Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Dana axle center sections take welds just fine.

Much different than a 14 bolt..
 
put lots of time into the upper link here. spent lots of time just finding a seating position where I could see my weld. kinda like twister except you keep getting burned as you play

Dustin, what about the inside of the 3rd link mounting point? It looks like you only welded the insde tab on one side. Could this be a casue for weakness? Is there a way you could weld both sides without cutting off the entire bracket?

(Oh and the 37s rock!)
 
Dustin, what about the inside of the 3rd link mounting point? It looks like you only welded the insde tab on one side. Could this be a casue for weakness? Is there a way you could weld both sides without cutting off the entire bracket?

(Oh and the 37s rock!)

no way to weld that seam dan. I could have welded the piece you speak of on both sides before I welded the entire bracket to the frame but then I would have been able to weld the bracket on only one side

I had to make a choice and mde the right one



And I hope I didn't do all that bracket work for nothin Mace. I thought nodular iron wasn't much stronger than cast. You think I could have welded those brachets on top the pumpkin directly to the case without all the truss stuff?
 
Well rams are usually welded directly to the pumpkins and they get a ton of stress. Even if it was more work for you, isn't the plan to do itthe first time correctly without worries of breakage? If that is the cae, overkill is better than "hopefully it will hold"
 
LOOK AT THOSE FRIGGIN WELDS!!!!!
zz22_yikes.gif
zz22_yikes.gif
zz22_yikes.gif
zz22_yikes.gif
zz22_yikes.gif
Nice work!
 
Why didn't you make the spring thread into the buckett?

you would not need a retainer then. And that thing is not coming apart any time soon..
 
Got enough molten metal?
I'm glad thats not my sink. WOW! But the pie! YUM!!!!
 
Why didn't you make the spring thread into the buckett?

you would not need a retainer then. And that thing is not coming apart any time soon..
hmmm thats a really good idea. and a threaded bucket would allow for a solid flat surface at the top of the retainer for the bump stop to contact instead of a screwed on floppyish retainer that cant take a bump stop hit well. only issue I see is that the spring isn't a consistent thread all the way to the end but is smashed together at the end. perhaps If I cut the last 2 inches off the spring....

Got enough molten metal?
I'm glad thats not my sink. WOW! But the pie! YUM!!!!

Lots of molten steel there. got carried away. for my next trick I will make an entire axle truss out of .035 wire lava
 
hmmm thats a really good idea. and a threaded bucket would allow for a solid flat surface at the top of the retainer for the bump stop to contact instead of a screwed on floppyish retainer that cant take a bump stop hit well. only issue I see is that the spring isn't a consistent thread all the way to the end but is smashed together at the end. perhaps If I cut the last 2 inches off the spring....

wouldn't need to, as long as the spring threads into the mount, it will hold itself in there
 
Dustin.....I'm missing several rolls of .035 MIG wire. You wouldn't know where they might be would you???

Now I don't want to get him in trouble, but I can say that I was using his welder Thursday night and it worked great ;)
 
He does have some nice new axles on his Heep so maybe for the time he may not ;)
 
sorry for the delay. ran into a bit of a wall in fitting the front 42's into the available space in the wheelwells

as shared earlier I was planning on trimming away some of the fender and other firewall structures at the rear of the front wheelwells so as to allow the 42's some room to move. by doing this I could keep the wheels out of the front bumper and radiator support. after mounting a hub and tire I mocked up this scenereo by flexing and turning the 42" irok within the wheelwell. even with trimming at the back of the wheelwell the tire still hits the radiator support in the front.

But it gets worse. the factory trackbar hits the tierod on the d60 if the axle is moved back like I wanted. So if I move the axle back I have to cut out the factory trackbar mount and move the trackbar back. Once I realized all this I decided to do the right thing.

I need to move the front d60 axle forward a couple inches of where the factory toyota axle was. This requires more work. I marked up my custom front bumper that I worked so hard to make as it will need to be generously cut to let the tires mover forward. then I hacked away at the radiator support. and inner fender. I carefully bent the condensor lines and moved the condensor almost to the framerail. It can be done. tonight I got the front axle into position. I spent over an hour making a frame to hold the blumb lines in place for mock up. I got one tab welded to the axle. Cut once-measure 22 times
I was looking at your rig again... Your front bumper is too nice to cut up much. Can you move the bumber forward a couple of inches instead??? With those fourty-something tires your approach angle will still be good. You might also gain some airflow for your intercooler and/or hide a winch inside the bumper.
 
D, you are going to NEED those retainers. If you plan on running big shocks 14" + those spring WILL fall out (still on J's, and 4" coils?). I am running 6" coils and had my springs fall out on several occasions while on the Rubicon and flexing the rig. it was more of an issue for me in the rear of the truck though. Looking forward to the final and another 80 on 40+ tires.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom