Help understanding brake caliper options..... (14 Viewers)

[BTLSHP]

If you want to rebuild anything yourself here, I did a very comprehensive write-up on everything here:

Full HZJ80 brake system rebuild - booster to rotor

In this thread, I'm going to give a comprehensive summary of the full brake system rebuild I just did on my HZJ80. I'm going to walk through replacing the master cylinder, all the soft lines, front rotors, splitting and fully rebuilding the calipers, and replacing and calibrating the LSPV. Some...

forum.ih8mud.com

That said, the price jonhold found for those reman calipers is straight up bonkers. Buy some of those and swap them in.

1) I love your city.
2) You Aussie's are sneaky keeping places like Margret River a secret.
3) In American speak you are a major league player, I am little league but trying.

I have read your entire post, parts of it a couple of times. Your bit about the flare wrench resonates w/me, I need to replace mine with something better. It was not up to the hardlines on my daughter's old Subaru.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Ourisman Toyota is selling OEM reman front calipers for $27.
47730-60060-84
47750-60060-84

OEM reman Rear calipers for $63.
47730-60070-84
47750-60070-84

At these prices, I'd pick up 2 sets and keep one on the shelf.

Don’t forget they charge core charges so kinda pricey if you want to keep your old ones. I need to price new ones if they have a discount on those to see the difference.

 

[Malleus]

Nice find. Will the front works for 96 LX450? Parts numbers for front caliper are slightly different.

yes

 

[Fj80oregon]

New caliper pricing

 

[Malleus]

I am going to collect the car shortly and disable the parking brake to see if we can't isolate the problem to the caliper.

Don't worry about mid year changes on the '94. The changes were made to the '95s. I have one.

 

[BTLSHP]

I am reading DivByZero's post and trying to decide between rebuilding what I have or getting the reman's. At the end of the day, I see something to be gained in terms of experience by doing it myself at least once, but it will cost me about a week's time in shipping.

 

[Malleus]

1) I love your city.
2) You Aussie's are sneaky keeping places like Margret River a secret.
3) In American speak you are a major league player, I am little league but trying.

I have read your entire post, parts of it a couple of times. Your bit about the flare wrench resonates w/me, I need to replace mine with something better. It was not up to the hardlines on my daughter's old Subaru.

I have yet to find a flare nut wrench that actually fits the Toyota brake line fittings. I have several, and they are all too loose.

I have found the a generous application of Superzilla on the fittings will loosen the rust (it doesn't work on anything else I've tried it on, but it works on brake line fittings) and, if absolutely necessary, this:

 

[Malleus]

I am reading DivByZero's post and trying to decide between rebuilding what I have or getting the reman's. At the end of the day, I see something to be gained in terms of experience by doing it myself at least once, but it will cost me about a week's time in shipping.

The only advantage in rebuilding calipers is money saved; if you're capable of rebuilding/resealing calipers, you won't learn anything you don't already know.

Oh, and maybe the opportunity to paint them, so they don't attract so much brake dust (it will wash off the painted calipers), but then you have to invest the time to clean them, and...

 

[BTLSHP]

Would it be obvious to any of you if this is a replacement Master Cylinder? The pedal feel driving was not bad and if I can reduce my project load a bit I would be happy. I know the service post-2017 and I have the prior records, so I will check this evening. The upper intake was removed and cleaned in July so I would call the lower intake more indicative of how the cast metal has aged. There is no sign of any active leak on the booster surface.

 

[jonheld]

Nice find. Will the front works for 96 LX450? Parts numbers for front caliper are slightly different.

From 93-97. All the same parts.

 

[BTLSHP]

Everything ordered, there was a part/price correction on the rear calipers. The ones I ordered were on backorder with no date. I am collecting rear pads and bits locally. I have new rear caliper pins and rubber, so I am hoping this is most of it. Is there a trick to pre-filling the calipers with fluid? I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but only the basic cap for Toyota which is iffy.

I also ordered front bearing bits.....

Order Details:
Order ID: 602276
Order Status: In Progress
Order Items:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
90430-10074​	Gasket​	$1.77​	8​	$14.16​
47750-60060-84​	Caliper Brake Remanufactured​	$86.74​	1​	$86.74​
47730-60060-84​	Caliper Brake Remanufactured​	$86.74​	1​	$86.74​
90240-06016​	Disc Brake Caliper Pin​	$2.63​	4​	$10.52​
47748-60040​	Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip​	$12.95​	2​	$25.90​
90564-09185​	Parking Brake Shim Kit​	$2.41​	1​	$2.41​
90564-09186​	Parking Brake Shim Kit​	$2.41​	1​	$2.41​
90213-07018​	Parking Brake C-Clip​	$1.41​	2​	$2.82​
47750-60070-84​	Caliper Brake Remanufactured​	$122.81​	1​	$122.81​
47730-60070-84​	Caliper Brake Remanufactured​	$122.81​	1​	$122.81​

Subtotal: $477.32​

Estimated Shipping to 20877 via Standard Shipping: $21.60​

Tax: $14.28​

Total: $513.21​

 

[jonheld]

Is there a trick to pre-filling the calipers with fluid?

Unnecessary. Just loosen the bleeder screw and the calipers will gravity fill. Remember to smear a bit of grease on the threads of the bleeders before installation, and keep the reservoir above the low line.
FWIW, I have always used the old school method to bleed brakes. Clear glass jar with some clear tubing and pump the pedal. Nothing fancy. I have never had an issue bleeding brakes on either my 91 or 97, and I have 2 sets of calipers that I swap fairly regularly. Can't really understand why some folks have issues with this.

 

[Malleus]

The provided Motive cap is crap. You need one of these:

the link has options for buying.

I cut off the old business end and crimped the hose on this one. Far better. Motive should not send their units out with the crap cap they include.

The only concern for use is that you MUST have a fender protector when using it; it will whip around when out of your hand and scratch your fender. The fender cover also keeps brake fluid dribbles off the paint, so not a totally unnecessary tool.

 

[Malleus]

The SST you need, which is the only one I've noticed isn't in the Toyota service manual, is a master cylinder bench bleed kit:

Every parts store has a version. I bought Napa's for no other reason than they are the closest store. Unfortunately, you need two Napa kits, because there aren't enough fittings for the job in one kit.

You screw them into the outlets in the master cylinder and run the hoses into the reservoir (not into a rag, in your hand, as instructed in the service manual).

The blue ones are metric. This allows you to "bench bleed" the master cylinder in place, and not a bench, which would be messy, in any case.

 

[BTLSHP]

Things arrived today, Ourisman is pretty quick. Order went in noon on Monday, parts here by 11:30 am Wednesday. That adapter for the Motive Power Bleeder looks great. The standard is hopeless. They are all on, bleed the system the old-fashioned way. There must still be a bit of air in the new front calipers as the pedal feel deteriorated after they went in. I did my work back to front and used the old-fashioned pedal bleed method.

I am guessing the LPSV has not been bleed in a long time -or ever. Brown the black, but it did not take long to clear. The system was bled four months ago when the lines were replaced by a local mechanic. A lot of debris came out of the calipers when I drained them prior to packing.

I used a bit over a quart of fluid.

 

[BTLSHP]

Things arrived today, Ourisman is pretty quick. Order went in noon on Monday, parts here by 11:30 am Wednesday. That adapter for the Motive Power Bleeder looks great. The standard is hopeless. They are all on, bleed the system the old-fashioned way. There must still be a bit of air in the new front calipers as the pedal feel deteriorated after they went in. I did my work back to front and used the old-fashioned pedal bleed method.

I am guessing the LPSV has not been bleed in a long time -or ever. Brown the black, but it did not take long to clear. The system was bled four months ago when the lines were replaced by a local mechanic. A lot of debris came out of the calipers when I drained them prior to packing.

I used a bit over a quart of fluid.
View attachment 3740591

Brakes feel good, no noise and I have a functional Parking brake as a bonus.

 

[calokie]

I went with akebono brake pads, that's what Scotty recommended (insert highly annoying voice here).

 

[BTLSHP]

I went with akebono brake pads, that's what Scotty recommended (insert highly annoying voice here).

That seems to be what the car has been serviced with in the past. That said I am tempted to put Toyota's in the rear. The system passes the Brake Booster test with flying colors. I still feel as if there must be some residual air in the system.

 

[calokie]

That seems to be what the car has been serviced with in the past. That said I am tempted to put Toyota's in the rear. The system passes the Brake Booster test with flying colors, engine I still feel as if there must be some residual air in the system.

try doing some high speed stops in loose conditions to activate your ABS then re-bleed, When I bled my system it took almost 2 compete bottles of brake fluid the large bottles, Load sensor lines had lots of air and nasty old fluid.

 

[BTLSHP]

try doing some high speed stops in loose conditions to activate your ABS then re-bleed, When I bled my system it took almost 2 compete bottles of brake fluid the large bottles, Load sensor lines had lots of air and nasty old fluid.

I did as you said and was shocked at the amount of air that came out of the RR & LPSV. I ran a total of 3 quarts through over the two bleeding sessions. I would like to think the system is free of air.