Reinstalling after a fluid drain, the drain plug wouldn't take 27 ft-lbs. Kept turning. Damn. I haven't dropped the pan down yet but I figure the threads on the pan stripped. Toyota doesn't make the part 35106-60100. Does anyone know if this is made after market, or has anyone had luck re-tapping? Welding on a new nut maybe? I figure there's a nut inside welded to the pan that broke but I haven't taken it off yet to confirm. Anyone have experience with this?
Help please --- Stripped AT drain pan/plug (1 Viewer)
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It’s not a nut but a bung.
You could drill and tap.
Finding even a used pan will be difficult because the trans don’t generally fail and people don’t generally separate the pan from the trans in a part out.
I have cut the bung out of oil pans and welded in a new piece of metal to fix. Same thing here with the trans pan basically.
Cheers
You could drill and tap.
Finding even a used pan will be difficult because the trans don’t generally fail and people don’t generally separate the pan from the trans in a part out.
I have cut the bung out of oil pans and welded in a new piece of metal to fix. Same thing here with the trans pan basically.
Cheers
I re-tapped mine with a thread chasing tap when I took it out last time because the threads stripped, it's back to normal. Might try that before drilling out to the next size up. I didn't remove the pan, just tapped it and then poured some ATF in without the plug in place and let it flush out, also ran a magnet around the inside of the hole to get the small amount of chips.
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27ft.lb? What transmission/year?
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
Fixing a spun bung (if that's the issue) was discussed many years ago. IIRC the consensus was that someone good with spot welding could fix it, but the pan needs to come off.
Too late for the OP, but IME key to not spinning the bung is to always use a new crush washer every time the plug is removed (that's what Toyota says) then hand tighten the drain plug using three fingers on the smallest 14mm wrench you have using only girly power. You can feel as the crush washer crushes then you'll hit a wall, stop tightening at that point. I've never used a torque wrench on that drain plug and have never had the drain plug loosen or fall out. FWIW.
Too late for the OP, but IME key to not spinning the bung is to always use a new crush washer every time the plug is removed (that's what Toyota says) then hand tighten the drain plug using three fingers on the smallest 14mm wrench you have using only girly power. You can feel as the crush washer crushes then you'll hit a wall, stop tightening at that point. I've never used a torque wrench on that drain plug and have never had the drain plug loosen or fall out. FWIW.
I bought a 4Runner with a stripped ATF drain plug and fixed it with a drill and tap. Look up/measure the size of the current plug. Then on a drill chart, you can determine what the drill size should be for the tap.
Before drilling to open the hole, it is worth trying to simply retap using same diameter/pitch.
Before drilling to open the hole, it is worth trying to simply retap using same diameter/pitch.
Not 27ft/lbs, but a spec sheet in the '94 FSM:
I'd pull the pan and see what's what. Look for a used pan and if you find one that's reasonable, go that route. If not, it shouldn't be too hard to fix by welding, tapping, or maybe a generic replacement bung is available.
WTF are in.-lbf?
Also, further proof that the 94 (and its transmission) is far superior.
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in-lbf are inch.pound force. There are torque wrenches that you set in inch.pound, smaller and for more delicate applications than ft.lb. The 'force' is usually dropped off, though it is implied.
And as Jon stated a few posts back, the drain plugs are easily done by hand without torque wrenches and just require some common sense/experience...
cheers,
george.
And as Jon stated a few posts back, the drain plugs are easily done by hand without torque wrenches and just require some common sense/experience...
cheers,
george.
Usually dropped for good reason, since 'f' is often used to denote 'feet'. Toyota got so stupid after 1995.
On a related note, anyone know where I can find a yard/ton torque wrench? I like to have full sets, and I have a 94 LC, which is clearly more robust so it only makes sense to get the more manly tools.
ppc
M Go Blue
You need this then:
Amazon product ASIN B000RT8ENE
Works great for installing the front crank pulley bolt!
Only a buck/ftlb, that's a bargain anywhere..... 
Note to self, put one on order.
Note to self, put one on order.
