Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
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- Thread starter
- #203
the rear is not soft but I can cycle it about 4" up by myself without much straining. will see how long these rubicon express rubber joints hold up on the radius arms.
rear arms are 47.5" eye to eye
front arms are 37.5"
spread from lower link to upper link in the front 3 link will be approx 10" as it sets
suspension is mocked at ride height in pics. there are 5.5" before the radius arms hit the frame as it sits. I plan on 4" uptravel
rear arms are 47.5" eye to eye
front arms are 37.5"
spread from lower link to upper link in the front 3 link will be approx 10" as it sets
suspension is mocked at ride height in pics. there are 5.5" before the radius arms hit the frame as it sits. I plan on 4" uptravel
- Thread starter
- #206
evolution joint (frame side radius rear)
summit joint (all of front 3 link joints and mid joint on radius arm rear)
3/4 heim for comparison (will use these at axle side of track bar front and rear with rubber at the frame side)
rubicon express joints not shown (standard 2 5/8 width rubber joint tigged to 1 1/4 threaded shank) these are at axle side of radius arms in rear-all 4 joints
summit joint (all of front 3 link joints and mid joint on radius arm rear)
3/4 heim for comparison (will use these at axle side of track bar front and rear with rubber at the frame side)
rubicon express joints not shown (standard 2 5/8 width rubber joint tigged to 1 1/4 threaded shank) these are at axle side of radius arms in rear-all 4 joints
Why did you mount the rear lower frame side link mounts pointing backwards??
The whole idea of having a scalloped mount like that is to spread the "pushing" forces out along the frame. As it stands, your mount strength is dependant on the tab itself..
The whole idea of having a scalloped mount like that is to spread the "pushing" forces out along the frame. As it stands, your mount strength is dependant on the tab itself..
- Thread starter
- #208
not following you mace. where are you talking?
the frame side mount of the radius arm is backwards simply to allow the arm an extra couple inches.
- Thread starter
- #209
i do worry about that frame side radius mount as so much will be riding on it-no upper links to help out like on a 4 link. thats why I got the evo joints for these brackets. I will be gusseting these brackets to help out. and they come with pieces to weld over the bottom to box them in
6000 lbs bouncing aroung on this fat sexy hog im erecting
6000 lbs bouncing aroung on this fat sexy hog im erecting
Mace is right, that bracket extends and narrows to displace the torque on it over a larger area in compression, not tension. If you are bracing the back (towards front) in a similar fashion, then sounds good.
- Thread starter
- #211
if we are talking about the rear frame bracket where the radius arm attaches to the frame then no I wasn't planning on adding bracing toward the front of the truck. realy think they are a compromise in this backwards configuration? So by turing the front brackets (the frame mounts for the 3-link) backwards I am making them stronger? the brackets are already so overkill being bent and all. 1/4" thick
you see in the pic that the bracket is not centered on the frame but is almost halfway off the frame. I have to do this to keep the bracket away from the gas tank on the drivers side-so I can get a good weld.
So I will need to make a piece to fill in that gap caused by the overhang. it will need to go from the bracket edge that overhangs and is floating in space up to the frame.
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As long as you weld it strong enough you should be fine. But 1/4" is not that thick.. And the forces will be pulling against your welds, instead of pushing against them. Think of what happens when you try to make a climb and fail.. Your entire truck falls backwards on the rear axle. Pertty hard on 2 mounts IMHO..
If you plan on beating on this rig, I would redesign those mounts. If you are not going to treat it like the probverbial read headed step child, then it will most likely be just fine.
If you plan on beating on this rig, I would redesign those mounts. If you are not going to treat it like the probverbial read headed step child, then it will most likely be just fine.
It would be fine in the short term, and most flogging. But one good smack or good bind could tear the welds, wouldn't shear it all off, unless in a higher-speed situation. This probably wouldn't happen the first few runs, might not happen after several, but it's almost inevitable...at what I predict you're wheeling style would net.
- Thread starter
- #215
was starting to weld up the third link to the inside pass frame rail but the frame looks only about 3/32" thick on the sides. this frame seemed to work fine for sean "action jacksons" 3 link 80 build as is. there are 5 holes in the frame right where I wanted to weld and this is a bit discouraging. I went ahead and made a little 1/4" plate to beef up the spot. will weld to this instead
- Thread starter
- #219
turned my miller 175 up all the way and burned it hot as I could. this welding to cast has me worried so I boxed in this joint and welded both sides of everything keeping the pumpkin warm but not too hot. I would weld 2 inches then let it cool a bit then keep going till it was done. took about 1.5 hours to weld up the box and cast
