 4x4 (3.5") block to your lower mount, support the axle and lower the lower the body weight onto the axle. See what you get. Use long (4'+) 4X4's and tie them to uour control arms so the whole thing doesn't rotate/slip and imbed the spring in your dentures. I'll loan you a football mouthpiece just in case.
Let me know if you want to try this and I'll come help. The springs must not be able to slip out. Maybe chain them loosely to the axle??? AND leave something that can support the body weight... I'll bring over the big hydraulic bumper jack.

QUESTION FOR ANYONE: Are all tie rod ends / knuckles 7 degree taper?

 

[Mace]

no they aren't..

BTW, you will not know the compression on a spring till it has weight on it.

 

[slickrock]

Lag screw a 4x4 (3.5") block to your lower mount, support the axle and lower the lower the body weight onto the axle. See what you get. Use long (4'+) 4X4's and tie them to uour control arms so the whole thing doesn't rotate/slip and imbed the spring in your dentures. I'll loan you a football mouthpiece just in case.
Let me know if you want to try this and I'll come help. The springs must not be able to slip out. Maybe chain them loosely to the axle??? AND leave something that can support the body weight... I'll bring over the big hydraulic bumper jack.

QUESTION FOR ANYONE: Are all tie rod ends / knuckles 7 degree taper?

I'll help too. Just let me know when.

 

[Dusty]

i can easily shim up an extra inch higher with spring packers or buy a new set of slee springs between 4-6". But I need to get it close. I like the idea of the wood block to mock it up before I weld it up but would prefer to get it welded up close (on the too little lift side) the first time. easier to order new springs than do the block thing.

cant somebody measure the distance from the bottom of the rear j spring to the top of a j spring while it is on the truck just sitting in the driveway (unloaded-not lots of heavy junk in back)

help me here. if you have the slee 4" measurement ill take that

 

[Shane M]

Dusty, are you going to Moab with us? Bob's IH will go. Lance has to tow it up though. We worked till about 10:00 PM last night on the bug to get it ready for the race.
Build looks good. Smasher and Brutal are waiting....

 

[Dusty]

Dusty, are you going to Moab with us? Bob's IH will go. Lance has to tow it up though. We worked till about 10:00 PM last night on the bug to get it ready for the race.
Build looks good. Smasher and Brutal are waiting....

i would love to drive it down the street....moab will wait. goal is to have it ready for anual thanksgiving family reunion in st george utah.

sad to hear about the trashed tie rod on the bug. better luck on the next race. got pics?

finished the track bar bracket

 

[Dusty]

almost finished the rear spring perches

 

[Dusty]

cleaned it up. tied the track bar to the spring bucket. will paint the 60 and back in the 80 she goes where she will stay (hopefully)

 

[Dusty]

rear buckets almost done

i am starting on the front track bar. planning to leave the 80 series bushing at the frame side of track bar. I will bend the orriginal 80 track bar to shape (it is 1 3/16" solid stock) with the harbor freight bender (hopefully). At the axle side of the track bar I am using a 7/8" x 3/4 hole qa1 heim. I am planning on welding a 6" piece of 1/4" dom (with either 1/8" wall or 1/4" wall as shown) at the axle end of the track bar so I can use a threaded tube adapter. any suggestions?

 

[Dusty]

finished track bar

 

[Dusty]

tight fit
i think the drag link may work without a jog in it